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New to diesels and tooj on a 6.5 turbo diesel project

Truck sat for over 5 years my buddy gave it to me couple people tried fixing it was diagnosed as IP bad I found ops was broke ground strap broke back of block wire shortage like u would believe starter shorted at back on engine and started its self was no good fried wires on steering sensor right before it goes thru fire wall when I got it it was tore apart and not everything was there but it was free so I won't complain
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
New ops starter timing cover/oil pan gasket new water pump new cam sensor new fuel and air filter dropped tank flushes and new sock new fuel pump cleaned injectors new return lines oil and coolant I believe that's about everything
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You have a lot of the items taken care of that would need doing.
After it is fired and running it should go for a good long while without attention.
 
MrMarty51 said:
You have a lot of the items taken care of that would need doing.
After it is fired and running it should go for a good long while without attention.
Click to expand...
I hope so i deleted vac pump shorter belt manual waste gate and it starts and idle great if I go to give it throttle it hesitate and started smoking white from exhaust maybe from injector leaking from 2 return lines? Think I fixed it but hoping rest of process goes smoothly tomorrow
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
I hope so i deleted vac pump shorter belt manual waste gate and it starts and idle great if I go to give it throttle it hesitate and started smoking white from exhaust maybe from injector leaking from 2 return lines? Think I fixed it but hoping rest of process goes smoothly tomorrow
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White Smoke smell like fuel ?
Only other source for white smoke is cooling system leaking into combustion chambers.
If it is a unburned diesel smoke smell then get on Leroy Diesel and get a set coming.
Dont need to burn a piston from raw fuel. At least I think thats how it works.
 
Alright today after work I want to get started on the relearn I am borrowing a lab top usb driver came truck is communicating with me via paperclip and codes were cleared IL get free version first and I have the links but could someone send a brief description of process truck starts and idles IL get to temp view the reading and shut off truck to advance or retard restart view numbers if it's there relearn by shut off and hold gas pedal??
 
it's a bit more on the relearn procedure. once you can communicate with the truck and the laptop using the free version, you'll need the paid version to perform the relearn procedure.

once you have the engine all back together, the first step is to have it running and up to operating temp (at least 170 deg F) then for ease of access I would recommend having the upper intake horn removed from the engine so that you can access the three nuts holding the IP to the engine.

a little bit of caution here... make sure there are no fuel leaks and the fuel system doesn't have any air. the easy way to check for air is to remove the return hose from the IP (short 5" piece from the IP to the steel return line) and replace it with a clear hose. You can get the clear hose from any local home depot or hardware store, it does not have to be fuel rated hose, we are just checking to see if the IP is passing any air bubbles.

after you've verified that there isn't any air in the line get you a solid piece of board or a clipboard, something handy that you can lay flat over the intake opening to choke out the engine just in case it attempt to "run away" this will insure you can kill the engine manually if needed.

Before you start the engine with the intake horn removed, make sure that any and all thing are out of the way from being able to get sucked into the intake. leaves, dirt, tools, grease rags ect...

now, take your wrench and loosen the bottom two nuts holding the IP leaving the top one secure so the IP won't turn on you with the engine running. connect the laptop, connect to the PCM and start the truck leaving it idling. verify the engine is again up to operating temp.

Below is a run down on the procedure which sums it up (I copied this from another forum thread), but there are some cavorts, and some helpful tips to getting it close in the first try.
if the IP is too far advanced or retarded when you begin, there will be a code that comes up and the offset reading will be out of range. I will go into some detail on how to get it into range and possibly get it dead on on the first try in the next couple of posts.

  • Start GMTDScan Tech.
  • Connect to your truck.
  • Go into the dashboard view and verify that the engine coolant temp is at, or above, 180 °F. If not, wait before proceeding.
  • Go into the DTC view and verify that no trouble codes are present.
  • Go into the TDC view.
  • Take note of the current DES/ACT/TDCO values. OEM is +3.5°/+3.5°/-0.5°.
  • Click the TDC Time Set ON button. DES should now read 0° and ACT should read +3.5° on average.
  • Click the TDC Time Set OFF button to go back to normal operating mode.
  • Click the TDC Learn ON button. The TDCO value will now fluctuate for about 20-30 seconds before setting itself. You can end the sequence prematurely by clicking the TDC Learn OFF button. The current TDCO value will then be set in the PCM.
  • If you are not happy with the TDCO you get you must turn the injection pump. Towards the drivers side is "+" and towards the passenger side is "-". A 2mm move equals 5° so take it very easy and do not attempt to turn the injection pump while the engine is running!
  • Repeat the TDC Learn procedure until the TDCO you want is attained.
 
Now keep in mind when you get the laptop connected you might get code 88 - TDC offset error showing. this means that the IP is too far one way or the other. you may also get this code after the first few times trying to run the relearn procedure. But if there are any other engine codes present. you will have to diagnose and fix those issues before performing the relearn.

just wanted to make that clear.
 
I don't know who wrote this, but here is an article that will also help explain the relearn procedure. only read the top part. don't worry about the rest of the things in this yet. we don't want to modify anything here. I'm only referencing the timing set section. to help you understand it all.
 

Attachments

  • Mnx&Mods info updated.pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 2
Seems pretty technical for a simple redneck like me technology isn't my strong suit so wish me luck will I be able to keep this license once purchased and could a few of yall be available to assist me tonight I'm not sure how yall feel about this but anybody feel comfortable assisting via phone call if I run into problems not feeling like it's goin to be smooth process as much resistance this truck has gave me thus far
 
If the engine will not rev, please someone correct me if I am wrong, but, it would seem to Me that timing may not be the issue.
It could be the throttle position sensor is at fault or maybe some other item of concern.
Get the GMTD Scan to functioning then look at all the sensors and the readings from those before attempting the timing off set relearn.
And the white smoke is a concern, like too much fuel.
If You do attempt a timing off set relearn, as DB mentioned, engine has to be near operating temp before the relearn can be entered.
You may have to block the radiator to get the temp that high if idle is all that can be maintained.
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
It does Rev up it just didn't sound great IL look into this white smoke situation and see what the code link tells me
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Okay. I must have misunderstood. I thought the engine would not rev.
It will be a lot easier to get the engine to operating temp at a higher RPM.
Quadstar tuning has a pigtail that can be plugged into the ECM terminal connector, or You can make one.
That pigtail hooked to a switch and other side of switch to ground, that will give You the PTO option.
Flip on the switch, or ground the pigtail and the engine will rev to a preset RPM.
On OBD1 I am not sure what that RPM number is.
On my OBD2 system there is two pigtails and two switches that I plumbed in. That gives the PTO option three different RPM ranges. I dont remember the exact numbers.
1000 RPMs on switch one. Turn it off and about 1300 RPMs on switch two and with both switches run to ground 1500 RPMs. Or close thereabouts. 😹😹😹
 
I agree. absolutely lets get the GMTD communicating and look at the sensor data and codes before trying to set the timing. since the engine is running and will rev we can go through everything making sure there isn't another issue first. lastly we will tackle the timing of the IP.
 
what MrMarty51 is talking about on the RPM is these trucks have an option to have a switch that would increase the RPM when turned on. it's intended purpose was for when a PTO pump was installed on the trans made for several applications like for grain trucks or somesuch which had a hydraulic pump attached to a dump bed or fuel tank and needed a engine driven apparatus attached.

us regular hillbilly's use that option to have quick warm-ups in the winter or quicker cool-downs with the AC in the summer. it's one of those "Nice to haves" things. I can give you the info on how to install it easily with a simple toggle switch and some wires to the PCM, as well as others here can too.
 
for starters. lets begin with getting the clear hose installed on the IP return line. this way we can look for any air getting into the system.

then we need to look at the smoke too. we need to verify that the smoke isn't coolant from an internal leak in the combustion chamber.

These two things we don;t need the GMTD for.
 
OK I'm keeping up clear hose first we need to see stored codes and I really hope I don't have a coolant when I got the truck there was some coolant in the oil I read that it's due to the lack of gaskets on timing cover I couldn't see any evidence of milky coolant it was green my buddy said maybe his dad got some in top of motor when he removed radiator and intake was off I replaced all gaskets
 
keeping our fingers crossed..

on the cooling system, when you've had it running, will the system build pressure as it warms up? I know others here are more knowledgeable for diagnosing a coolant leak in the engine than I would be. I would look for how fast pressure builds in the system. if it's an immediate thing once you start it or something that gradually builds as normal.

the odor of the smoke also will tell a lot. smells of raw fuel, burning oil, and coolant are completely different.

does the engine have any blow by. take the oil fill cap off when it's running and look for puffs of smoke. will the blow by "push" the oil fill cap off if you lay it upside down over the fill hole. (not vibrate off from the engine shake)

@Will L. @WarWagon @ak diesel driver are there things he can easily look for? Y'all have more knowledge and experience than I do here.
 
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