Oil Filter Relocation Needs 0.o

[steelraptor]

Well it's my first post here, I have had my 6.5 GMC for a while now and well love the thing to death. Ended up having to put a motor in a little over a year ago due to some nasty cracks in the block.

Well the sad part is the guy who did it for me ended up kinda screwing me over. I thought it was a good deal till I say some of his after installation "fixes"

I think I have chased down most of the problems except for my grounds still gotta fix those, but my main issue is this...

The oil lines were totally botched. He somehow installed them and it's been insanely hard to put oil filters on or take them off. Basically the lines literally scrap the filter as its put off/taken off. Not only that, the lines also leak right where they meet the filter adapter. So he slapped some expoy on there and sad I "fixed" the leak, only for it to leak again and I find it now... Well since I don't have loads of cash as I live on my own now, work, and go to college I need to fix my only means of transportation without paying 100$ an hr at a shop around here.

I bought a filter adapter plate that screws into the existing filter threads and a remote filter mount to mount anywhere I want to place a filter.

My problem as of now is finding some 1/2inch braided lines with NPT fittings and how to connect it all up.

Is it possible to remove the 4x4 filter adapter and just slap my filter adapter right up to the block instead of it coming out in the crappy spot behind the wheel and no longer have the filter 4x4 adapter? Also would the lubrication specialist kit work to in that situation? I really want to eliminate the OEM lines and the OEM filter location to make oil changes faster/easier/less messy and reduce nasty oil line failures.

If it's all possible all I need to get then is the
- Lubrication specialist kit
- Oil lines.... (Any help here?)
- and filter bolt/thread to put into the block

Thanks for any help and well this form is pretty awesome! Can't wait to do the A-Team turbo one day and some meth injection xD


I hope I'm welcome here ^_^
Mike

 

[Slim Shady]

Welcome to the forum. Many here have remote mounted their oil filter and I have considered it myself. I have not researched it so I can not comment on the specifics. I would get a hold of one of the vendors, they will help you. Welcome.

 

[Burning oil]

If you want to remove the front drive shaft until you can afford to do it right then you could also remove the 4x4 adapter and put the oil filter on like a 2wd is.
You don't have to run braided lines ethier. Go to a hydraulic hose shop and tell them what you are doing. They should be able to set you up with rubber hose and fittings.
When you are ready I do sell a engine oil cooler kit also with stainless braided hoses and 4x4 adapter seal kit.
I may not be able to reply to you for another 12 days or so until Im back in the states.
Check my web site in the mean time.
Leroy

 

[DennisG01]

Mike, here's how I moved the oil filter (driveshaft doesn't have to be moved - although that would be the least expensive route for you). At a bare minimum, maybe it'll give you some ideas. In the thread are the part numbers I used (from Summit). These may have changed, though, as I did this a few years ago. I used SS braided lines, but like Leroy said, it's not necessary.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...-Filter-Kit-Who-s&highlight=remote+filter+oil

 

[steelraptor]

Thanks guys for your responses and advice. This has been a problem that I have been hesitant to approach, as I can end up with a truck out of commission if I attempt to fix everything with the wrong parts/information.

The pictures from the other thread defiantly help me a get a feel for what the setup will look like.

DennisG01, did you remove the 4x4 adapter and run your oil lines and filter adapter directly into the block? It looks that way to me, but just want to double check.

Also I haven't been able to do many repairs on my own vehicles in the past, mostly simple things like alternators/water pumps or anything I can get from the top or easily from the bottom in the street.
What is the correct procedure for dropping the front driveshaft? I don't need my 4x4 until the summer so I can do without it especially since my front diff is leaking too >_<

Should I be able to replace anything in the front driveshaft as well once its down? Like bearings or other serviceable parts since I do have 155k on the truck?

Burning oil,
I can wait until you are back, I have to setup a day to take off from work and school anyway to fix the problem in one shot.



So I guess the one parts I need are the oil lines, front diff service parts if needed? No gaskets needed since the filter adapter has one on it.

I will give head by the local hydraulic shop to ask about the lines and pricing.


Thanks yall, this will defiantly save me from eating up my budget.

Mike

 

[DennisG01]

DennisG01, did you remove the 4x4 adapter and run your oil lines and filter adapter directly into the block? It looks that way to me, but just want to double check.

Yes, the adapter goes directly onto the block, in place of the 4x4 adapter. The remote filter mount can be mounted anywhere you want - even up in the engine bay if you'd like. I did all this without a lift, by the way - plenty of room.

 

[NVW]

Welcome to TTS Mike!

The oil cooler kits come with the braided steel lines.

If money is tight, this is what I did: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?594-DIY-Oil-Cooler-Lines-(Small-Lines)

You would need 1/2" npt 90* fittings to go into a newer block (506)

 

[steelraptor]

Welcome to TTS Mike!

The oil cooler kits come with the braided steel lines.

If money is tight, this is what I did: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?594-DIY-Oil-Cooler-Lines-(Small-Lines)

You would need 1/2" npt 90* fittings to go into a newer block (506)

Well here's something to add to the chaos..... I have no idea if my block is the newer 506 blocks with oil squirters or an older block, since it is a reman I am at a loss of information. Where is the information stamped on the block at? I would REALLY love to figure out what block the guy put in my truck. :/

 

[SmithvilleD]

If you're handy & have the tools & time, the stock 4x4 adaptor can be modified, then drilled, tapped to accept NPT to AN fittings to use std AN hose-ends/braided stainless hose. Otherwise, the ready-made adaptors are readily available & easy. I just didn't like the one that came in my dual remote filter kit from Summit Racing. The adaptor was 2 concentric pieces (o-ring sealed) made to fit more than one application & I thought modifying the original 4x4 adaptor might be a little less leak prone - although this is debateable as the OEM 4x4 adaptors are known to leak as the o-rings sealing them age.

Regardless of adaptor used, I would suggest you go a size bigger to 5/8"/-10 on a remote oil filter setup. Pretty limited additional cost in going one size bigger & this isn't a system you want experiencing significant restriction when outdoor temps are low & oil flows with more difficulty. On the same thought, look over whatever kit you get to see if there are any obvious restrictions that could be easily cleaned up/improved with a little basic porting/smoothing. Some have casting flash & other flow restrictions that are easily corrected.

If you're considering redoing the oil cooler also, I've got a pic or two of one way to do it in my albumn. Believe the later blocks upsized the oil cooler lines (5/8" if memory serves). I wish I'd drilled out my 929 block's oil cooler feed/return ports & used -10 instead of -08 when I had the engine out to build.

 

[Turbine Doc]

If you want a "plug & Play kit" I'd contact Greg @ www.lubricationspecialist.com he has/had the Amsoil remote/bypass filtration kit I'm running in mine while spendy, the $$$ saved in extended oil change interval it will pay for itself in long run, I run a oil sample program on mine I went from 3K mile intervals with mine to 25K interval when combined with Amsoil synthetic I'm running

 

[SmithvilleD]

TD brings up a good point. Regardless of which remote filter setup you use, it's relatively easy to daisy chain on a bypass filter beyond the main oil filter(s) so long as your oil feed plumbing is adequate. You can feed the bypass filter from the same oil feed - many remote oil filter bases have the feed/return ports cross drilled all the way through so you can mount them in multiple configurations. Most bypass oil filters need a return line with no restriction/oil pressure which is why you see most ready-made kits returning into a valve cover or into the oil fill tube.

 

[steelraptor]

If you want a "plug & Play kit" I'd contact Greg @ www.lubricationspecialist.com he has/had the Amsoil remote/bypass filtration kit I'm running in mine while spendy, the $$$ saved in extended oil change interval it will pay for itself in long run, I run a oil sample program on mine I went from 3K mile intervals with mine to 25K interval when combined with Amsoil synthetic I'm running

I was thinking of running one of the Amsoil 25k filters, switching to synthetic and installing a small centrifuge mounted on top of the oil filler neck. I would tee off the turbo oil line to drive this centrifuge and hopefully go 30k on one oil change once I do some science with black stone labs. This of course once I have access to my friend and his welder plus some more cash =p

 

[tanman_2006]

If you want a "plug & Play kit" I'd contact Greg @ www.lubricationspecialist.com he has/had the Amsoil remote/bypass filtration kit I'm running in mine while spendy, the $$$ saved in extended oil change interval it will pay for itself in long run, I run a oil sample program on mine I went from 3K mile intervals with mine to 25K interval when combined with Amsoil synthetic I'm running

Did the same thing/same kit. I sample at 5K still just incase, I have coolant in my oil now and it happend right around 5K on this oil change. I went 25K on the first interval. I was changing the large particle filter every 5k.

 

[Turbine Doc]

I'm sampling about 5K intervals oil & filter changes at about 25K when TBN numbers start declining or I get silica number increase

 

[steelraptor]

I'm sampling about 5K intervals oil & filter changes at about 25K when TBN numbers start declining or I get silica number increase

So roughly how many miles can you get out of the same oil? Also what kind of work load are you putting on your motor daily? I would think if you do highway and run mostly unloaded you could get 30-35k miles out of the oil from what I have been reading with the readouts from Blackstone.

Does that sound about right?

 

[Turbine Doc]

Yes same oil I just add oil to top off after leaks/consumption Blackstone numbers sounds about right I probably could push to 30K with mixed city/highway driving and occasional towing I do/did, I was making weekly/biweekly commutes 1000 miles RT for almost 2 years, I had some wear on injectors I replaced last summer same time I did last oil change, bad injectors can impact oil life as well.

Since Sept last year I have pretty much parked my truck new my job came with car & fuel account so it doesn't get driven much these days.

 

[Franko914]

Without a welder, I had to use a few locknuts and bolts to fashion the dual-filter mount bolted to the AC compressor bracket... braided SS hoses were from JEGS, dual-filter from PermaCool, NPT-to-HoseBarbs from HomeDepot. Sure makes changing oil so much easier. If I had to do it over, I would use AN fittings/swaged hose ends and welded angle iron.

 

[Burning oil]

I was thinking of running one of the Amsoil 25k filters, switching to synthetic and installing a small centrifuge mounted on top of the oil filler neck. I would tee off the turbo oil line to drive this centrifuge and hopefully go 30k on one oil change once I do some science with black stone labs. This of course once I have access to my friend and his welder plus some more cash =p

You wont have room to mount ontop of filler neck. I have a neat kit that will mount it over by Alt on 96 & ^ trucks.

 

[jrsavoie]

It also helps to mount the return to the fill neck at a slightly down angle - definitely not up.

That way if you pull the cap with the engine running, oil does not splash out the top.

What do you need if you remove the adapter to go with the 2 wheel drive style mount?

I am assuming an oil filter base of some type.

Any pictures or anything anywhere?

It helps to plug the truck in for a few hours before removing the adapter. I have had them stuck tight and then come out rather easily after the block was warmed up.

Adapter bolt size 1 3/8", 36 mm or 35 mm

47 foot lbs. for the adapter

 

[Burning oil]

Get new hoses yet? ^