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Old 6.5-T strikes again !

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The fuel system should take care of itself within a short time period - meaning it should've by now. Might have an actual leak. Although, bleeding it - just to be sure - won't hurt.

On edit: Just looked back at your OP. This started all by itself? Or was it after you did some maintenance?
 
Ok we tried putting the lift pump on switch !

It now has power and is pumping fuel ! Truck is still a bit hard starting and is still having the coughing studdering stumbling issue ! Only its acctually stalls out now at randum !

Mikey
 
on 95, the LP is run by OPS when the engine is running. So, also check your OPS. If OPS turns out to be good and LP is new than you may have the PMD limp mode symptoms.
 
The oil pressure switch is no longer in control !
I am the oil pressure switch right now !

I ran a wire from the power to a flip switch from the flip switch to the lift pump. . .
So you can see the OPS is not longer in control I am.

Repairs to solve:
1. New fuel filter.
2. New lift pump.
3. bypassed OPS.

once the studering issue is resolved then the OPS will get replaced. . .


Mikey
 
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I am thinking about swapping in a carbbed gas motor n moving on...

Gassers have served me well...

Plus 1 out 4 diesels being junk aint so bad...

Ill keep fussing with the old 6.5 a while more but its getting to be a head ache more then an asset !

Anywho moving on...

So check the fuel lines ?

Loosen the fuel cap ?

Mikey
 
As you may or may not know, these trucks are very electrically dependant. They NEED good GROUNDS for all power sources or these type symptoms act up.

If you you havn't already, Remove every ground in engine compartment, wire brush and re-install. Also a few cab-fram ribbon straps under the turbo side.

Good time to clean /retorque batt terms.

Take every fuse / relay out of the fuse box, examine, wire brush/clean if coroded, and re-install. Just moving them around helps.

Not sure if you already did this, but that is step #1 on repairing/diagnosing random problems.

And of course, make sure PMD wires are connected well at the harnesses.

It would really help for you if you had a fuel pressure guage to watch while it bucks. If the pressure doesn't budge and is healthy as a new pump should be, you know the problem is another gremlin.

Its also very possible that the sock in your tank is clogging up, giving you these symptoms of starving for fuel.

Once again, a fuel pressure guage will tell you this too.

Real-time fuel pressure kind of splits the diagnostic flowchart in half.

With all those ol' bones you have kicking around, i'm sure you'd use it on more than just this truck.

Cleaning electrical dependancies is a MUST DO.
The better you do it, the better the result.
 
Old filter only had 2800 miles on it, is it normal for it to get that dirty that quick? Also is it normal to have a rusty lift pump and non rusty fuel lines?

Mikey

photos of the new and old lift pump, and the new and old fuel filter:
 

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The fuel system should take care of itself within a short time period - meaning it should've by now. Might have an actual leak. Although, bleeding it - just to be sure - won't hurt.

On edit: Just looked back at your OP. This started all by itself? Or was it after you did some maintenance?

this started on it's own
 
Old filter only had 2800 miles on it, is it normal for it to get that dirty that quick? Also is it normal to have a rusty lift pump and non rusty fuel lines?

Mikey

photos of the new and old lift pump, and the new and old fuel filter:

I got a bad load of fuel in BF Wyoming and got the similar symptoms. Hard starts, stutter and kicks on light acceleration only to have it clear after putting my foot in it for a bit to get it "over the hump." It took two tanks of fuel, lots of Diesel additives, two fuel filter changes and a can of BD's diesel treatment ($40). Then it ran fine from Salt Lake City, through Phx and back to NC.
At each change, my filters looked like that after 100 miles. I changed the LP a few months later and the lines looked good but after 150k miles on the dial, the exterior looked a lot like yours. Unfortunately, I see from your other post you got towed recently...nothing like catastrophic failure to help fix point a problem...at least you know the LP is good:mad2:
 
Yes that just happened an hour ago after the truck simply refused to start. . .I had to be towed home by a 1500HD Gasser Dodge ! :mad2: !

Mikey
 
Mike, Get the pressure gauge. It will help you confirm good or bad fuel pressure through out the fuel system and get a 4' length of hose for it too. Trust me, I'm a diesel ignoramus as I've only owned mine for a little over two years. I've replaced a lot of things out of caution because the truck was pre-owned by three people who obviously neglected it. I had a shut down problem (other than the bad fuel later) that caused me to post relentlessly with updates. It went from periodic shut down (mostly dead) to "all dead." Everyone chipped in with support and advice. Everything helped at least eliminate an issue (especially the pressure gauge) so I could move on to the next thing. Turned out to be a blocked intake due to aftermarket air filter failure. I felt like a complete:dr: But, I learned a lot in the process and the truck is 'family' now.

Anyway, Turbine Doc had an apparent fuel pressure/starvation issue a while back and it turned out to be the snot sock. Good Luck and stay patient, it'll all sort out and you'll put more knowledge in your personal data base.
 
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Yea i am just confused to if having like or New fuel lines and that rusty Pump. . .

i am the second owner of this truck, and this Rig did come with a stack of paper work showing every repair and every service done to it. . .

So i thought it would have been a good truck, Not the over priced paper weight its turning into part by part. . .

Mikey
 
... and this Rig did come with a stack of paper work showing every repair and every service done to it. . .

So i thought it would have been a good truck, Not the over priced paper weight its turning into part by part. . .

Mikey

Not mine. It only had a receipt for some trailer wiring work done that read like Egyptian. I got lots of paper work now though and I can relate to the frustration you're having. Just hang in there.
I just have to remind myself that I bought mine to: a) have a truck and b) develop a knowledge base on diesels...I've got both and for good or bad, the knowledge base keeps expanding with every small issue with my truck (alternator last week) and every thread I read. Goal met:D
 
Old filter only had 2800 miles on it, is it normal for it to get that dirty that quick? Also is it normal to have a rusty lift pump and non rusty fuel lines?

In your paperwork, does it show when the fuel lines were replaced? Maybe they were replaced a lot more recently than the pump. Also, from the picture, it appears that pump may have originally been painted. Can you confirm? If so, that's the reason for the difference right there. Even so, that rust is very light - nothing to worry about. I wouldn't even consider replacing it based on looks. Pressure test.

Hang on and don't get frustrated. Once you know the ins and outs (read old posts, use the search function to research, etc) it's really not that bad.
 
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Don't get frustrated ? that is a big request. . .

This truck has done nothing but have break downs and failures for 4mo out of the 6mo i have owned it. . .
When it did run good it lacked power big time. . .

Anywho:

I'll check threw the paper work n see if there is anything having to be done with the fuel lines. . .

Mikey
 
A vac/fuel pump pressure guage is like $20-30 at any parts store. And it would help diagnose more than just LP as said before. Could be resitriction elsewhere.

Does it still not start?
 
nope it won't start at all. . .crack the bleeder on the fuel filter shoots fuel up to the hood.
crack the bleeder by the T-stat gushes pure fuel onto the ground.

Now about all i can do run the pump right onto the gauge hook the battery charger and let it run all day n see if changes any ?

Mikey
 
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Maybe your stumbling is caused by a bad fuel shutoff solenoid, it has done it to me a couple times, caused stalling, and sometimes no start.

You can unplug and pull it off the top of the IP, the cylinder thing. you can plug it back in while its out and turn IGN to ON and see if the plunger moves. If not get a C clamp pliers and just pull the plunger out of it and put it back on the IP and see if it runs.
 
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