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New PMD, codes and new noises

what about cutting the plenum like buddy suggested on his picture?
I have a 45 mm freeze plug for that purpose, will that work? that was the biggest I could find in this podunk town. maybe use epoxy?
 
epoxy is what they use to seal cracked manifolds around here.. 45 mm plug will work?
also, is there a difference between 6.5 and 6.2 injectors, my neighbor says they're the same and wants me to order a set for him, but vendor says he has different injectors for 6.2
 
Nico said:
I'd been thinking about the TM thing but man, they're pricey! sounds like a pump delete and EGR block are the way to go.. is there a writeup for these procedures? also, anyone has a TM they're willing to part with?
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Except that the rattling you are hearing may be the vac pump itself on it's way out, if it locks up bad things under hood can happen, so if you are having to spend $$$ on a replacement vac pump IMO the $$$ would be better spent on the TM.
 
Nico said:
epoxy is what they use to seal cracked manifolds around here.. 45 mm plug will work?
also, is there a difference between 6.5 and 6.2 injectors, my neighbor says they're the same and wants me to order a set for him, but vendor says he has different injectors for 6.2
Click to expand...

If a piece of epoxy comes loose then it is in the intake tract path of the engine and becomes a FOD particle possibly, Foreign Object Destruction

Easier than the freeze plug is a plate .050" shim stock cut to match the outline of the EGR valve put it between the upper intake and the EGR valve that way no EGR gasses can flow.

Also since you have removed the upper intake you now need to replace the 1 time use crush gasket that goes in the center of the EGR "tower" in the center of it, that may have been part of your original problem leaking all the time making smoke all the time.
 
If you got the upper intake plenum from the "F" vin then it shouldnt have anything to cut out on it. Just plug the lower intake's EGR tower. Ive not done it so I dont know what size plug it should be, and Im not at home for the next week to measure it. I just put in a whole "F" vin lower and upper on mine.
 
Its much better to just plug the tower, then no need for gaskets to anything, all exhaust gases stop at the plug. and with the "F" upper it doesnt have the EGR holes anymore and a gasket may not line up with it. Mine didnt have that little circle on the upper intake where the valve is on the "s" types.
 
thanks for the input Doc, if you keep reading to the end of the thread you'll find that I hooked up the turbo to the EGR vacuum solenoid and that cured the smoke, (this is temporary) I got an F upper intake (might get the lower too) and that my mechanic thinks injectors are causing the rattle.

If you got the upper intake plenum from the "F" vin then it shouldnt have anything to cut out on it.
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The inner part of the F intake looks exactly the same as the original, the only difference is that th upper part has no holes for the EGR.. I might be wrong though, will look at it tomorrow and possibly get the lower too.
 
Nico said:
took the truck to my neighbor's shop for him to listen to the rattling, he messed with the timing a bit, didnt help, put back as it was.. he then asked another mechanic to hear the engine and see if he could identify the rattling, and he said injector, his reasoning was: a friend had the exact same noise in his truck, he swapped injectors with someone else and that cured the problem while that someone else went home rattling big time. Im ordering a set on fleabay now..my neighbor was also kind enough to swap my intake for an F spare that he had, I hooked up the turbo to the EGR vacuum and that cured the smoking. my question now is: do I still have to cut the inner part of the plenum and freeze plug the hole in the lower intake?
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What exactly did he do with the timing, does he know how to time the truck with the IP position and TDCO relearn with a tech2 scanner? injectors can cause noises, ticking, etc, and if you had scanner or GMTDScanTech you could disable one injector at a time to see if it goes away, and you wouldnt have to turn a single wrench.
 
What exactly did he do with the timing, does he know how to time the truck with the IP position
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He's an old man in his seventies, doesnt do computers, or scanners for that matter.. what he did was move the IP a little bit
 
uh oh, you cant just move the IP. Its electronically timed to the position it was. Now its not. So you need a scanner or GMTDScanTech to reset the TDCO value, and maybe you can retime it to -1.5 TDCO.
 
Every 94-95 OBD1 6.5TD owner should own GMTDScanTech, $200 for the software and cable, if you have a laptop or computer in the garage. It would help you in all of this troubleshooting.
 
might get it in the future, Im putting those two hundred bucks towards purchasing a set of injectors and maybe find someone with a scanner to properly time the truck albeit its been running good since yesterday. this morning I went ahead and put some gasket material between the hole in the lower intake and the plenum, hope that works. Im looking at injectors on the bay, any particular vendors I should steer clear of?
 
I got the new injectors in the mail and will be changing them some time this afternoon when my neighbor gets home from the ranch (he's the one with a custom made socket for them)
Along with injectors I got the turbo vacuum solenoid at Oreillys but it looks different than mine, the guy behind the counter said thats what came up on his computer that fit my truck.. anyhow I zip tied it to the truck, hooked the vac lines to it, and seems to be working.

Started the truck this morning, no problems at all, went to run an errand and as soon as I let go of the throttle it started shaking and puffing white smoke, and now it smokes even at idle, white grayish smoke. the codes Im getting are:
31, 32, 33, 91, 92, 93.

Y'all think the new injectors will cure this?
 
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