• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Our New house

MrMarty51 said:
Be careful too of what valves You use. I tried a pressure test with brass valves and even brand new ones leaked. Utility company man told me to remove the valves and plug and cap the pipe, then it will hold pressure. I did that and all was good.
Do not use 1/4 turn brass valves. Use 1/4 turn ball valves.
After inspection, then install the valves and after the gas is turned on, then use sudsy solution and check for leaks.
Click to expand...

Most of the time if a brass valve leaks it’s because it was tightened to much. The brass will stretch when the threads on the pipe ain’t cut deep enough. And @Stoney, brass 1/4 turn pull port ball valves are probably cheaper than gas cocks. Get some prices from a few plumbing/HVAC supply houses and compare to Home Depot or Lowes. You can buy over the counter at a commercial plumbing/HVAC house if the pipe and fittings are cheaper there.

ak diesel driver said:
Around here the gas company requires the contractors license number and name be posted on a special card attached to the gas line before they will turn it on.
Click to expand...

I don’t know what the rules are in New York but around here when I built my house I pulled my own permits and I didn’t have to have a business license. I just can’t sell my house for 2 years. Once I was done running the gas and did the pressure test the inspector looked at it, tagged it and I had to call the gas company to come set the meter. @Stoney did you pull your own permits. Might work the same way or close to the same way up there.




On the septic system. Might be worth checking to see if you have access to city sewer. It would be cheaper up front but cost more in the long run but gets you up and going sooner. Check on the regulations up there, might be that you can do the work as long as it’s inspected before the city/county ties it in
 
No city sewage in wellsburg ny..our town only has 403 people in it. And 1 stop sign..no stop light... seriously...but the good side is our code enforcement guy only works on Thursday and that is only between 1:00 and 4:00. So his opinion is if you're not doing it between 1:00 and 4:00 on Thursday he doesn't want to hear about it. .
 
So praise God we finally got Nat. Gas turned on..come to find out the gas company had wanted to put new gas lines from the road to the house for a few years and put in new outside meter...(old meter was in the basement)...so I put all the new gas pipes in the house and had them ran to the old meter before they came...when they moved the meter from the basement, the guy said "well, since we had to move the meter, we have to extend your gas line to reach it outside",...🤔...so I said how are you going to pressure test YOUR new lines, without hooking to my lines I installed?? Since pressure testing MY lines is my responsibility....he thought about it and said "I can't..I'll have to hook it to yours and pressure test the whole system..no other way to do it, cause gas company is responsible for the lines we ran into your house. If they leak it's our fault for not testing them."...30 minutes later we had gas on to the whole house!!!
Y'all can imagine how upset I was to NOT have to pay a gas tech to come test my lines.. 😆😂!!lol..
So now I have a gas cooking stove that we can actually use!!! Small thing,but big to us. And I just got a practically new furnace from a friend that installs them with a plenum already on it....traded him the two older ones I had in storage for it..he needed them for parts so good trade..the one he gave us had been installed at someones house but wasn't big enough to heat the place so they called him to come put bigger one in and told him to get rid of the old one..(he didn't install the first one for them) another company did..so once I run heat ducts we will have full heat in house!! No more space heaters!!! Thank God!!!
Then onto the seware system... I told y'all that I dug up the tank by hand and found that it was caved in..full of dirt...DAMN...thought we were screwed... BUT I realized something.. on the other side of the house, there was a bathroom that had been winterized when the place was closed up at forclosur..it's in part of the back addition ( that's getting tore off eventually..)... That part is alot further back than the tank I dug up and tank had no lines coming from that direction...sooooo. take that toilet out..dumped water down the drain.. listen.....heard waterfall sound echo back!!...tore floor up.(getting demoed any how)...3" drain from that bathroom he's streight out the back of house.. NOT towards the dug up tank!!! Cam down pipe...THERES another tank back there..YES..WERE SAVED..WILL POST PICS IN A BIT
 
Good deal on the gas and septic tank. Man if you lived closer I would give you all the duct, grills and insulation you needed to put it in and I would come help you do it. If your friend has access to spiral duct try and see if you can use it instead of snap lock. It’s so much stronger, don’t leak as bad and it’ll last.

Check your Pms
 
I've got about 5 pieces of the black flex duct..25' each..it's the stuff that stretch's out like a acordian..gotta have minimum of 5 take offs from the furnace, or 8 max...3 are direct shots through walls surrounding furnace, so there easy to do..then 1 has to be snaked through a empty crevice in the building to get over to the living room..tricky part is getting to the 2nd floor because there's 4 bedrooms up there in a square.. so I think I can run a chase up through the closet that's above the furnace on the 2nd floor, go all the way up to the attic, then split it to go to each room and come through the ceilings... This ain't really my game (heating).. but it should we..at least for this winter..I'm not trying to get to fancy right now, cause with everything that happened to us the past 6 months, I'm WAY behind..just need the place safe, and warm for now..I'll worry about making it pretty later then cash flow is better..
A good thing is, since gas company had to dig up the driveway in 2 parts ( pretty big holes) there coming back in spring and paying a company to redo the blacktop...gonna try to sucker them into doing the whole driveway lol..
 
Assuming the supply grills will have a 6”
connection where the flex hooks to them. Rule of thumb is 2-6”s from 8” duct. 4-6”s from 10” duct. 6-6”s from 12”duct and so on. 2-8”s from a 10” duct.....Supply grills only. Returns are a little different

How big are the upstairs bedrooms? Is there a bathroom upstairs?

If you are going to run one supply grill in each bedroom (depending on size) and there isn’t a bathroom upstairs and If you have enough room in the chase a 10” duct should be run to the second floor to catch the 4 grills. If there is a bathroom upstairs a 12” duct should be run in the chase.

Once it’s on the second floor, If you have to split it and run two branch lines to catch two rooms off of each line then a 8” needs to be run with 6” going to each room. If you have two supply grills in each bedroom then 12” duct should be run in the chase. You could get by with a 14” if there is a bathroom upstairs and you have to run two supply grills in each bedroom.

Make the return as big as possible. 16” flex to a 20”x 25” filter grill would be the ticket on the first floor if it will fit. I don’t know if you have enough room in the chase but a return in each room upstairs would help to keep the airflow moving and keep them warmer. If you can’t get a return upstairs then might need to cut the bottom of the doors a little to get some airflow when the doors are shut.

I’m not in New York but I’ll help you over the internet or phone as best as I can if you need it.
 
Last edited:
Jay, as long as it gets us through this winter I'll be happy..lol ...by spring I should be able to get a local grant to replace it any how...only reason I don't qualify yet is cause you have to own the house for over 1 year..which means March 20 we will qualify..
 
Well proved once again, don't let a guy have anything that ends with the word "saw" when he's bored.... reciprocate saw is my favorite, (unless I can use a demo saw which is rare)... We wanted the addition off the back of the house anyhow, so when a branch of the neighbors tree decided to fall on the roof of the addition in a storm, I figured well it's as good a time as any... Doesn't help that neighbor house has been empty for years, and nobody has a clue how to get ahold of the owner. Doubt there insured anyhow especially for act of nature...IMG_20210327_191126.jpgIMG_20210327_191126.jpgIMG_20210327_191126.jpgIMG_20210327_191100.jpgIMG_20210323_181354.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Still trying to figure out what that square hole in the concert was.. (could possibly be part of the bomb shelter that come to find out is under back of the house..still haven't opened that up.) This part in the pic has 1/2 " copper pipe going into it, and a drain pipe.. where the square hole is there was concrete poured to seal it off loosely.. one hit and that fell out leaving what you see in the pic.. whole thing has me confused
 
Stoney said:
Still trying to figure out what that square hole in the concert was.. (could possibly be part of the bomb shelter that come to find out is under back of the house..still haven't opened that up.) This part in the pic has 1/2 " copper pipe going into it, and a drain pipe.. where the square hole is there was concrete poured to seal it off loosely.. one hit and that fell out leaving what you see in the pic.. whole thing has me confused
Click to expand...
And concrete blocks are not designed to bear the load the way those are set in. They should have the flat side and holes verticle.
 
Decided we didn't like the shrubs in front of the house a couple weeks ago...so we cut them down...🤔. Didn't think this through..now there's stumps in front of the house...nope that don't look good...tried digging them out, but that was to much like work...sooooo, screw it hook the truck to them...couple hours and a helpful state trooper later and there out...( He blocked traffic so I could back in the road pulling them .) Gonna attach pics before and after.Decided we didn't like the shrubs in front of the house a couple weeks ago...so we cut them down...🤔. Didn't think this through..now there's stumps in front of the house...nope that don't look good...tried digging them out, but that was to much like work...sooooo, screw it hook the truck to them...couple hours and a helpful state trooper later and there out...( He blocked traffic so I could back in the road pulling them .) Gonna attach pics before and after.also changed the porch posts . And exposed the stone work..the first pic is from the listing when we bought the house. Shrubs had gone to hell since pic was takenScreenshot_20200213-113525~2.pngKIMG3946.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top