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NEW PMD/FSD Remote Still Stalling - low power

suby4me

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The Diagnostic Checklist:
Please fill out to best of your knowledge.

1. Describe the problem you are having in detail:
February 25, 2010
After changing the PMD module to a remote FSD Stanadyne ‘GREY’ 36976 with a resistor number 6, 7, 8, or 9 the vehicle was running rough when started... a miss type of feeling which left shortly after some acceleration. The vehicle was shut down after 3 to 5 minutes of running

Two days later the truck was started again and it seemed to run fairly well, plowed at a speed slightly above idle for about 5 minutes when it was losing power and died.

The first attempt at restart was not successful, wait about a minute retry and it restarted after about 35-45 seconds of cranking.

Then she plowed another 200 feet with the throttle to the floor and the engine barely… running like fuel starved.

She stalled again and restarted after a short wait. The throttle seemed to have little or no effect on engine rpm. The power band from the throttle seems to be nothing, hesitation – long- or full acceleration.

Went about 2 miles at about 15-25 mph and going down a long grade put it into low gear the engine rpm was varying between an engine braking and an accelerating type of noise. (A FUEL –NO FUEL delivery sense of feel.) Towards the end of the downhill grade rapid actuation of the throttle showed little or no difference.

Stopped and began a slow, 3-8 MPH uphill drive way with some power at the bottom and wondering if it would stall before getting to the top.

More stalling on flat with the engine barely running, in reverse gear, automatic, the throttle to the floor … after 15-30 seconds the RPM’s increased the vehicle moved a few feet, and then stalled again……


The throttle seems to have no correlation to engine speed at some times.



2. Year of truck/engine. Truck 1997 .. engine replaced @ 40,000 ?
3. Odometer reading (indicate miles or kilometers). 75,000 miles
4. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......). ?____
5. Indicate if you know if it’s a K 3500HD.
6. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F engine code 8th VIN digit)
7. Air Filter condition (visual check). Clean
8. Fuel filter condition freshly changed.. less than 200 miles.
9. Location of PMD/FSD? Fresh mount less than a week old behind bumper).
9a. If remote mounted, six foot wiring harness Purchased from Southeast Power Systems new Grey Stanadyne 36976 with # 6 or 9 resistor.
9b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. On the pump / I did not remove check or clean it.10. Outside Temperature (C or F). __30F °
11. Service Engine Light while running?- usually off
11a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes
12.Have you scanned for engine codes? No
12a. List exact results on engine codes.

13. Condition of Battery terminals (yes removed, cleaned and tightened).
14. Known condition and age of Batteries. Charged and pass a load test
14a. Are batteries a matched set of same age? Same age
15. Condition of Major Grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened)

16. Does engine crank, or "turn over"? yes
16a. Does engine start and run? Yes most of the time when not stalling
17. If engine does not start- Crack injector line: do you have fuel? n/a
18. Does your Wait To Start light come on?YES
18a.Number of seconds WTS light is lit. about 20 to 30 to cycle before cranking19. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer). XX

20. Are you experiencing Stalling? WOW yep
20a. Describe the event (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump, etc...)Please note above.
20b. Do you notice loss of dash or instruments? At times the dash/ gauges are not functioning correctly21. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. No obstruction
22. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now? Not applicable at this temp or time
23. Lift pump test - Describe results. Fuel at “T” ... new lift pump

24. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Have not checked25. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke?No
26. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? Not usually - only on a stall situation 27. Have you used the block heater? Does it affect engine starting? (only try for starting problems). Have a block heater and do not need it to start at this time
28. Are all glow plugs in proper working order? NEW glow plugs

29. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Not lately
30. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? Not at this time



31. Turbo check out - Pass/Fail Not completed
32. Indicate fuel that you are using: , #2 Diesel,
32a. If running Veggie Oil fuel setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade or packaged system). n/a
33. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list. Some two stroke oil was added to the last tank of diesel34. Upon unscrewing fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? No
35. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? NO
36. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. Led to indicate power to lift pump
 
Put a pressure guage on the t valve with a hose long enough to see while driving and verify fuel pressure. Sould be 4-6 at idle and never less than 1 at wot.
 
The lift pump testing needs to be more than just checking at the T, the test should be written such that you list what the pressure is with truck off, and with truck idling, and under load when possible, but first two can be telling enough usually.

Also need to check codes, what does not usually on mean, does it come on before stalling at all?

When you got the grey PMD did the harness work right? Or did you replace the harness that goes to the IP fuel solenoid?

How had the truck been running before this, and when was first problem?
 
When was the fuel filter last changed ??

SOOOOOOOOOO many complaints are related to plugged filters.

With a hose hooked to the fule drain up front, engine running, place hose in can and open the T valve. Fuel should come from the hose and flow into the can at a nice rate. If the engine dies the Lift pump and or pwer to the pump is lacking (oil pressure switch or relay)

Pressure with the engine running can be only a couple pounds as long as the flow volume is there and under hard running the pressure can be near zero but it has to have volume.

Any codes showing (SES light coming on??)

The other issue could be air entering the system.

A piece of clear hose connected to the top of the IP and to the return line will show any air bubbles.

Keep us Posted


MGW
 
Also, please check all the cable grounds, connectors, battery cables, etc. No. 13, 14, 15. Also check the connection to alternator, etc. I know it is cold and not easy to work but it is necessary. There is a write up here by TurbineDoc about all the grounds in the truck, should be a link to the thread in the Technical Library at the top of this section.

x2 on LP and fuel filter.

New LP does not mean it is working. You may become a victim of an item outside 6 sigma aka defective. So follow Buddy's guidance there.

Fuel filter can get dirty or clogged up even with a short mileage. In the winter, the chances of water in fuel is higher since water can condensate at lower temp.

Another possibilities will be the PMD extension cable. We hope that they provide you with a good cable. It is a small chance but needs to be checked anyway.
 
Gelled up fuel?

Last winter I had a new Fuel sending unit, and it had the gasoline sock instead of diesel sock, and it performed as yours is described unless I blew air into the tank, via the LP INLET. (Remove fuel cap).

I had to do this once a week until warm. I eventually eliminated this non serviceable screen with a serviceable racor unit.
 
Does your PMD extension cable have a grey or black connector on the PMD side of the cable?
I would check you fuel lines out as they could be rusted bad enough to have an air leak.
Blow out your lines also. Remove cap when blowing back towards tank.
 
Where is the best place to buy a sending unit?

Always note the amount of fuel flow out the drain. If you are not pumping enough fuel You could have a bad lift pump or a problem prior to the lift pump - probably the sock.

You can remove the lift pump, run a suction hose to a fuel can and note the flow with no restrictions.

These trucks are getting to the age where it wouldn't surprise me if there are more problems related to the tank sock and rotted sending unit lines turning up.
 
The lift pump testing needs to be more than just checking at the T, the test should be written such that you list what the pressure is with truck off, and with truck idling, and under load when possible, but first two can be telling enough usually. will do a pressure test @ T, engine not running, taken at the end of lift pump cycle. Also a volume/time test at the T with the engine not runniing

Also need to check codes, what does not usually on mean, does it come on before stalling at all? code reading at present is at a standstill. #26 After stalling it requires a long crank time and/or wait time (~5 minutes) before attempting a restart

When you got the grey PMD did the harness work right? Or did you replace the harness that goes to the IP fuel solenoid?The 6' harness and remote mount heatsink came with the PMD installed. The remote connector was connected to the old PMD lead

How had the truck been running before this, and when was first problem?

The truck has been a problem child with fuel/stalling problems for quite a while. The sending units have both been replaced due to rotted lines and gauge accuracy issues. (The fuel gauge looks like it is spinning when cranking the engine.)
 
When was the fuel filter last changed ??The fuel filter has less than 200 miles or so on it. The screen was removed, cleaned and replaced with the new filter

SOOOOOOOOOO many complaints are related to plugged filters.

With a hose hooked to the fule drain up front, engine running, place hose in can and open the T valve. Fuel should come from the hose and flow into the can at a nice rate. OK .. it sure would be nice to know: What volume in 30 seconds of lift pump on time is to be expected ____ (engine not running)If the engine dies the Lift pump and or pwer to the pump is lacking (oil pressure switch or relay)I have an LED indicator installed in the dash that lights when power is at the lift pump

Pressure with the engine running can be only a couple pounds as long as the flow volume is there and under hard running the pressure can be near zero but it has to have volume.OK

Any codes showing (SES light coming on??) code checking and attention to lights are a poor response from the OPERATOR at this time :>(

The other issue could be air entering the system.Yesterday, the Fuel Solenoid ESO was removed from the top of the IP. With the lift pump operating fuel was observed pumping 'very slowly' with NO air bubbles from the 'ESO mounting area. The plunger on the fuel solenoid was removed before reinstalling the unit as a test for operation/obstruction. The engine started (more black smoke than usual),from a cold start (30F), and truck plowed for about 5 minutes 1/4 mile; stalled, after waiting about 30 seconds with lift pump operating it started only to stall almost immediately. Towed her to a resting spot :>(

A piece of clear hose connected to the top of the IP and to the return line will show any air bubbles.

Keep us Posted


MGW

She's sitting at an offsite location presently.
 
Also, please check all the cable grounds, connectors, battery cables, etc. No. 13, 14, 15. Also check the connection to alternator, etc. I know it is cold and not easy to work but it is necessary. There is a write up here by TurbineDoc about all the grounds in the truck, should be a link to the thread in the Technical Library at the top of this section.Electrical connections and grounds were cleaned/checked about 6 months ago... they may need rechecking after digging deeper into fuel delivery.

x2 on LP and fuel filter. it's a thought after removing the fuel sol and watching fuel flow

New LP does not mean it is working. You may become a victim of an item outside 6 sigma aka defective. So follow Buddy's guidance there.volume test, "gassers pint in 30 seconds"

Fuel filter can get dirty or clogged up even with a short mileage. In the winter, the chances of water in fuel is higher since water can condensate at lower temp.
yep it deserves a double check
Another possibilities will be the PMD extension cable. We hope that they provide you with a good cable. It is a small chance but needs to be checked anyway.
Short of removing the cable and checking for continuity are there any suggestions?
 
Gelled up fuel?

Last winter I had a new Fuel sending unit, and it had the gasoline sock instead of diesel sock, and it performed as yours is described unless I blew air into the tank, via the LP INLET. (Remove fuel cap).Interestion thought... i did replace the sending units and OLD TIMERS is telling me that there may have been some difference between the old and new sock..mmm

I had to do this once a week until warm. I eventually eliminated this non serviceable screen with a serviceable racor unit.

Could you please provide more information on the 'racor' unit?
 
Does your PMD extension cable have a grey or black connector on the PMD side of the cable?grey on the new grey PMD end and black on the 'to PMD @ pump'
I would check you fuel lines out as they could be rusted bad enough to have an air leak.they beere replaced previously because of this problem..
Blow out your lines also. Remove cap when blowing back towards tank.
Any suggestion as to where to start this procedure from
 
Where is the best place to buy a sending unit?RockAuto is one source. (OE# 15708151 which converts to this SPI# FG122A is one of the units i needed. Dual tanks require two different sending units. The attached pdf has contact information for a company that manufactures fuel parts

Always note the amount of fuel flow out the drain. If you are not pumping enough fuel You could have a bad lift pump or a problem prior to the lift pump - probably the sock.yep i've got to check the tank.

You can remove the lift pump, run a suction hose to a fuel can and note the flow with no restrictions.

These trucks are getting to the age where it wouldn't surprise me if there are more problems related to the tank sock and rotted sending unit lines turning up.

check the uploaded pdf for sending unit info. it has an email and telephone numbers
 

Attachments

  • SU513SU221_000.pdf
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The truck has been a problem child with fuel/stalling problems for quite a while. The sending units have both been replaced due to rotted lines and gauge accuracy issues. (The fuel gauge looks like it is spinning when cranking the engine.)

My guage did that for some time then started doing it while driving, rendering it useless.
 
My guage did that for some time then started doing it while driving, rendering it useless.

OK... that spinning must be a thing with 1997 GMC K3500's from MA. :>).

I picked her up from a guy in MA a couple of years ago and still have not accumulated more than 300 miles since she was titled in PA
 
Any suggestion as to where to start this procedure from

Remove LP then disconnect FM inlet line, blow air back toward removed LP into a bucket. Then blow air from LP inlet (hard line) toward tank. Remove fuel cap first.
I had a bunch of crap in mine at one time, could barly get to 40MPH.
 
I know it sounds crazy but I had a similiar problem, changed LP three times , dropped tank and checked sock, changed PMD to remote and harness, changed IP. would run great for a week then always go to secondary fuel..
I changed my Cranshaft Position Sensor and it fixed it.. You can always try it. I believe I paid something like $40 from Advanced. pretty easy swap to..
 
Thank you Burning Oil, when we get her back on site there will be some of those tests including pulling the sending unit/s
I know it sounds crazy but I had a similiar problem, changed LP three times , dropped tank and checked sock, changed PMD to remote and harness, changed IP. would run great for a week then always go to secondary fuel..ok i'm lost on the secondary fuel part...
I changed my Cranshaft Position Sensor and it fixed it.. You can always try it. I believe I paid something like $40 from Advanced. pretty easy swap to..

After checking fuel system when we get her back ...CODE Reading and the cps thoughts will be high on the list of things to check
 
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