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New and need sugestions/help

coopin87

New Member
Messages
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Location
Fredericksburg VA
Well guys I have been debating the purchase of a 2000 6.5 TD crew sle 4x4 DRW for about a week. I finally decided to purchase it after driving it over 100 miles with no issus even though it has an exhaust leak on the crossover pipe and some oil leaks temperature stayed real low but it was also 30F. Anyway I want to really go through this and make sure all the maintenance and known issues are worked out below is the list of things I think should be done im just trying to figure out best places to get all of it and what order to do so in. (Previous owner installed 3.5" custom exhaust from downpipe back)

This is what I have so far:
1. Glow Plugs (Bosh) x8 they are not up to par (hard to start without block warmer being used)
2. Harmonic Balancer for piece of mind (do i go with AC delco or fluid damper)
3. Tensioner Pulley (AC delco or?)
4. Valve cover gasket as driver side seems to be leaking a bit in the back corner
5. Intake Manifold Gasket (Boost Guage needs to be hooked up)
6. Lubrication Specialists oil line kit (a link to this would be greatly apreciated)
7. Extention Cable to move PMD to the front bumper off the upper manifold
8. Replace the custom 3 1/2" exhaust with Diamond eye (found on ebay for $260 shipped)
9. 3" Diamond eye downpipe (ebay $70 shipped)
10. Cross Pipe not sure if that is what its called (trying to find the best one any sugestions?)
11. Fuel Filter
12. Front Tires and allignment

Im sure there are things I have forgotten about but I want to make this 13 year old truck reliable as possible since it will be my main tow rig. Granted I only tow my boat in the summer and it is about 4,000 lbs loaded on a dual axel trailer with hydraulic brakes (that are not working atm).

I know all the items above are not cheap but i want to get them all taken care of as soon as possible so that I can start enjoying my new rig. Any and all sugestions would be great. Also what order you guys think I should do these things in. Im ready to order parts now so if there is a perfered site or actual links to these things you guys have that would also be great. I have glow plugs, HB, Fuel Filter, Tensioner Pulley, Valve Cover Gasket, and intake gasket pulled up on Rock Auto now just wanted to check here before I pulled the trigger.
 
check with leroydiesel for alot of the items that you need and a few you probably didn't know you needed. vendor here and a great guy. i'd go ac delco for the tensioner and if you can afford it a fluiddamper. you need guages soon as you build/modify you can keep an eye on things
 
sounds like your good! another good one is a fuel pressure guage plumbed to take it reading just before the IP. stock LPs are junk and don't last long which will also contribute to hard starting
 
I just checked out his site. Great stuff on there I'm thinking I may need to just give him a call on monday to see if he has everything I need. That would be very convinient. There are some things on my list that I didnt see on the site and im thinking he either hasent added them to the site yet or could get them. Thanks for the info guys and if you have any other pointers or things i should check for on the new rig please let me know.
 
153,000 give or take a few ... looks to be origional motor and trans.

Sounds like a good time to swap out injectors, bosch, Delphi and stanadyne are good brands for injectors. You can also have have your original injectors rebuilt with bosch nozzles. Which ever you decide be sure they are pop tested, 2200-2300psi
 
Sounds like a good time to swap out injectors, bosch, Delphi and stanadyne are good brands for injectors. You can also have have your original injectors rebuilt with bosch nozzles. Which ever you decide be sure they are pop tested, 2200-2300psi

It's funny you mention that when I was about to leave the guys house he said ohh wait I have a set of injectors for this in the garage. What he gave me is a set of marine injectors from SSDiesel. Are these any good? Is there a thread anywhere on how to replace these with pictures?

Just found the FD HB ... holy cow $400.00 for a HB. Is it really worth it?
 
You missed the last group buy before the price went through the roof but look at it this way. I am on my 3rd dorman replacement in 120K miles and they cost ~$80 each, I'm at $240 for dormans + time involved for an inferior part. When your balancer goes it typically breaks the crank, I have a magical engine that has survived 2 separated balancers. I bought a dorman to get back on the road again and 2 weeks later I bought a FD and will install it before this one fails and is the straw that broke the camels back.
 
You missed the last group buy before the price went through the roof but look at it this way. I am on my 3rd dorman replacement in 120K miles and they cost ~$80 each, I'm at $240 for dormans + time involved for an inferior part. When your balancer goes it typically breaks the crank, I have a magical engine that has survived 2 separated balancers. I bought a dorman to get back on the road again and 2 weeks later I bought a FD and will install it before this one fails and is the straw that broke the camels back.

what about the AC delco replacement? The dorman is $45 AC delco $65 and FD $400. But from what you just said I will stay away from dorman i guess.
 
Added to the above:
Tune for the truck with extended glow times as the newer plugs are higher voltage and are self regulating, but, heat slower than the old factory plugs. Thus, they need more glow time.

Towing on any grades I recommend getting a bigger turbo like the A Team Turbo kit. It gets better power, more MPG and runs cooler then the undersized factory turbo esp while towing.

SS Diesel is more or less hated here and deserve to be.

Front end may need parts from bushings on the A arms, ball joints, to idler arms.

You should replace the old worn out fan clutch at they are rated for a 5 year life tops. My favorite being the low temp Kennedy Diesel unit. These engines hate to be run over 210 and crack up there. A clean radiator and condenser are a must - worth it to have it tanked at a radiator shop or outright replaced esp at that age and miles. There is a mat that builds up behind the oil coolers to plug airflow.

Change the diff oil and trans oil should be done every 25K miles.

Fix the trailer brakes!!! :rolleyes5:
 
So are the injectors from ssdiesel junk (marine ones)? I have a box I got with the truck that has brand new ones in it. looked them up and they are $425 for what I have. Should I put these on or get something else?

As for the trailer brakes Pulled it all last summer with no breaks :WTF: and didnt even notice it. Was pulling with a F250 with the v10 lifted on 37's. Either way its on my list of stuff to do.
 
How many miles on it? Consider new or rebuilt injectors for peace of mind.

You can do the Lubrication Specialists oil kit and I did that on my '99, but they also offer stainless lines to fit the stock oil cooler which will save you some money.

Tensior pulley go AC Delco

Yes on the Diamond Eye Exhaust and Downpipe; Warpspeed for the Crossover pipe (google search it).

Bosch Glow plugs on RockAuto for like $58 for 8 (use the discount code via google search) plus shipping.

Probably need to go through the entire front end: pitman arm, idler arm, tighten steering box, possibly tie rods, upper control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints. This is big job, but most of it is definitely doable at home. Search posts on these here forums.
 
I ate a delco in in 60K (new when I bought the truck) and dorman in 40K, decided to go back w/ dorman and I was on the road so didnt get to order the final bill was ~140 for pulley and balancer, I replace them in pairs.
 
I ate a delco in in 60K (new when I bought the truck) and dorman in 40K, decided to go back w/ dorman and I was on the road so didnt get to order the final bill was ~140 for pulley and balancer, I replace them in pairs.

I gotcha thanks for the milage. I will just go with the ACdelco since it lasted 60k ... then just buy another one in 50k miles since it will take me a while to put that many miles on it (years).
 
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