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New and random stalling issue

Will is right, your truck is now considered a classic. your truck is about to turn 30 years old! think about the rubber hoses coming off the tank sending unit, and any other fuel lines, brake hoses and more. it's all done it's job and then some!

if your fuel tank is full or has more than 1/2 a tank, if you have the means, you might think about pulling the bed off. iirc you can access the tank sending unit directly without dropping the tank this way. plus you get to see and fix any other can of worms back there in the process along with cleaning the frame and protecting it with a coat of rust converter while your at it. once you get all the things fixed, before you reinstall the bed you can easily throw a landscape timber across the back with a set of trailer lights or even those magnetic mount lights on the frame and take it for a drive without the bed in place.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Will is right, your truck is now considered a classic. your truck is about to turn 30 years old! think about the rubber hoses coming off the tank sending unit, and any other fuel lines, brake hoses and more. it's all done it's job and then some!

if your fuel tank is full or has more than 1/2 a tank, if you have the means, you might think about pulling the bed off. iirc you can access the tank sending unit directly without dropping the tank this way. plus you get to see and fix any other can of worms back there in the process along with cleaning the frame and protecting it with a coat of rust converter while your at it. once you get all the things fixed, before you reinstall the bed you can easily throw a landscape timber across the back with a set of trailer lights or even those magnetic mount lights on the frame and take it for a drive without the bed in place.
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And for that same reason, about aging hoses, every hose related to the fuel and cooling systems on My truck is getting new hoses.
Split the crimps on the steel lines of the return pipe and new hose is getting shoved on, aaand, I had to wait the extra time to get 5/16ths SAE30R9 hose through Amazon.
Found a nice deal on a spool of 5/16ths USA made Continental hose.
That was the only size that Quadstar does not send in the Air Dog kit.
So beware, if anyone switching to that very nice Air Dog kit then be for ordering that 5/16 diesel fuel rated hose ahead of time and have it waiting.
 
Will L. said:
It’s when there is enough air collected at the moment.
A small amount can mess with the optic sensor. More is simply interrupting the hydraulic pumping of the fuel, or some air getting pushed to the injectors.

Annoying as all get out. I never want to fire the parts cannon without diagnosing first. You are definitely diagnosed. You can fiddle-fart around one area or piece at a time - or turn on the radio and start cranking the parts out. Drop tank(s), ensure everything is perfect there. Replace any metal line in question. Replace all the rubber lines with sae30r9 or higher (higher is r10 / r11 but is thicker, stiffer to work, and more expensive and need better clamps). Speaking of which- best clamps you can afford. See YouTube “project farm” for which ones. New VITON orings wherever they exist. “GASOILA” for the pile threaded parts. Fuel-line.com for the clear line at the ip. You decide if you want clear between ffm and ip now our testing so far says good for 5 years but idk about extreme cold. Sae30r9 is the safe bet there long term. Do not forget the fitting into the ip itself. Clean that lil screen while it’s out and you check that sealed fitting.

Imo just do it all now, get it 100% and you are done messing with it for years. The only risky part I recommend is the tiny risk in 5 years of that clear line at the ip.
ALWAYS worth it because filter swap goofs happen.
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Just spitballing but what about stainless steel braided fuel lines?
 
They work great so long as the innards can hold up to the newer fuels over time. if your are up in the rust belt area or live near the coast, go all stainless where possible. fuel lines, brake lines, trans, oil and all.
 
If you have stainless steel line - bend it in slow radius bends. You could have solid line from the ip back to the ffm when mounted on the intake manifold. It would have to be secured like the injection lines are. That would work great.

You still need a flexible line that goes from the truck frame/body to the engine.
That could be a 6” piece. The rest could all be stainless tubing for it. I would still use the sae30r9 for the little flexible spot. Depending where it sits actually- maybe the clear line would work.
 
I just got thinking about it when I was looking at Rock Auto and autometer sells stainless braided fuel lines. I'm pretty sure my local hose supply can make up the lines in whatever length I need.
 
revyd said:
I just got thinking about it when I was looking at Rock Auto and autometer sells stainless braided fuel lines. I'm pretty sure my local hose supply can make up the lines in whatever length I need.
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You have to make sure they are rated for ethanol/ methanol. It’s in our diesel fuel now and deteriorates it from the inside out. Most of it is not capable of withstanding it.
 
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