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New PMD, codes and new noises

You can make your own TM. It is not that difficult. Quite a few of here have made our own. I don't have pics of mine up yet, but I am sure someone does if you search for homemade Turbo Master. If not Ill try to get mine up 2 marrow.
 
If your black smoke is gone then the vac pump is holding the wastegate closed like it supposed to and youre getting boost. You still have other problems to focus on. You probably have a leaking EGR at WOT, since its supposed to be closed off then. Pull the upper intake off and put a freeze plug or something into the huge EGR tower sticking up in the middle of it.

I am like the one person that recommends keeping the vacuum system if the vacuum pump is good. A solenoid is cheap not too expensive if thats all you need, and fixing vacuum line is super cheap with some hose to slide over the hard plastic lines if they are cracked or broke.

The manual wastegate helps a lot on a stock PCM program, so most people do that, and its great, but dont know how the vacuum system works with a well tuned program. Making one is simple if you just look at it. need a 1/4" rod, thread the end of the rod, 90 degree bend the other end of rod and cut it shortly after bend. Cut your vacuum actuator open and put rod through the hole, put pretty strong spring on with something to retain it and put nut on threaded end. Just need to also have something to hold the rod into the wastegate lever hole, like notch the 90 degre bent piece and put a C clip to hold it there. And if you didnt understand this just stay with vacuum system.
 
it still smokes but not as bad as before and it also coughs big puffs of white smoke along with the black under heavy acceleration, I had to put all the vac lines back where they belong per the old's man request (he's driving the truck not me, and for some stupid reason he thinks the truck responds better with everything in place)
You probably have a leaking EGR at WOT
Click to expand...

this is what worries me, the rattling not only happens at WOT, it starts pretty much as soon as you start asking for some quick power (it doesnt do it if you hit the throttle smooth and gradual)

solenoids look cheap, I'll just replace that but EGRs are damn expensive, how can I get rid of it without having to swap it for an F one?
 
Like mentioned, freeze plug the tower in the lower intake, then just make a blockoff plate where the EGR valve is, bolt it down over some gasket maker or gasket material. Simple. Then, with a cutting tool or grinder, proceed to cut out the restriction in the upper plenum that used to be for routing exhaust gases.

Just get the one solenoid, the turbo boost solenoid. Its the front one. There should be a diagram of how they are supposed to be hooked up on the radiator cover. Make sure they are correct. make sure again you have vacuum from the vacuum pump source line going into the solenoids. Then hook it up and check vacuum out the other port of the turbo solenoid with the engine idling. There should be vacuum through the turbo solenoid at idle. If there is no vacuum making it there then you have a vac line broken, but if you do and not through the solenoid then its just a bad solenoid.

Plugging the EGR is a good idea anyway, but the imbalance could also be a bad/fouled injector. Exhaust leak or injector can make a ticking racket.
 
you wont understand if you dont take it off. Just go take off the upper intake plenum, and all will be revealed. Or you can find pictures on here from others that have done it.
 
Yep, freeze plug that center tower in the lower, thats where exhaust is entering from the heads. Just hog that upper intake plenum out around the center hole, and you need to make a plate to cover where the EGR valve was. You can be sly and make it the shape of the EGR and still bolt the EGR valve down so it looks like its actually installed.
Upper Plenum.jpg

You can see how you could cut the vacuum canister and run your own 1/4" rod through it to the wastegate lever to make a manual wastegate actuator.
GM4 turbo_exhaust elbow removed-labeled.jpg
 
I think I'm gonna hog the intake later today when the truck gets home, but couldnt find a damn freeze plug bigger than 45 mm in this whole town, y'all think 45 will do?
'nother question about the turbo issue, since the turbo solenoid is bad and I will no longer be using the EGR one, if I just connect the turbo vac line to the EGR solenoid will that work? diesel parts arent readily available here, and getting a solenoid means a trip to TX to get it.
 
Nico said:
I think I'm gonna hog the intake later today when the truck gets home, but couldnt find a damn freeze plug bigger than 45 mm in this whole town, y'all think 45 will do?
'nother question about the turbo issue, since the turbo solenoid is bad and I will no longer be using the EGR one, if I just connect the turbo vac line to the EGR solenoid will that work? diesel parts arent readily available here, and getting a solenoid means a trip to TX to get it.
Click to expand...

Nope it wont work the EGR doesnt get its signal from the ECM based on boost prssure.
 
I went through some trouble shooting with the EGR codes on mine before I deleted my EGR.

On the OBD1 with EGR you will need to hook up the vacuum lines as indicated on the schematic located on the fan shroud. You can then plug the vacuum line off that feeds the EGR valve ONLY. If all the solenoids & vac pump is working you should not get any codes for the EGR. My OBD1 would go into dummy mode when the EGR code would come on and it did some very interesting things with the Baro sensor reading and the wastegate control would get goofy for the boost control.

Here is a link to another post I just made with a schematic of the vacuum routing for OBD1
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showpost.php?p=291602&postcount=2

HTH's
 
took the truck to my neighbor's shop for him to listen to the rattling, he messed with the timing a bit, didnt help, put back as it was.. he then asked another mechanic to hear the engine and see if he could identify the rattling, and he said injector, his reasoning was: a friend had the exact same noise in his truck, he swapped injectors with someone else and that cured the problem while that someone else went home rattling big time. Im ordering a set on fleabay now..my neighbor was also kind enough to swap my intake for an F spare that he had, I hooked up the turbo to the EGR vacuum and that cured the smoking. my question now is: do I still have to cut the inner part of the plenum and freeze plug the hole in the lower intake?
 
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