• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

New 6.5

Goose57 said:
Thanks Gentlemen for all the suggestions. I was looking at the super 54 kit because it sounded good to upgrade to from reading info on their website. Remember I new to these motors and still trying to learn.
That’s why I am on here asking questions and getting suggestions. I really don’t want to tear apart and probably won’t tear into a newly built engine. Does an installation of a fluid damper help with the balance or is it just for durability ? I thought the new Optimizer an improvement over my old GM motor. I hope I haven’t misled any one on building a new reliable motor. I have read that some of these motors get up to 300,000 miles on them. I do think keeping there motors cool helps with the longevit. I do and keep up on maintenance on my vehicles. Any suggestions on any mild upgrades on a turbo or should I just put the same stock one back on it. I’m not looking for a HD tow vehicle even though it does have a low geared rear end hell I am thinking about lowering it a little if this build goes Ok. Any suggestions on a tech 2 or a good service manual? Thanks again boys I really appreciate the input.
Click to expand...
QuadStar tuning has a nice turbo kit, as well as Leroy Diesel.
The main thing is to get the PCM tuned to the new turbo and Your driving habits.
 
The optimizer is better than the gm engine.
The problem is, it is still lacking. Buy 3 and run them exactly the same, 2 can hit 300,000 and one will die under 200,000.
They do not have really great cleaning, don’t have great clearancing, etc.

Taking the time/ money to do the fine details is what makes them have far better chances to run long lives. Doing things like having the rotating assembly balanced and the injectors balanced is what makes it run smooth, better rate of acceleration, etc.

You should be perfectly fine just installing a new crate engine. I am of the opinion that investing another $2k into the new engine is worth it. Then like many things if you can diy you do it yourself for less or spend the same amount and get more out of it.
Chris is right- DO NOT try to learn on it.
But the advantages of a balanced engine is major on these engines because they are so amazingly out of balance from the factory.
The addition of gapless rigs is huge for light duty diesel Because it slows the amount of carbon getting in the engine oil. There is more but those should cover a lot.

So strongly consider having it done if you can not do it.

As to the fluidampr balancer, it is a good idea,
But I believe the interior work should be done inside the engine before installation first.

Tha factory balancer will be good for 100,000 miles Or could be done at any time before then.
But interior changes obviously can not
 
Having the turbo match application is biggest thing.
The tune is a definite helper with the ds4 ip. That tune is controlling how much fuel and when it comes in. Can control the power band.
If you are going to ever add wmi- that should be accounted for as well when setting up the tune.
Here is the hang up… where you are hundreds of miles from anything, and since you are not trying to roll coal to look cool- a tune SHOULD BE NO BIGGIE. But…. hug the earth protecting agents are coming down like sulfur on sodom. So everyone under the sun is afraid to talk about it or sell it or anything. So determine your fine details of the turbo, what power, etc and call a supplier. If they don’t have anything available, don’t get your feelings hurt. If they do work with you, shut your yapper about it and move on because we are hoping the ape (did I spell that wrong?) relaxes over it since our engine is not the mega pollution type of diesel. But not hitting key words and phrases their bots search for is a smart move just incase.
SD part is 99.99% of us honestly don’t want any visible cloud nor any extra toxins. But we get grouped in with 17 year olds…
 
Will L. said:
The optimizer is better than the gm engine.
The problem is, it is still lacking. Buy 3 and run them exactly the same, 2 can hit 300,000 and one will die under 200,000.
They do not have really great cleaning, don’t have great clearancing, etc.

Taking the time/ money to do the fine details is what makes them have far better chances to run long lives. Doing things like having the rotating assembly balanced and the injectors balanced is what makes it run smooth, better rate of acceleration, etc.

You should be perfectly fine just installing a new crate engine. I am of the opinion that investing another $2k into the new engine is worth it. Then like many things if you can diy you do it yourself for less or spend the same amount and get more out of it.
Chris is right- DO NOT try to learn on it.
But the advantages of a balanced engine is major on these engines because they are so amazingly out of balance from the factory.
The addition of gapless rigs is huge for light duty diesel Because it slows the amount of carbon getting in the engine oil. There is more but those should cover a lot.

So strongly consider having it done if you can not do it.

As to the fluidampr balancer, it is a good idea,
But I believe the interior work should be done inside the engine before installation first.

Tha factory balancer will be good for 100,000 miles Or could be done at any time before then.
But interior changes obviously can not
Click to expand...
I agree with investing in the new motor to get more out of it but my trucks be down for awhile I would like to get it back together before winter. Also the hassle of shipping the new motor off for upgrades. I do not tow any thing and my truck is usually empty. I’m not very hard on it and keep up on the the repairs myself. Will installing the fluid damper on an unbalanced Optimizer do more harm than good? I do have a question is it the high turbo back pressures or the high boost pressures that hurt these motors? I believe I’ve read the stock GMx turbos have higher back pressures. Thanks Will.
 
Will L. said:
Having the turbo match application is biggest thing.
The tune is a definite helper with the ds4 ip. That tune is controlling how much fuel and when it comes in. Can control the power band.
If you are going to ever add wmi- that should be accounted for as well when setting up the tune.
Here is the hang up… where you are hundreds of miles from anything, and since you are not trying to roll coal to look cool- a tune SHOULD BE NO BIGGIE. But…. hug the earth protecting agents are coming down like sulfur on sodom. So everyone under the sun is afraid to talk about it or sell it or anything. So determine your fine details of the turbo, what power, etc and call a supplier. If they don’t have anything available, don’t get your feelings hurt. If they do work with you, shut your yapper about it and move on because we are hoping the ape (did I spell that wrong?) relaxes over it since our engine is not the mega pollution type of diesel. But not hitting key words and phrases their bots search for is a smart move just incase.
SD part is 99.99% of us honestly don’t want any visible cloud nor any extra toxins. But we get grouped in with 17 year olds…
Click to expand...
Yes Will you spelled it wrong💁lol. I dont want any more toxins in the air I’m having trouble breathing as it is I don’t get my feeling hurt to late in the game for that bullshit😎. I am on Medicare you know😎. That’s what I am do on here is trying to match a turbo for new motor without detonating it🤯. I don’t need 20psi of boost just a little so I can tell the difference from what I had. What the💩 is wmi or did you spell that wrong too🤔.
 
Since your rig is a 95 (OBD1) there are not many folks who will or even have the equipment to do anything PCM parameter related. I have all the equipment to flash the chips and have made some minor tweaks on my own rig for boost pressures (vacuum controlled) and some fueling with glow plug timing for an old worn out engine. I am no expert and a lot of this stuff I really don't know what I'm doing other than just trial and error with my own rig.

First check with the forum vendors to see what they offer in the rhelm of this matter, then if no one will do a tune then maybe we can hopefully get enough info to at least disable the "de-fueling" and over-boost protections so that you can run your rig without a check engine light and without it going into limp mode.

I would offer make those changes on your existing PCM free. But the thing is, we need to make sure were not stepping on any of our supporting vendors toes. after all they are the ones who help keep this site free for you and me!

but this would be the last resort kinda thing as well as you want your engine in and running problem free in stock form first. last thing your want to do is introduce a new issue on top of any existing ones!
 
dbrannon79 said:
Since your rig is a 95 (OBD1) there are not many folks who will or even have the equipment to do anything PCM parameter related. I have all the equipment to flash the chips and have made some minor tweaks on my own rig for boost pressures (vacuum controlled) and some fueling with glow plug timing for an old worn out engine. I am no expert and a lot of this stuff I really don't know what I'm doing other than just trial and error with my own rig.

First check with the forum vendors to see what they offer in the rhelm of this matter, then if no one will do a tune then maybe we can hopefully get enough info to at least disable the "de-fueling" and over-boost protections so that you can run your rig without a check engine light and without it going into limp mode.

I would offer make those changes on your existing PCM free. But the thing is, we need to make sure were not stepping on any of our supporting vendors toes. after all they are the ones who help keep this site free for you and me!

but this would be the last resort kinda thing as well as you want your engine in and running problem free in stock form first. last thing your want to do is introduce a new issue on top of any existing ones!
Click to expand...
Thanks, I though sold a chip for the OB1?
 
Dbrannon 79 is correct in that you want the engine up and running correctly before you start introducing variables such as a re-tune. Advantage with the OBD 1 tune is that the three vendors I'm familiar with (though I only get tunes from one of them) is they now just send you a new chip w/o so you can keep your original or, if you want, can order additional ones so you can get performance, towing, or Economy (Econeuter) etc. Another option if you're a multitune player is Quadstar's Multi-position set up. Seems pricy initially but, if you want two or more tunes, its less expensive than $350-$395 each.

OBD I Tunes:
Quadstar TUNING: $350. Site states "After completing an order, we will provide a comprehensive online form for you to fill out with all vehicle details and your tuning preferences. The tune is then created and we send a completely new chip for you to swap in, with instructions. No core returns are required!" https://quadstartuning.com/collections/custom-tuning/products/obdi-single-tune
Quadstar also sells a 3-8 position set up for $600 so you can step things up or down. https://quadstartuning.com/products/obdi-multi-position-tuner

Leroy: $385 https://leroydiesel.com/products/kojo-tune-for-obdi-and-obdii/ "...we can have tunes made for most any combo of other brand turbo or power adders."

Heath/Diesel Store: $295 if you don't send in your old chip, $395 otherwise. Non-site vendor so no links. Two basic tunes offered: Towing or Performance. Call and ask for a consul to get more personalized beyond the manual boost controller or not & Stock or Aftermarket Injection Pump. Things like desired shift points, TC Lockup, max boost, aftermarket Turbo etc.
 
Paveltolz said:
Dbrannon 79 is correct in that you want the engine up and running correctly before you start introducing variables such as a re-tune. Advantage with the OBD 1 tune is that the three vendors I'm familiar with (though I only get tunes from one of them) is they now just send you a new chip w/o so you can keep your original or, if you want, can order additional ones so you can get performance, towing, or Economy (Econeuter) etc. Another option if you're a multitune player is Quadstar's Multi-position set up. Seems pricy initially but, if you want two or more tunes, its less expensive than $350-$395 each.

OBD I Tunes:
Quadstar TUNING: $350. Site states "After completing an order, we will provide a comprehensive online form for you to fill out with all vehicle details and your tuning preferences. The tune is then created and we send a completely new chip for you to swap in, with instructions. No core returns are required!" https://quadstartuning.com/collections/custom-tuning/products/obdi-single-tune
Quadstar also sells a 3-8 position set up for $600 so you can step things up or down. https://quadstartuning.com/products/obdi-multi-position-tuner

Leroy: $385 https://leroydiesel.com/products/kojo-tune-for-obdi-and-obdii/ "...we can have tunes made for most any combo of other brand turbo or power adders."

Heath/Diesel Store: $295 if you don't send in your old chip, $395 otherwise. Non-site vendor so no links. Two basic tunes offered: Towing or Performance. Call and ask for a consul to get more personalized beyond the manual boost controller or not & Stock or Aftermarket Injection Pump. Things like desired shift points, TC Lockup, max boost, aftermarket Turbo etc.
Click to expand...
yea P I seen the ones from Quadstar. I just made a big purchase from them DS4 LP and various other parts. As I said in my other post I need to figure out which turbo I’m going to go with before messing with a tune. Thanks
 
I found some links to manuals over on the DP fourm. I also have a copy of the torque specs that was posted here that I can post the link to later after work. I will see what I can find and share them.
 
Thanks db, yes I’ve been trying to use the one on DP. Boy I really like the one you have on Google Drive. Thanks. Also thanks to you and Chris for the torque specs it will be a big help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top