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No start when hot

I had a look at the new VP,appears to me they have a pump mounted driver and fuel solenoid similair to the DS4 on the 6.5's.

Do they have similair probs with these PMD's as the 6.5 ?

can a guy just try a new PMD,or is it more mechanical wear on these things?
 
There is no external part to replace on the IP. It's an all or nothing situation. And no it won't be difficult to get it going after the install, but you'll make it easier to get the air out by loosening the three easiest fuel lines.

If I'm working by myself, I've let the pump cycle a couple of times with the lines cracked, then actually start the engine and tighten them as I can while running. To do this I usually have the lines only about one turn open.

I'd encourage the owner to have you install a fuel gauge for him. If he has a stock LP a 15# gauge is the appropriate range. Pump may read12-14# (at idle) out of the box, maybe. WOT it will drop to 8-9#. But when this LP fails the IP will pull fuel, but the fuel is the coolant for the IP and it will fail soon then it should otherwise.

If he doesn't want a gauge a warning light is better then nothing. It needs to glow at about 5 PSI.

If he chooses neither show him what the LP cost-----that will be his next major purchase AGAIN!
 
I cant say the design of these trucks is all that smart,it would've been helpfull if the rad shroud was 2 piece so a guy could get half decent to that IP shaft to bolt a puller on to pop the gear loose(holy mother that thing was tight).Getting no 6 inj line nut cracked loose was another headache with that engine burried under the dash and no room to hook 2 wrenches together for leverage.But i got that sucker IP outa there last night and called it a day.

D2 CAT,
as for the fuel gauge i'm 100% with ye,but as the saying goes.You can lead a horse to water, but you cant make it drink.
 
I had some time today and bolted the new IP back in,had fuel at the inj at first try,tighted the inj nuts and she fired up right away,running smooth in 2 sec.
I installed a fuel press gauge as wel,15 psi key on engine off,12 psi at idle. does that sound OK?
 
See how your day goes when you get your vitamins?

Those are good pressures. What did you have to do go take a sales course to get the owner to go for the gauge? Did you put in between the filter and the IP? If so, remind the owner to keep an eye on his new gauge (since he's not use to it) and be aware of the pressures as he pulls different loads and rpms. Then he'll get the feel for when to change the fuel filter.
 
D2 Cat said:
See how your day goes when you get your vitamins?

Those are good pressures. What did you have to do go take a sales course to get the owner to go for the gauge? Did you put in between the filter and the IP? If so, remind the owner to keep an eye on his new gauge (since he's not use to it) and be aware of the pressures as he pulls different loads and rpms. Then he'll get the feel for when to change the fuel filter.
Click to expand...
I told the owner not to come back to me if his IP or LP fails again,unless he lets me install a gauge and he keeps an eye on it,that did the trick):h.

i took the schrader valve core out of the bleed/test port of the inlet banjo bolt on the IP and fitted a 1/4" hydr hose end (#3 or something,crimp sleeve removed)with a swivel nut (Makes it still easy to bleed) :thumbsup: to it with a 1/4" fuel line and mech gauge in the cab.
 
Some don't like the mechanical gauge in the cab. They hear stories of diesel leaks, smell, etc....

I used an electric gauge at first because I had concerns after reading all the BB's stories of fuel in cab. After four changes of the sending unit (and this was a name brand. They sent me all the sending units w/o pay) I removed that gauge and installed the mech.

I had the fancy SS wrapped line to get from the engine to the gauge. It's works fine. No smell, no leaks, no trouble of any kind. You can also buy the "grease gun" hose in lengths to about 36" and do the same thing.

I also went to Geno's and got a big line kit ( which eliminates all the banjo bolts). Then relocated the LP down to the frame rail in front of the tank. Installed a ball valve before the pump for quick shut off. I can change the LP in 10-15 minutes on the side of the road with two wrenches. I did all that 'cause the elec. gauge kept giving me crazy readings. I had a spare LP under the back seat. I'd go on a 600 mile trip and wonder where I could get service if I needed it!

One more thought. Sometimes the gauge will rattle or bounce. If it does the solution is to add a needle valve. Similar to the one the 6.5 has in the WIF drain hose. Turn it all the way closed, then open it about 1/4 turn, that's all. This limits the high pressures surges from getting to the gauge. There is also a fitting called a snuffer ( think it is) that does the same thing. Install it up front near the IP where ever it's easy to install with the fittings you used.
 
D2 Cat said:
Some don't like the mechanical gauge in the cab. They hear stories of diesel leaks, smell, etc....

I used an electric gauge at first because I had concerns after reading all the BB's stories of fuel in cab. After four changes of the sending unit (and this was a name brand. They sent me all the sending units w/o pay) I removed that gauge and installed the mech.

I had the fancy SS wrapped line to get from the engine to the gauge. It's works fine. No smell, no leaks, no trouble of any kind. You can also buy the "grease gun" hose in lengths to about 36" and do the same thing.

I also went to Geno's and got a big line kit ( which eliminates all the banjo bolts). Then relocated the LP down to the frame rail in front of the tank. Installed a ball valve before the pump for quick shut off. I can change the LP in 10-15 minutes on the side of the road with two wrenches. I did all that 'cause the elec. gauge kept giving me crazy readings. I had a spare LP under the back seat. I'd go on a 600 mile trip and wonder where I could get service if I needed it!

One more thought. Sometimes the gauge will rattle or bounce. If it does the solution is to add a needle valve. Similar to the one the 6.5 has in the WIF drain hose. Turn it all the way closed, then open it about 1/4 turn, that's all. This limits the high pressures surges from getting to the gauge. There is also a fitting called a snuffer ( think it is) that does the same thing. Install it up front near the IP where ever it's easy to install with the fittings you used.
Click to expand...


Now that is a hell of a idea,i allways wondered why the needle flutters so much ,only on my wife's truck and what to do about it,mine aint so bad.I blamed it on trapped air in the gauge hoses,maybe it is'nt.

I use mech gauges cause its cheaper and more relyable,the incidence of blowing a hose in the cab is the least of my concerns with the low pressure used.

On the VP,i was actually surprized at the small restrictive holes in the inlet banjo bolt,so i took the liberty to drill them out some
 
The part is a snubber. I mis-spelled it. It goes inline like a check valve. You can do a search on Ebay and pick one up for $6-8. The needle valve you can get at NAPA I don't remember the number though.
 
On the banjo bolts, there are 5, I think. Two at the LP, two at the filter canister and one at the IP. If you don't do them all it doesn't get much accomplished.

On my truck ('01) I got the big line kit which is 3/8" or 1/2" hose from the tank to the IP. Removes the banjos for a bigger ID fitting.

On this BB you guys call it "feed the beast" for the 6.5, from what I've read. Pretty much the same thing. Less restrictions, more fuel volume, more cooling, better pressures, less repairs.
 
D2 Cat said:
On the banjo bolts, there are 5, I think. Two at the LP, two at the filter canister and one at the IP. If you don't do them all it doesn't get much accomplished.
On my truck ('01) I got the big line kit which is 3/8" or 1/2" hose from the tank to the IP. Removes the banjos for a bigger ID fitting.

On this BB you guys call it "feed the beast" for the 6.5, from what I've read. Pretty much the same thing. Less restrictions, more fuel volume, more cooling, better pressures, less repairs.
Click to expand...
Me stupid:rolleyes5:,i did'nt think about the other banjo's ,yet i had them all off at one time to get to the LP ,to late now,truck is gone allready:mad2:

Yea,i need to do the feed the beast yet,i got the parts though.
 
No kidding these LP's are crap,got the truck back in,LP gave up the ghost again,lasted but a month:mad2:

Owner sure is a believer now on the fuel press gauge:thumbsup:
 
That's ridiculous! Pump should last longer then a month. Call the supplier and ask them how long they'd expect their product to last. Maybe there's some warranty, like full replacement.

I tend to keep vehicles 'tell there's no life left in them, then revive them and go for a second life!! I have a '76 Chev 4x4 I bought in '80 still running and use regularly. So I take my habits into consideration when fixing.

On my '01 Dodge I got a "Big Line kit" from Geno's (online). I mounted the LP in front of the fuel tank. The factory line comes out of the tank to a convenient place I could reach and then install a ball valve. Couple of inches of hose to compression fittings for lift pump. Hose from LP to factory filter. Then another piece of hose from LP to IP. The big line kit also includes the wiring extension required.

I've currently got 3 LP's for backups!!! I got two of them 2 or 2 years ago when their was a campaign for school buses and UPS trucks that were having stalling problems. Hence the name "campaign pump". And I've never had the factory LP go bad while mounted by the tank. Recently I did purchase a FASS pump from a wrecked truck. It pumps 16-17# all day long under any conditions. I have no warranty since I am not the original purchaser, but then I only paid $200 for it.

LP's are made to push fuel, not suck the fuel to them. So mounting it in the back is much better functioning, plus with the shutoff valve I can turn the valve off and change the LP on the side of the road in a few minutes (if I needed to) without a diesel bath.
 
LP still good.
The new gauge must've broke the needle shaft,prob was bouncing to much, Owner never said a thing bout that.I've got to put a snubber in the line.
Shit happens
 
A snubber may require a bit of a search, but you can find them online. You can also use a needle valve. You can get them at NAPA (but I'd have to do some digging to find the number). If you use a needle valve you can turn it closed and then just open it 1/4 turn or so, it doesn't take much. That will stop the hammering.

I've got a snubber and a needle valve on mine. I had the snubber so I installed it, then I liked the idea of a needle valve to shut off the fuel to the gauge if there was a leak. I ran my line directly into the cab with SS wrapped hose.
 
I got a snubber on the 95,I picked up another one today for the dodge.
They are both 1/4" male x 1/4" female,its all i can get.
by the time i get a hose barb on both ends the damn thing is gonna be 4" long. I might look into a needle valve>
 
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