• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

One trip down.

Nessmuk

Nessmuk

Well-Known Member
Messages
432
Reaction score
276
Location
East Amazonian polar region
1500 miles round trip. First day was a pip. Oil loss and massive blue smoke. Unplugged the CDR and been good since. Maybe a quart used since. Ran the hose back by the heater fan. Ordered a new CDR.
-Power steering / hydro boost is an issue. Pump overflows when braking until the pump is half empty. Is it likely the hydro boost?
Next issue,
-I get white smoke when into the turbo. Boost maxes at 10psi. Egts @ 1100 absolute max. Do I need to advance the pump?
Next issue,
-It has 5 psi fuel pressure at full boost on the passenger tank. When running on the drivers tank, it is zero. Same pump and filters. Wouldn't that be the fuel sock or a kinked line?
For a truck running on Rotella and STP to get oil pressure, and a hurried pump and turbo install, it did ok. 45 mph up a lot of the I-81 grades pulling a long, heavy trailer.
Found my WMI pump was frozen up. Every bearing in it was rusted solid. Ordered another and I'll put it in a cover.
Every time that steering over flowed, it looked like Cheech and Chong in the cab. Drafts in places I didn't know of. Took 3 days to get there. Lots of stops, changes, checks, fresh air and sleep.
Coming back I lost about 4 hours in traffic. A tractor trailer and then a two car accident.
At least I wasn't pulling the trailer at that point.
I'm still in Virginia at this point. Another day to go before I can tune on it.
 
Seems as if You are getting some of the bugs worked out.
I would check the fuel hoses from the tank to the lift pump first, before having to drop the tank/remove the box, to check the sock.
 
Sprung a leak somewhere up by the injection pump. Made it back though.
Looks to need the intake off again and leak fixed, then timed. Then the fuel supply issue.
Gotta do something about the hydro boost and noisy front brakes.
Then to the easy stuff.
 
Got the intake off today. I am running copper line to the pump inlet and outlet and keeping the rubber hose and all wires out of the intake valley. I liked the appearance better, but the heat and diesel leak softened everything, plus it is impossible to fix any leaks in there on the roadside.
I'm trying out some nylon t's and splices I found online to build a fuel return system out of the cloth covered injector return hose, into 1/4 inch and then 5/16ths. I'll post pics of the parts and numbers. So far the fit is really good, and acts as if it may not need clamps on the injector hose. The 30r14 fuel hose is stiffer, so I am clamping that.
 
Good luck on I-81, been up that way a few times, never pulled a trailer up that way, just a few vacation trips to Pennsylvania and West Virginia.
 
Intake back on and new wmi pump here and in. I sealed all the seams by taking it apart and rtv'd them. I'll put a bucket or similar over it to.
Advanced the timing and loosened all the injection lines and brake cleaned the fittings, then retightened them. Those tools I bought were just the thing.
The injection pump return hose fittings I bought seemed spot on. Pictures with labels to come in their own post.
 
Tomorrow, on the road again.
Turned up the pump timing. CDR fixed, hopefully. Steering cooler in. Hydro boost in.
Trailer hitched, breakaway battery to go in and wiring to be checked.
One fuel tank issue hopefully fixed, wiring at the tank valves was very steering fluid soaked and loose as well.
Now I have a doa fuel gauge, but had the dash out and will go back there again.
One trailer tire was flat, filled and will check again to see how fast it leaks.
 
Didn't make it out today. Found my gauges going whack. Lots of stress, lots of testing, found resistance in a ground.
Pulled a flat tire and pulled a nail out of it, put a plug in.
Ran all new wires to the brakes. Separate wires to each brake so if any wire fails, the other brakes will still work.
 
Nessmuk said:
Got the intake off today. I am running copper line to the pump inlet and outlet and keeping the rubber hose and all wires out of the intake valley. I liked the appearance better, but the heat and diesel leak softened everything, plus it is impossible to fix any leaks in there on the roadside.
I'm trying out some nylon t's and splices I found online to build a fuel return system out of the cloth covered injector return hose, into 1/4 inch and then 5/16ths. I'll post pics of the parts and numbers. So far the fit is really good, and acts as if it may not need clamps on the injector hose. The 30r14 fuel hose is stiffer, so I am clamping that.
Click to expand...


Copper doesn't have fatigue strength to withstand vibration. Copper reacts badly to biodiesel (turns green and dumps corrosion into the fuel system), yes your lawmakers and the EPA are fcking up diesel fuel now, so you can get 5% or less biodiesel without a label on the pump.

Nylon t's? I hope you have a fire extinguisher. The heat under the hood from towing gets extreme. I have melted plastic parts (PVC) I used on the CDR system to get around the ATT and wouldn't use plastic fittings for fuel at all. When you are in the "performance" section or "towing" the heat under the hood gets high no matter what the outside temps are. I have blown the return lines off before and the amount of fuel that is sprayed out, mainly from IP return flow, is considerable. The truck didn't burn with fuel wet manifolds because it was low speed and not towing at the time.

The cloth covered return lines, unless they are from a Mercedes dealer, are a joke. They dry rot in no time. Use without clamps is also a debate the bottom line being they let air in the system overnight without clamps and can leak as the lines dry rot. Clamps are hard work on the injectors but are worth doing. I suggest better return line next go around or when you have to fix them in a year or so from leaking. Personally I grew tired of replacing the cloth return lines so often and don't use them anymore.
 
Last edited:
Wow, your the happy camper bearer of good news!
I bought the line from known venders. The t's are better than the vacuum tubing t's I had to use before this. If you can find the right sizes in steel, let me know please.
 
Unpleasant after taste. Har!
Hardly at all. A pint, maybe.
Big issue was it running hot. The trailer was so loaded I thought a tire might roll of a rim when I had to turn tight.
Went direct through the night, a couple nap stops. Now I'm all awake even though it's been a day and a half. Should have left the holes in the fire wall, the fumes made sleeping easier.
 
4 trips down. 3 cars to dolly now. Leaking oil, head gasket blown and pressurizing the radiator, front tires half burned off before I realised the tierods were loose (the 9-16 bias 14 plies ride so rough, I didn't realise anything was wrong). I'm thinking a fresh engine and then rebuild this one is in the future.
 
Nessmuk said:
4 trips down. 3 cars to dolly now. Leaking oil, head gasket blown and pressurizing the radiator, front tires half burned off before I realised the tierods were loose (the 9-16 bias 14 plies ride so rough, I didn't realise anything was wrong). I'm thinking a fresh engine and then rebuild this one is in the future.
Click to expand...


Having run thousands of miles in your shoes and having a "Patch" rebuilt old pickup to show for it I suggest a better more reliable platform to haul commercially. Frankly as you are finding out the cheap GM designed 6.5 isn't up to the task without major modifications and will burn more fuel with the asthma attack turbo than you are making. The 6.2 engine was designed to equal a 305 V8 and the turbo edition was at the 350 power level, but, with more torque that the auto shifting program didn't use. Regardless the excess fuel burn from the turbo let alone the worn out engine/truck is going to eat all of your profits and then some. The low MPG from the GMx turbo will bankrupt you alone. You are staring at a black hole for parts right now running a real risk of seriously breaking down for the final time with a load hooked up. What's the plan when, not if, that happens to get the load delivered?

Front end on good Moog parts start at $800.00. Engines are now $2000+ for low mile 6.2 military surplus used and $3000 for better non GM cast 6.5's. Better turbo is another $802.00.

One member dropped in a Duramax to replace a 6.5 and managed to blow it up too. Personally I launched a Cummins to note the ~$10,000 Rebuild cost.

I suggest a Medium Duty truck (Freightliner, Topkick, for example) to haul commercially as they are found used cheaper than pickups, have 19.5" long life rubber, better cooling systems, and engines to go the distance. Duramax, a warmed over pickup engine, isn't on my list for this as there are better more economical to fix engines out there nevermind the 'just a bigger pickup' mindset that drives the price of the Duramax Medium Duty stuff through the roof.

Like I said a mile in your shoes:

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html
 
WarWagon said:
Having run thousands of miles in your shoes and having a "Patch" rebuilt old pickup to show for it I suggest a better more reliable platform to haul commercially. Frankly as you are finding out the cheap GM designed 6.5 isn't up to the task without major modifications and will burn more fuel with the asthma attack turbo than you are making. The 6.2 engine was designed to equal a 305 V8 and the turbo edition was at the 350 power level, but, with more torque that the auto shifting program didn't use. Regardless the excess fuel burn from the turbo let alone the worn out engine/truck is going to eat all of your profits and then some. The low MPG from the GMx turbo will bankrupt you alone. You are staring at a black hole for parts right now running a real risk of seriously breaking down for the final time with a load hooked up. What's the plan when, not if, that happens to get the load delivered?

Front end on good Moog parts start at $800.00. Engines are now $2000+ for low mile 6.2 military surplus used and $3000 for better non GM cast 6.5's. Better turbo is another $802.00.

One member dropped in a Duramax to replace a 6.5 and managed to blow it up too. Personally I launched a Cummins to note the ~$10,000 Rebuild cost.

I suggest a Medium Duty truck (Freightliner, Topkick, for example) to haul commercially as they are found used cheaper than pickups, have 19.5" long life rubber, better cooling systems, and engines to go the distance. Duramax, a warmed over pickup engine, isn't on my list for this as there are better more economical to fix engines out there nevermind the 'just a bigger pickup' mindset that drives the price of the Duramax Medium Duty stuff through the roof.

Like I said a mile in your shoes:

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html
Click to expand...
That is a real good article about the A-Team turbo. Really enjoyed reading that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top