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P400 in the Burb install

Boost reference for something, I am thinking if that line is headed towards turbo. N8in8or said wmi, and no dingy dingy bell...
Wait a minute...what turbo are you running? Not vvt right?
 
You guys are over thinking it, it's been posted earlier in the thread but I'm not going to make you go back and find it in this 31 page saga, I just gotta tell you, TURBO DRIVE PRESSURE DING DING DING!
 
Hey guys I'm about to get this thing on the road and I would like opinions on the proper break in procedure, especially how to break in the Total Seal rings. Everything has been done to keep this engine running cool so I'm not sure that I can get enough heat built up to seat the piston rings. Do I need to hook up a 8000 LB trailer and drag that around for a while? There are no hills around here to get to pull a long grade so that's not an option. I've never had to break in a diesel engine before and with all I've done and the $ I've dumped in this thing I'd like to get it broke in properly. Everyone opinion is appreciated.
 
Follow the new vehicle instructions.
It is the same as if it just rolled off the show room floor.
Cylinder temps will be just fine. Do not drive at a steady speed, vary RPMs but do not lug and do not red line.
Take it fairly easy until the bearings get somewhat work hardened.
Maybe fifty to a hundred miles. After that, on gas rigs, I would run them through some fairly harsh accel/decel modes. I was told by the old timer that would build flexibility into the rings. True or not ? 🤷‍♂️
 
Jaryd said:
Ive always heard to drive it like you stole it or at least hook up to a heavy load for a few miles
Click to expand...
Yup, I too have heard that. I dont know if it applies to diesel though.
I always give the gas rigs a ease in period of about 20 to 50 miles then pretty much start getting after it, up to about 50 real hard, instantly let off throttle, back up to about 50 and repeat that process four or five times then up to about 70 to 75 and back off throttle, repeat the processes four or five times at each step then by the time I’m done be hitting about a 100 MPH. Each time backing out of the throttle down to about 30 to 40 MPH between each accel.
 
Use standard oil with a heavy dose of zinc, pull the heavest load you can, and work the motor hard for at least 3-500 miles total... change oil over to synthetic and do it some more... break in a diesel the way it will be used, don't baby it...
 
Yup! To the above few posts. The only taking it easy it needs is done while you are getting the first 5 minutes of it to idle and dont let it spend much time at idle, and purge air properly.

Next pretend you just got your drivers license and the hot chick you like is watching you race the twin turbo l5p... beat it like a rented mule. No driving same speed for more than a few seconds if possible. Oil change at 500 miles, then 1,000. Then at 3,000 which is the end of conventional oil. Run your synthetic about 100 miles a d send a sample to the lab as your base line for perfect oil. Regardless of lab recommendations, i change the high end oil by 3,000 miles and send another sample. From there you can follow when the lab says time for oil changes.

I keep working the engine harder than normal and no consistent rpm through the first 500 miles. After that it can idle plenty. Still hard on it until the 1,000 mile mark.
 
This truck has never pulled a trailer heavy enough to need trailer brakes (two place snowmobile trailer, 21 ft go fast boat) and the engine that was replaced under warranty back in like 1997 was a 506 squirter block and it never pulled anything heavy and it had blow by and ate at least a quart of oil from Denver to Florida not towing anything. So I think I'm going to install a electric trailer brake controller and hook up a trailer with approximately 8k and use it during the break in period on this engine. I've talked to some Cummins mechanics and they say they hook up a 12 k trailer to a Cummins with 150 k on it that they just put injectors in and go pull the hell out of it to heat up the pistons and rings to get them seated in. Any comments on this?
 
It isn’t just get it hot. You don’t want heat, anything above 180°-200° does not help, it hurts.
The suburban- Fold down or remove the back seat and sand bag that sucker. Just make sure you secure the load well since you will be doing wot take offs.
Pickups- find a gravel sales yard near you...

Trailers work yes but I really don’t drive hard with trailers-so I like adding weight to vehicle.
My poor 69 Camaro got literal sand bags in the trunk. Helped out lifting the front tires off the ground! Haha
 
Since we are talking about heat, so I added a DELCO by VIN # coolant temp sensor to the port at the right rear #8 pipe thread sensor hole. And I ran the wire through the OEM harness up to the OEM sensor in the front left side of the head and I installed bullet type connector so I could use either sensor and I installed labels on the wires in case I was no longer above ground and someone else
was working on it.. It seams that both read the same temp. now maybe under hard use the RR sensor by the #8 CYL may read hotter but under empty load WOT runs I got the same temp readings.
 
I broke in my first rebuild by cutting down 4 large poplar trees and dragging them in the field ~70% load for ~3 hours with the hood up and cab heater full blast to keep temps down.
Dragging trees made for a very consistent load. Towing on the road varies engine load with hills and valleys. In a field you can creep in the right gear for the coolant temp and EGT and down shift if the temps start to get high. Plus you’re closer to home if there’s an issue. I usually was in 2 or 3 gear in 4-low.
 

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Well guys, I've been trying shake down and break in the the P400 in the Burb and here's where I'm at. I have a total of 55 miles on it and basically when I drive it I let it warm up and then try and do some wide open throttle pulls and try to watch the gauges. It's pretty hard to watch all 6 of the none OEM gauges, boost, egt, trans temp, drive pressure, IAT and fuel lift pump pressure while driving 60 to 80 MPH so I've been concentrating on the boost, EGT, drive pressure and the tailpipe via the RV mirror. I started with the timing @ 8* BTDC and then bumped the timing up 3 times so right now its set at 14* BTDC @ idle, it definitely reacted positively to advancing the timing. My last run I saw 20 lbs max boost, 22-25 lbs max drive pressure and 750-800 MAX EGT temps. It gives a little puff of black smoke when I mat the throttle from a stop but not excessive by any means so I'm thinking maybe I should richen up the boost fooler a bit. As usual I have some bad luck though, I am getting unburnt diesel fuel out probably 3 cylinders on both side of the engine. I don't think I have a compression issue because the engine starts on half a revolution and it runs great. Oh I figured I should add this when Verlin had my pump on the stand he said it was putting out 160 CCs of fuel, not sure at what RPM. The Lord was looking after me when my FR tire separated but didn't come apart and take out my fender, this is a 285/75/16 tire with only about 500 miles on it but 16 years old sitting in my garage. So until I find a new set of tires I can't drive it. Any opinions on the unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust is appreciated.
 
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