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No Start Issue - Heat Soak Issue?

the clear tubing from the hardware store has been on mine for years now. allows a quick check whenever I want. worth the hassle to install and just leave it on
 
I know your SES light does come on, but what about the security light? Does it come on during the key-on lamp check? if not, the bulb is burnt out. I had a buddy that had a 99 S10 that had the same starting symptoms, and it was security light related, aka passlock. Passlock was introduced in 1998. I know it is apples to oranges, but it could be something. The next time this happens, try unhooking the batteries for 5 minutes, reconnecting, and then trying again.

have you been to advance auto parts or one of the big chain auto parts stores to get hooked to the code reader?

I would do some fuel line investigating, for all we know, the rubber line from FFL to IP could be deteriorating, and allowing a flap of rubber to flop over and block flow. perfect time to do FTB, or if on a budget, just change the line. and like suggested, small engine shop for fuel rated clear line.

also, this is purely my opinion, but let others weigh in, but I feel the OEM location is second only to the remote in airflow (bumper, airbox, inner fender prior to airbox, etc) remote mount. I think the OEM pump mount is better than the SS diesel mount.

Finally, cheer up, you will hopefully get this fixed. I am sensing some anti-6.5L thoughts in the force. :)

good luck!
 
GM Guy said:
I know your SES light does come on, but what about the security light? Does it come on during the key-on lamp check? if not, the bulb is burnt out. I had a buddy that had a 99 S10 that had the same starting symptoms, and it was security light related, aka passlock. Passlock was introduced in 1998. I know it is apples to oranges, but it could be something. The next time this happens, try unhooking the batteries for 5 minutes, reconnecting, and then trying again.

have you been to advance auto parts or one of the big chain auto parts stores to get hooked to the code reader?

I would do some fuel line investigating, for all we know, the rubber line from FFL to IP could be deteriorating, and allowing a flap of rubber to flop over and block flow. perfect time to do FTB, or if on a budget, just change the line. and like suggested, small engine shop for fuel rated clear line.

also, this is purely my opinion, but let others weigh in, but I feel the OEM location is second only to the remote in airflow (bumper, airbox, inner fender prior to airbox, etc) remote mount. I think the OEM pump mount is better than the SS diesel mount.Finally, cheer up, you will hopefully get this fixed. I am sensing some anti-6.5L thoughts in the force. :)

good luck!
Click to expand...
I believe it is,...provided the fuel supply is kept healty and the tank is kept no less than half full so the fuel don't get to hot(in summer)
The biggest drawback of the PMD in the stock location is the hassle with replacing it when it does fail.
A mayor PITA,more so if it happens when on the road
I would rather put it on the intake and carry a spare in case it kicks the bucket.
 
You can get a mechanical fuel gage for $12-15 at Napa n hook it to the fuel line and run it in front of the windshield temporary to check it. I used one like that when I first got my truck to diagnose a intermittent ops problem.
 
Just an FYI... I replaced both batteries a week after my last post and the truck has been starting and running fine. And both batteries that were replaced tested "Good" on the tester at Autozone.
 
I'm late to the party been busy with work so forgive me if I'm covering old territory here, you said you checked gnds, which ones ? even auxillary gnds may not be sufficient for the individual circuit groups, the one I suspect is aft passenger side gnd (the one the PCM "puter" behind the glove box uses) , if loose or dirty it can cause issues see in the TRL http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/forumdisplay.php?218-6-2-and-6-5-Technical-Reference-Library this thread http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?17457-Grounds-what-are-they-amp-where-are-they on the different gns and what subsystems they impact what the PCM needs.

Gnds with modern vehicles have multiple gnds and depending which one is not "clean" can impact sensors & inputs to the PCM a clean but loose one on mine last week shut me down, I had to remove the crimp lug that had become oxidized and cleaned it to bright copper & soldered it to get a good solid mechanical/electrical joint then coated with di-electric grease at the mating surfaces (lug-washer-stud-nut) to help keep them isolated/protected from moisture/humidity corrosion.

Even though a relatively new PMD/FSD is in the mix here, do not discount that as the culprit; if it is under hood mounted then it is suspect, as far as the replacement PMD goes was it a new PMD or a tested used but good one, because if it has ever been mounted under hood IMO it is suspect. New new is only way to minimize the heat risk, but there have been some early fails of even new PMDs in short time, is this a stanadyne PMD (black or grey) or a Dipaco aftermarket PMD ?
 
PMD is a new new FS. Grounds were checked for both resistance and for voltage drop. Any that showed resistance were removed, cleaned, replaced. The grounds you mention, RR of the block, are clean and tight. Most grounds on this vehicle have new terminals that are crimped, soldered and heat shrinked (marine grade) since bad grounds are a prime source of RFI, and this is a communications truck.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Hello Bernie,

How old and what "brand" (Matched Set) were the batteries that you swapped out?

Just Curious.
Click to expand...

Matched set from Costco (decent batteries made by Johnson Controls) dated sticker of 1/10 and installed 01/15/2010, so just about two and a half years old. Both were replaced under warranty (100 month warranty with free replacement the first 36 months) for two date coded 06/12

These are 800cca (1000ca) group 72 batteries
 
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