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Our New house

Gonna open that doorway up in spring , put exterior door there that leads into green house..not ideal but only place in yard we can put it.KIMG3379.JPG
 
And if by chance any of you have any old wades worth breakers laying around...I'd gladly buy them..
 
Funny. Just a couple days ago I wondered about progress on this...

If there are heavy / bulky utility items in the basement, that might explain the 'door'. I have a similar sort of deal in my house and am suspecting that it was to dig-out a new access for a fuel tank and then re-block it after the tank was installed.

Too bad you are not down my way. There is an outfit that takes-in all sorts of construction goodies (unused grout, old doors, new stuff that came out of a model home, etc...) and they flip the stuff at extremely reasonable prices. The outfit also has a second purpose of getting folks on the 'recent release' path an opportunity to gain work experience so that they are employable again.
 
On the breakers- I don’t have any but there is a lace in Vegas called House of Breakers that has a huge stock of outdated breakers. I would spend time looking for similar competition (I imagine there is places like that across the country) and ebay first- they are extremely pricey. But when you need two or three rare ones it can be cheaper than a new panel. Important searcing info: it is Wadsworth as one word.

Also- for anyone replacing an old panel- look into them selling it. A house i had 15 years ago had a Zinsco main panel and the main breaker and one piece of buss bar fried. I put in a new square d panel, but the place gave me $10 per old breaker and $10 for the rest of the panel. So the $120 offset the cost of the new panel some.
 
Had to scratch the idea of using electric baseboard heaters.. with the cost of the breakers that I would need and how astronomical the cost of 10/3 cable is now, there's just no way I can afford it. So I'm going ahead and putting into black gas pipe for natural gas and seeing if I can convince somebody to do a pressure test on it so the gas company will turn my gas on.. I already have a furnace and duct work that I can install they're used but still work.. and I have a gas stove I can put in.. only downside is I have a brand new electric hot water tank that I won't need. should be able to throw it on Craigslist for a couple hundred bucks and get some of my money back out of it. I just figured for all the breaker and cable it would have cost easily 5 or 6 hundred dollars. To put the gas pipe in and the valves for maybe a 100-150$... Plus whatever I have to pay to get a pressure test done which can't be that much. .. but as luck would have it I decided to investigate the sewer main today, keep in mind I bought the place as is and only paid nine grand for it so I can't b**** about very much...when I dug a hole in the ground where the main comes out of the house attached pictures show what I find... I'm not positive but I think the tank is caved in. But I've never seen a metal sewer tank. If you look closely you can see where the busted pipe comes in to what looks like what's left of the side wall of a round tank.
 
Good times
 

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I don't think the whole thing is caved..(just a hunch) I say that cause there's not a huge sunk in spot in the ground. I would think if whole tank was caved in the surface of the ground would resemble a bowl. But not sure...gonna try to unearth the rest of it in next day or so to find out. Before cold weather comes back and ground freezes. I'm digging by hand with a shovel so frozen would be bad..lol.. if it's not completely caved maybe I can just drop a plastic tank in there.. don't know much about septic tanks so any input on extremely cheap way of doing it would be greatly appreciated.
I'm in way over my head on this place, story of my life...lol..
 
Given the house's age, would not surprise me if the 'tank' is not much more than a plank covered pit. Equally not surprising is if the 'tank' is just about silted-in, or almost up up to the top. Chances are good that the drain field was isolated from pipe collapse as it probably used the old tar pipe, so that might be salvageable. Put another way, condenser starting to work on a budget for something modern like a concrete tank and plastic lines.

Went through this drill not too long ago. I got lucky with the drain field as it was cut-off decades ago from pipe failure. Good news is that now I know where everything is. Price for a new holding tank was reasonable, but I can see where it might be a stretch when sidelined from COVID...

For heating, might look into wood gassification as I know it is somewhat common in the New England area. A little expensive on the up-front part, but quickly pays for itself. Can also plumb gassification boilers into hot water.

Oh, and careful where digging. You already hit bones once :D
 
On the gas pressure test. Make sure you have a valve and a union at every appliance and a drip leg somewhere in the line. Go to home depot and get the 15$ gas pressure test gauge. Its going to be 3/4" female threads. Put it outside as close to where the meter is going to be as possible. The gauge is going to have 3/4" female threads so get what ever fitting you need to hook it up to the pipe you ran. Pump the line up with your air compressor but make sure all the valves are closed going to the equipment. Around here you have to hold 30 lbs. for 30 mins. I don't know what they require up there. If you can do that you should just have to call the inspector and once he sees it holding pressure he will tag it and then the gas company will come set the meter and connect to your pipe. That's the way it is around here. Probably not much different up there.

If you are running black iron pipe. Try to measure up what lengths you need and Home Depot normally threads them for free. I have my own pipe machine but if I only need a few pieces threaded I just take it to them so I don't have pull the pipe machine out of the truck and set it up.
 
My sister had septic tank problems so we located the tank and dig it up. It was a 30 gallon drum with a sewer hole knocked through the top and covered with green poly tarp crap.
A friend dug the new tank hole and we bootlegged in the new septic system. I think total, tank and them little tent affair leech field things was a total of about 1000 bucks. If allowable, dont install them PVC drain field pipes, use them puptent affair looking things. The pipe from the tank shoves into one end and done, just link together as many of them tents as needed for the amount of bedrooms.
 
Jaryd said:
On the gas pressure test. Make sure you have a valve and a union at every appliance and a drip leg somewhere in the line. Go to home depot and get the 15$ gas pressure test gauge. Its going to be 3/4" female threads. Put it outside as close to where the meter is going to be as possible. The gauge is going to have 3/4" female threads so get what ever fitting you need to hook it up to the pipe you ran. Pump the line up with your air compressor but make sure all the valves are closed going to the equipment. Around here you have to hold 30 lbs. for 30 mins. I don't know what they require up there. If you can do that you should just have to call the inspector and once he sees it holding pressure he will tag it and then the gas company will come set the meter and connect to your pipe. That's the way it is around here. Probably not much different up there.

If you are running black iron pipe. Try to measure up what lengths you need and Home Depot normally threads them for free. I have my own pipe machine but if I only need a few pieces threaded I just take it to them so I don't have pull the pipe machine out of the truck and set it up.
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Be careful too of what valves You use. I tried a pressure test with brass valves and even brand new ones leaked. Utility company man told me to remove the valves and plug and cap the pipe, then it will hold pressure. I did that and all was good.
Do not use 1/4 turn brass valves. Use 1/4 turn ball valves.
After inspection, then install the valves and after the gas is turned on, then use sudsy solution and check for leaks.
 
Around here the gas company requires the contractors license number and name be posted on a special card attached to the gas line before they will turn it on.
 
ak diesel driver said:
I'm kinda surprised you're not on city sewer
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Me too. I guess it depends on what city and if those services is available.
If city sewage is available the I think any type of septic system would be outlawed and would have to be bootlegged in. Hope there is not a bunch of prying eyes and nosy neighbors.
 
Around here it's mostly water wells and septic systems. Any part of the septic system from the tank on have to be a minimum of 100' from the well. Pretty tough to do on a small lot
 
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