• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

P400 in the Burb install

No it's raw fuel coming out between the head and the exhaust manifold. But it runs great, I'm not saying 400 hp great but it runs pretty dang good. Just like when it was coming out of the # 2 cylinder which was the reason the motor had to be pulled to get the heads redone. But back then only the #2 was leaking much worse, but now I have multiple cylinders seeping fuel and running down the exhaust manifolds and dripping from where the exhaust manifolds connect to the cross over pipe.
 
Injectors are suspect.
Are there some that show no leaking you can swap with these and retest?

Killing fso, removing glows and cycle the engine a ton of times to push out any remaining before test is a good idea.
 
As you know Chris when I first installed this pump I had to advance it as far as it would physically go to the advanced position just to get it to run pretty much at all. Then I put my spare newly remaned .310 pump on it and it ran good but did the same thing as far as spitting unburnt sooty fuel between the heads and exhaust manifolds, but maybe not as bad. There is no warranty on this pump from Conastoga, I sent it to Verlin and I believe all he changed was the internal timing. What's weird is it doesn't show signs of being fuel rich, no black smoke out of the exhaust even when I blew a intercooler boot. When the engine is cold and I do a glow plug heat cycle and hit the key it starts on half a revolution of the engine and runs perfect. I think I'm going to put a new set of tires on it and keep running it like I stole it and see what happens. Maybe the rings need to get seated in we'll see. Do you think it needs more advanced timing?
 
Last edited:
Man, that sounds more like an injector body/fuel line leak than an internal engine issue the way you described it. Yeah, sucks on the tire termite issue. That's what sucks about tires that look perfectly good but have been sitting a long time, you can't see the internal dry rot until they warm up and blow out while driving.
 
Yea, I was trying to just find a good solenoid, I'm spending a bunch of $ on projects right now so I didn't want to spend the 300 on the power master right now. My starter works fine but
ak diesel driver is probably correct, they are all el cheapo china made crap.
 
No, I cant seem to be able to get it to fit properly with the way the wiring is near the starter. I've tried a couple of times but for some reason the wires don't seam to have enough length to work with the shield. Or if I do it sandwiches the wires between the block and the shield, and I'd rather have the wires away from the block and the exhaust manifold over the shield.
 
Do you have a local automotive electric shop that does rebuilds of starters and alternators, usually for commercial equipment/OTR trucks? If so, they can rebuild the starter solenoid and do so with heavier duty contacts, coils and actuator most of the time. I had mine rebuilt by our local jobber, Fred's Auto Electric, several years ago on the 94 work truck. It was like $40.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Do you have a local automotive electric shop that does rebuilds of starters and alternators, usually for commercial equipment/OTR trucks? If so, they can rebuild the starter solenoid and do so with heavier duty contacts, coils and actuator most of the time. I had mine rebuilt by our local jobber, Fred's Auto Electric, several years ago on the 94 work truck. It was like $40.
Click to expand...
Yea, I got the solenoid that I have from a place like that, my starter is strong. The solenoid didn't last long before I started having problems again with it.
 
for junk yard searching. lookup your starter part number on one of the auto parts sites, I know advanced auto will show other vehicles that use that same starter so that tid bit of info might be able to help widen your search for one. it would be nice if they made them where you can dismantle them and get to the inner contacts. 9 times out of 10 it's just the metal disc and bolt head inside the solenoid that have arc corrosion and need to be cleaned up for it to work properly again!


Me being the backyard shade tree DIY'er and "up to no good" "get ya no where" projects I get into, I would be inclined to use a drimel tool and pull it apart on an attempt to make it work again for a while . haha!
 
Years ago I had a 55 Chevy with a 396 and of course headers . Had a problem with heat soak . Older neighbor was happy to finish a beer and cut the top and bottoms off . Slipped the can over the solenoid and problem solved . Another thought is the older solenoids could be disassembled , remove and flip the big washer that connect the pos and starter terminals . The " contacts " get burned so there is not a good surface when pulled in . Similar to burned points .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top