• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

New PMD still Problems...

Caskey

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
0
Location
Bixby Oklahoma
Well just installed the new relocated pmd from pmdcable.com. Easy install no problem. Well went for a test drive to see my problem was fixed and guess what? It wasnt.

Here are the symptoms. when at idle once it reaches it normal running temperature it will sputter, like it is being choked for fuel. It will do it for around 10-20 seconds until i give it gas. Also when barely accelerating it will sputter a little then will quit.

I figured it was the pmd so i ordered the relocate kit. But now i am stumped. Any pointers? Timing off? IP bad? Thanks in advance.
 
sounds like a fuel supply issue. 95s use the ops to supply power to the lift pump I'd start there. Need to check out the lift pump thread in the stickies
 
how easy does it start first thing in the morning?
Any codes?

No problems Turn the key let the glows go then turn over and she fires right up. sliight white smoke but only on quick puff. Doesnt sputter tell its rises in temp. not that i know of check engine light hasnt come on at all.
 
Lift Pump Sticky, and recent thread here of someone troubleshooting sputtering and such

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=23040

It may sputter when warm because it slowly reaches a final idle rpm of 562 and a low advanced timing position, so a little fuel starvation or air will feel worse at those parameters. Higher rpms it can suck fuel a little easier if LP isnt running because its dead or OPS isnt functional. 94 and 95 LDs and some F trucks had some terrible low power PCM programming, especially compared to OBDII trucks with higher idles and more advance at idle.
 
I did just have a new fuel filter put in 5/05/10 and it was running great felt like more fuel was getting to it. I also put diesel clean in every tank.
 
So you need to run the lift pump/OPS diagnostics.

And to keep everything working well put 1/2 quart of 2-storke oil in each time with the PS diesel clean.
 
The diesel cleen may have loosened crud in the tank and plugged the filter.I had that happen after a large dose of power service.
 
So you need to run the lift pump/OPS diagnostics.

And to keep everything working well put 1/2 quart of 2-storke oil in each time with the PS diesel clean.
I just bought the guage and will be picking it up in the morning. Any certain type of 2 stroke?

The diesel cleen may have loosened crud in the tank and plugged the filter.I had that happen after a large dose of power service.
Alright so should i have changed again or what?
 
Any TCW3 2-stroke as cheap as you can find it, like Wal-Mart in large jug. It can be expensive other places, and by that I mean $5 a quart. Its like $2.75 a quart when you buy the gallon at Wal Mart. So a gallon will last you 6-8 fillups depending how well you measure it out.

You can run the water/sediment out the filter drain T-valve, then pull filter out and see if its dirty. If not put it back in. If filter bowl is dirty on bottom clean it out.
 
Any TCW3 2-stroke as cheap as you can find it, like Wal-Mart in large jug. It can be expensive other places, and by that I mean $5 a quart. Its like $2.75 a quart when you buy the gallon at Wal Mart. So a gallon will last you 6-8 fillups depending how well you measure it out.

You can run the water/sediment out the filter drain T-valve, then pull filter out and see if its dirty. If not put it back in. If filter bowl is dirty on bottom clean it out.

Alright ill buy some tomorrow on my to pick up the gauge. Thanks again for you help
 
Well its not the IP. Finely figured out how to check the ip (with a lot of help from buddy)iand it is running at 8psi when in drive but turnover. And at idle it is running right 5 1/2-6 psi. So now on to the next test
 
next test,replace the IP return hose(Front top of IP) with 1/4" clear tubing,that way you can observe if air bubbles pass trough,there should not be any,save for a small one in the top after shut down.
 
I bet its a dirty sock. If yes you might consider removing it and installing a spin on prefilter before LP. I know a guy that sells LP bypass fittings ):h
 
make sure the fuel filter isnt dirty, if you had some bad fuel it could clog it and you would have pressure at the drain but not so much at the IP.

Did you have any problems during the testing at idle? I wonder if your OPS works intermittently. When youre having the issue check the pressure, and check sor 12-14V on pin F of the OBD1 DLC connector under the dash while the engine is running. That is the voltage the OPS is passing to the LP. Ive seen it drop to 7V before and LP stop working, then start working again later when went back up to 14V.
 
I bet its a dirty sock. If yes you might consider removing it and installing a spin on prefilter before LP. I know a guy that sells LP bypass fittings ):h
Oh ya do? Haha I just need to make a list of stuff i need from you and order it all at once. Send me a quote on that piece thanks.

make sure the fuel filter isnt dirty, if you had some bad fuel it could clog it and you would have pressure at the drain but not so much at the IP.

Did you have any problems during the testing at idle? I wonder if your OPS works intermittently. When youre having the issue check the pressure, and check sor 12-14V on pin F of the OBD1 DLC connector under the dash while the engine is running. That is the voltage the OPS is passing to the LP. Ive seen it drop to 7V before and LP stop working, then start working again later when went back up to 14V.
No problems. Ran fine. I also only have the problem when it is in drive. As soon as i go in to park it quits (Im guessing cause of the change in rpms).
"check sor 12-14V on pin F of the OBD1 DLC connector under the dash while the engine is running." How in the world do i do that? Ill be checking the for air in the line today and also pressure again.
 
make sure the fuel filter isnt dirty, if you had some bad fuel it could clog it and you would have pressure at the drain but not so much at the IP.

Did you have any problems during the testing at idle? I wonder if your OPS works intermittently. When youre having the issue check the pressure, and check sor 12-14V on pin F of the OBD1 DLC connector under the dash while the engine is running. That is the voltage the OPS is passing to the LP. Ive seen it drop to 7V before and LP stop working, then start working again later when went back up to 14V.

Just tested again and had no problems at idle stayed 5-6 psi. Rollin down the road at did fine. I got it to sputter while hooked up to the guage and didnt see a drop pressure. So back to square one. Next i will take the fuel filter off and check it for clog etc. How do i check my fuel sock?>
 
If you have pressure you likely dont have a fuel sock problem. And if you have constant pressure even during sputtering is not an OPS issue.

So checking IP input and return with clear line is a good next step.
 
Back
Top