Power Steering Pump Hose Routing

[Big T]

What is this big nut you speak of? The variable valve has a large nut on its base. Otherwise, the remaining nuts are on the two posts for the bracket to the block.

Do they sell new variable valves?

I will order Marty’s variable valve bypass to get this going. I hate becoming an expert on pulling and installing this pump.

Point to where on the pump is the the giant nut:

 

[56pan]

fluid will only come out of the booster return line when you press the pedal and release in spirts. it won't constantly flow like it does with the steering box. if the pump isn't pushing fluid, its ether the variable valve you transferred from the old pump, the pressure relief in the pump behind that large nut on the back of the pump, or this pump sat on the shelf dry too long and the steel vains rusted in the rotor. be ware on new and reman pumps from all of the auto parts stores. don't return your old pump yet. check the orifice size in the center of that large nut on your old pump and the new one. 99% of the time the new pump will have a smaller aka normal size orifice where your original pump has a larger one for increased flow made for systems with a booster. most have to swap this piece to the new pump along with the piston and spring behind it.

"the pressure relief in the pump behind that large nut on the back of the pump," That valve was bad on 3 different reman. pumps I had. 2 from autozone, one from Napa. It was machined wrong at whatever facility did the reman. Burrs in the bore and the piston would stick. The orig. pump on my '93, 6.5 C2500 had a leak at the shaft seal. I got the puller and seal, fixed it, and it's still good after 31 yrs. So many bad remans these days and any new parts with (spit) Dorman on them.

 

[Big T]

"the pressure relief in the pump behind that large nut on the back of the pump," That valve was bad on 3 different reman. pumps I had. 2 from autozone, one from Napa. It was machined wrong at whatever facility did the reman. Burrs in the bore and the piston would stick. The orig. pump on my '93, 6.5 C2500 had a leak at the shaft seal. I got the puller and seal, fixed it, and it's still good after 31 yrs. So many bad remans these days and any new parts with (spit) Dorman on them.

Mine is the original transferred to the new pump.

 

[56pan]

Mine is the original transferred to the new pump.

Which is probably what I should have done. But I was fighting mad at 3 reman. pumps' quality and decided to fix my old one.

 

[dbrannon79]

@Big T the nut I was referring to is what was in the place of the blue cap on the pic you posted. looks like you transferred it to the new pump. some MFG's are doing this method not providing new ones and informing customers to re-use the one in the old pumps. this is a good move in my book.

 

[Big T]

@Big T the nut I was referring to is what was in the place of the blue cap on the pic you posted. looks like you transferred it to the new pump. some MFG's are doing this method not providing new ones and informing customers to re-use the one in the old pumps. this is a good move in my book.

OK that is the sender + orifice. I am now wondering if the sender got broken during removal/install, as it can be rotated with the Big Nut torqued down.

Do they even sell those senders anymore?

 

[MrMarty51]

OK that is the sender + orifice. I am now wondering if the sender got broken during removal/install, as it can be rotated with the Big Nut torqued down.

Do they even sell those senders anymore?

They still are available, I have seen them before, just not taking the chance of having that thing fail at some critical moment.
Full on PS is the proper answer.

 

[dbrannon79]

behind that orifice that threads into the pump, there is a pressure relief and a spring. you'll most likely need a magnetic on a stick to get them out of the pump. remove the orifice (large nut) pull out the pressure relief and spring and inspect both. no need to pull the relief apart. just make sure they move in the hole and springs back in the new pump.

here is how they sit in order in the pump.


if you eliminate the valve, you will need a normal orifice and that little U shaped pipe

 

[Big T]

behind that orifice that threads into the pump, there is a pressure relief and a spring. you'll most likely need a magnetic on a stick to get them out of the pump. remove the orifice (large nut) pull out the pressure relief and spring and inspect both. no need to pull the relief apart. just make sure they move in the hole and springs back in the new pump.

here is how they sit in order in the pump.
View attachment 90664

if you eliminate the valve, you will need a normal orifice and that little U shaped pipe

The spring and plunger fell out of the old pump and I put them back with the plastic plug cover them.

Pump is coming out again today. The bypass is arriving tomorrow.

Yesterday we fished. Did 5 miles of walk/wade fishing on a side channel of the Bitterroot and my legs feel it. Friend got a nice rainbow on a streamer; I got about 8 or 9 tugs and missed them all.

 

[Big T]

OK 2 hours to get the power steering pump the first time; 40 minutes the second time.

 

[dbrannon79]

@Big T did your new pump come with the spring and relief valve that goes behind the variable assist sender? you mentioned putting the old ones back in the old pump and placing the plastic cap over them. if not, that is why it's not working. transfer those two parts into your new pump.

 

[Big T]

@Big T did your new pump come with the spring and relief valve that goes behind the variable assist sender? you mentioned putting the old ones back in the old pump and placing the plastic cap over them. if not, that is why it's not working. transfer those two parts into your new pump.

Yes it came with the spring and relief valve. When I unscrewed the variable assist sender for this picture, it pushed the sender out when the threads cleared.

 

[dbrannon79]

Pull that valve and spring out and post a pic of how it's oriented in the hole, it doesn't look quite right. is that a slot on the top of it in the pic? it should be flat and have a somewhat machine fit in the hole where the sender touches it. compare to your old pump too.

 

[Big T]

Pics of new vs old:

 

[Big T]

More pics:

There looks to be differences in widths on flat surfaces between the grooves. New head does have a slot in it.

 

[dbrannon79]

I have never seen a relief with a slot cut into the top. this is possibly why you have no pressure from the pump. the flat is supposed to seat on the face of the orifice that goes into the pump (variable valve in your case) I would swap in the relief and spring from your old pump into the new one and try. I highly doubt the variable valve just stops working, it has to allow some if not full line pressure when it goes inop.

 

[dbrannon79]

I just did some searching online, that pressure relief on top of the spring needs to have a flat surface. I can't find any info for one that has a slot cut in it. that has to be some mod or mistake that was made at the factory where the pump was built.

oh BTW when you get the U shape pipe in, you will need one of these older style pressure orifice nuts with the correct orifice size to replace the EVO piece in the pump. not sure if you ordered one.

 

[Big T]

I just did some searching online, that pressure relief on top of the spring needs to have a flat surface. I can't find any info for one that has a slot cut in it. that has to be some mod or mistake that was made at the factory where the pump was built.

oh BTW when you get the U shape pipe in, you will need one of these older style pressure orifice nuts with the correct orifice size to replace the EVO piece in the pump. not sure if you ordered one.

View attachment 90691

No I did not order one. Thought it came with it per the pictures.

 

[Big T]

I just did some searching online, that pressure relief on top of the spring needs to have a flat surface. I can't find any info for one that has a slot cut in it. that has to be some mod or mistake that was made at the factory where the pump was built.

oh BTW when you get the U shape pipe in, you will need one of these older style pressure orifice nuts with the correct orifice size to replace the EVO piece in the pump. not sure if you ordered one.

View attachment 90691

 

[Big T]

I have never seen a relief with a slot cut into the top. this is possibly why you have no pressure from the pump. the flat is supposed to seat on the face of the orifice that goes into the pump (variable valve in your case) I would swap in the relief and spring from your old pump into the new one and try. I highly doubt the variable valve just stops working, it has to allow some if not full line pressure when it goes inop.

The springs are the same. I am going with the bypass, new pump relief and spring. If that does not work, then I would consider swapping in old relief and spring. If it still does not work, it’s going back to NAPA and I will buy an AC Delco pump. By then I’ll have removal down to 30 minutes.