No crank with whining noise

[Landon730]

Uncontrolled runaway and no throttle response are classic signs of an IP on its last legs. You get no throttle response when it goes runaway (won't idle down when you release the accelerator pedal) because the IP is mechanically seizing from wear and the stepper motor can't over come the resistance. I can't ever recall either the early series '94 APPS or the late series '94 APPS NOT setting a code when they go bad. The early '94's were upgraded to the later style APPS and the PROM reflashed/replaced with the updated program to work with the new style APPS on a factory recall (IF the owner brought it in). If the APPS was bad, it would have set a code for it.

Meanwhile, Will's suggestions should be undertaken. Yes, bad ground(s) can cause some crazy things to happen on these trucks. The clear fuel line is a great diagnostic tool and entrained air in the fuel can cause all sorts of idle/surging problems, too. But as somebody who has owned a late '94 since 2002 and over 220K miles and has replaced a couple of IP's that have worn out, as well as the ones on my 98, you are most likely looking at replacing the IP whether or not you want to accept that.

I have pumps laying everywhere if I need to change a pump I can, I just want to make sure that thats the last thing changed since its most time consuming. I unplugged the pedal the other night and it idled like normal. Borrowed another pedal today from a friend gonna see if that fixes it. The pedal is the easiest quickest thing, therefore I want to start here and work through yalls suggestion. I'm just extremely limited on cash and time, not trying to argue with anyone

 

[Landon730]

Pedal fixed it, its running great now. Just time for some cleaning up and fender restoration

 

[Landon730]

After You get that HF multimeter for $1.98, be sure to check the output of the alternator.

I actually think the bearings are fried in it. I’ve put 35 miles on it around my house so far and alternator outputs 14 volts until you do anything electrical it drops significantly. Also gets stupid hot after running for not very long. It’s going to become my daily next week because of my 6.2 destroying itself.

 

[Husker6.5]

If the bearings are fried, you (and everybody within earshot) will know it from the horrendous racket they make.

 

[Landon730]

If the bearings are fried, you (and everybody within earshot) will know it from the horrendous racket they make.

Ok well it doesn’t make any noise lol

 

[WarWagon]

Might be hitting the rear bracket and alt shaft rubbing on it.

Volts drop under load - have the alt tested. If you had a volt meter you could see what the output voltage is under load. IMO its a bad connection from alt to main bus on passenger side firewall. Connection at alt tight? Careful as too tight can break it and sparks fly as you start welding.

 

[Landon730]

Might be hitting the rear bracket and alt shaft rubbing on it.

Volts drop under load - have the alt tested. If you had a volt meter you could see what the output voltage is under load. IMO its a bad connection from alt to main bus on passenger side firewall. Connection at alt tight? Careful as too tight can break it and sparks fly as you start welding.

I actually got a volt meter from harbor freight like y’all had said and I’m not sure about connections. I know the plastic plug on the side needs to be changed

 

[JMJNet]

Replace or rebuild the alternator?

 

[Husker6.5]

If you have a reputable local automotive electric shop that rebuilds starters and alternators I'd go that route over buying a reman from any of the chain stores (O'Reilly's, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, NAPA) any day. Otherwise, buy a new one.

 

[jrsavoie]

If you have a reputable local automotive electric shop that rebuilds starters and alternators I'd go that route over buying a reman from any of the chain stores (O'Reilly's, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, NAPA) any day. Otherwise, buy a new one.

I agree with this 100%.

The only way I would buy a store reman is if it was all that was available that day and I had to absolutely get the vehicle running.

Hopefully you have a good rebuilder close by. My 2nd choice is AC Delco professional new or a good or better quality aftermarket that people have recommended

 

[Landon730]

I agree with this 100%.

The only way I would buy a store reman is if it was all that was available that day and I had to absolutely get the vehicle running.

Hopefully you have a good rebuilder close by. My 2nd choice is AC Delco professional new or a good or better quality aftermarket that people have recommended

I have a awesome place to take them. Guy is amazing I had a starter that was so rusted and full of trash I thought it wouldn’t be fixable and he fixed it to where it works perfect now

 

[jrsavoie]

I would use a Multimeter to test ground & power at starter.

Then an induction amp gauge over the battery cable to starter.

If that seems normal- pull the starter.

Do you have an induction amp gauge you would recommend? I've never had one. Are there any cheap ones that work fine?

 

[jrsavoie]

Looks like it too as all the dash lights dim. Needs to check all 4 battery connections. What are you using for batteries? One battery ain't gonna cut it. FWIW you can't jump the 10HP starter like a gas engine: both bats have to be good. The jumper cables just can't move enough current.

I've done it with 2/0 cables off the International with the 2 big batteries it has. But in general, most peoples jumper cables aren't even as big our baTTery cables.

Batteries are the first place you should start. If they don't load test after sitting for 2 hours, they are junk. If you get a 3 year free replacement battery, load test it in 2 years 11 months and swap it out if it doesn't hit the mark.

Always have batteries load tested when you buy them. I've gone through 5 batteries to take home 2. I also encountered a whole batch of batteries that tested bad at Rural King when I was getting batteries for the International

 

[Will L.]

These are the ones I use for automotive. The little gauge looking set is nice because you don’t hae to completely go around the wire, just lay it overtop.
No clue on best price, sorry. Those gauge ones I have had for probably 25 years.

The other 2 pics are random online- one is a combo unit with the clamp, but the other is a remote lamp tha can be added to an existing multimeter. Just be sure the add on will attatch to your current one, or make sure you can return if not.

 

[jrsavoie]

Ok yeah- drop the starter first then. Undo all 4 battery points and inspect for damage. The heat from a hung starter can damage battery terminals.

Change that - undo negative battery cables first.

 

[jrsavoie]

I have a awesome place to take them. Guy is amazing I had a starter that was so rusted and full of trash I thought it wouldn’t be fixable and he fixed it to where it works perfect now

That is awesome. Our local rebuilder retired several years ago, Sure do miss him!

 

[Husker6.5]

We have a great automotive electrical shop here in Lincoln, Fred's Auto Electric. The rebuild starters and alternators the right way, better than OEM. They turn and polish armatures, can rewind field and stator coils for higher output alternators, replace bushings with bearings, etc.