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New 6.5

Thanks guys for all the info on the IP,s I am 2 yrs. new to these diesel engines. I’m an old gasoline mechanic trying to learn. I think after some of the info I got on IP,s on here it has to be my biggest concern on my Optimizer build. I’m not sure about the conversion to the DB2 and messing w/ the wiring And sourcing a trans. controller and making it work. I think after doing the research on sourcing these pumps its still a crap shoot. I purchased my Optimizer from Leroy’s and I’ll ask him about his reman. pumps assembly fluid, shelf life etc. every time I called or mailed him he responses back or picks up the phone. Thanks again guys.
 
I looked this morning on the jungle site for a Delco IP. it seems they no longer show one from the AC Delco Store. the only one they show is an "Amazon Renewed" IP which means someone purchased it and returned it, they supposedly tested it and said it can be resold. here's the link. note the seller under the description!


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Thanks guys, Leroy sometimes gets his IP,s Dorman, Flight systems GBM etc. Recommended having an authorized Stanadyne dealer re build mine. Here is the nameplate on my pump. What is that white sticker
under the metal I’d plate? Maybe this pump was replaced at one time? Anybody ever sent their pumps out for a rebuild? Any recommendations? Thanks Gus.
 

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Goose57 said:
Thanks guys, Leroy sometimes gets his IP,s Dorman, Flight systems GBM etc. Recommended having an authorized Stanadyne dealer re build mine. Here is the nameplate on my pump. What is that white sticker
under the metal I’d plate? Maybe this pump was replaced at one time? Anybody ever sent their pumps out for a rebuild? Any recommendations? Thanks Gus.
Click to expand...
I used a place in Michigan
Diesel Injection Service LLC 430 54th St SW Grand Rapids, MI 49548 (616) 531-1030

and Triangle Diesel in Irwin, Illinois -

triangledieselinjection.com

Triangle Diesel Injection of Kankakee

Just another WordPress site
triangledieselinjection.com triangledieselinjection.com
 
Goose57 said:
Thanks guys, Leroy sometimes gets his IP,s Dorman, Flight systems GBM etc. Recommended having an authorized Stanadyne dealer re build mine. Here is the nameplate on my pump. What is that white sticker
under the metal I’d plate? Maybe this pump was replaced at one time? Anybody ever sent their pumps out for a rebuild? Any recommendations? Thanks Gus.
Click to expand...
I used Conestoga Diesel with good results.
 
The normal thing to recommend to be a requirement is new head and rotor, unfortunately those are the main components of the pump and exactly the items stanandye quit making first. If they have new ones on the shelf still - pay for it to be replaced because finding those parts is insane now. That is the key to long life from the pump.


Having 8-14 psi at all times measured at the ip inlet is the insurance to a good pump not getting worn out in a couple months.
When it gets installed add the fuel pressure gauge tap similar to the one or buy it from Mod Mafia sells and mount a digital gauge in your dash. The factory lift pump AC Delco EP 158 is the best version of the original lift pumps but will not maintain optimum pressure.
Unfortunately to get a quality lift pump runs a few hundred bucks. Imo the fass with their filters is a great replacement for lift pump and the factory filter. Buy once cry once theory.

This becomes pay a lot now and have it be reliable long term or nickel and dime over the long term. Some guys justify the expenses by keeping the old working “so-so” parts and can install them back on to sell the truck if they decide to and use the higher end stuff on their next rig, or sell for half price as used.
 
Thanks Will that’s good info. Yes I plan on upgrading the LP and lines and filter. I didn’t go with rebuilding mine, hope I made the right decision. I ordered a reman. one from Quadstar (to get things going faster😎), after reading on their web site about their rebuilding process and qualified techs.
 
Hi guys I have another question🤔. It about installing and lining up the timing marks on the new IP I will be installing on my Optimizer build. I think I’ve asked this before. I’ve read in the manuals here about indexing the marks on the cam and IP gear. I believe I’ve read the cam gear mark should be at the 12 o,clock and the IP gear at 6 o,clock🤔. Nowhere have I read that the #1 engine cyc. Should be at TDC or does it even matter. Isn’t the IP just like a distributor 💁? I’m an old gasoline mech. and used to lining up the timing marks w/ the #1 cyc. at TDC on the comp. stroke. I should have checked this on my old engine but it’s in a metal dumpster somewhere🤯. Still trying to learn. Thanks guys. PS😎. Has anybody ever used a cut up junk distributor to insert into the oil pump shaft hole at the back of the motor and prime the engine w/oil? If so what distributor was used? 8 cyc. Chevy, Ford etc.? Thanks again.
 
Yes- you should think of the ip exactly as a distributor. Driven off cam timing and all is how to understand that it is timing the ignition of the engine. One CRITICAL difference = NEVER adjust the ip timing when engine is running. Shut it off, make adjustment, snug 1 nut and restart. When timing is correct tighten all 3 nuts.


Pull the glowplug for #1, hand crank (not starter) till compression is blowing out the hole. Bring timing mark to zero. Remove all electrical connections & fuel lines from ip. Remove oil fill tube, remove the 3 bolts from gear to ip. Remove the three 12point nuts that hold ip time adjustment. Swappy swappy.

Then comes the computer part. Personally I suggest a 3lbs sledgehammer for the computer, others prefer aspirin.
 
Hi boys, more questions. starting to source parts for my new Optimizer build. The GM CKP sensor is discontinued, is an AC Delco sensor Ok. I need to source a turbo was looking at a super 54 kit. Is this too much pressure for this build. I’ve read there is no distinct clear line on safe and unsafe pressures on these motors (still learning😎). i guess it depends on the build. I’ve already committed to a rebuilt DS4 from Quadstar. As I stated before I have a new Optimizer from Leroy’s , upgraded to a 4” exhaust and updated crossover pipe. Also was using manual TM waste gate controller. I believe I have all of my trucks updates in my signature. My old motor I believe put out 7-8 psi so I should be able to tell the difference on this new build specially since I found out, low compression on my old motor
Should I be worried about higher pressures w/ 54 and a new Optimizer? Oh I am going to invest in a fluid damper also💁. TSP mentioned upgrading the new Optimizer head studs, crank girdle, balancing, etc. I m hoping this new stock Optimizer will handle more boost🤔 Even though already committing to the DS4 IP limiting fuel supply. I’m going to also do some fuel supply upgrades Fasst Lp, remote high flow fuel filter kit and larger DS4 IP fuel inlet fittings. I also am going to invest in a Tech 2 scanner and a good service manual for my truck, any recommendations? Thanks boys!!!
 
If your going to run a turbo anything different than the factory one you will need head studs. since your spending on a new motor, the balancing is a must and the crank girdle too. TSP knows what he's talking about

without any of the above, these engines cannot handle anything over 14 psi of boost without risking lifting the heads, blowing head gaskets, and cracking main webs in the block.
 
From what I've read on here, 14 psi is max boost for GM turbo

For any engine, 18psi is max boost for head bolts. Anything above you'll want head studs.

If going to bigger turbo and head studs, you really should install a CAC/ intercooler as well. People have run studded engines without a CAC, but you're only going to shorten engine life and I don't think you'd want that with a new build

Highly recommended to at a very minimum get the rotating assembly balanced. Only around $300. If you want best longevity for this platform's bottom end then it's splayed mains and halo girdle
 
You purchased a new crate motor.. yes ?

To balance the rotating assembly it will require full disassembly, that means every bolt, rings, separate pistons from rods, etc...

That is a major undertaking for a novice in my opinion. Everything has a certain way it is in the block, ie the rods face a certain way front vs rear etc.

As much as a balance job would help putting things back together wrong WILL kill the motor.

If you have never been that far in one of these my advice is don't attempt it with a crate motor.

If you are capable then by all means go for it.

And you'll pay around 500$ for a pression balance job, that's generally a + - .020gm tollarance.
 
Thanks Gentlemen for all the suggestions. I was looking at the super 54 kit because it sounded good to upgrade to from reading info on their website. Remember I new to these motors and still trying to learn.
That’s why I am on here asking questions and getting suggestions. I really don’t want to tear apart and probably won’t tear into a newly built engine. Does an installation of a fluid damper help with the balance or is it just for durability ? I thought the new Optimizer an improvement over my old GM motor. I hope I haven’t misled any one on building a new reliable motor. I have read that some of these motors get up to 300,000 miles on them. I do think keeping there motors cool helps with the longevit. I do and keep up on maintenance on my vehicles. Any suggestions on any mild upgrades on a turbo or should I just put the same stock one back on it. I’m not looking for a HD tow vehicle even though it does have a low geared rear end hell I am thinking about lowering it a little if this build goes Ok. Any suggestions on a tech 2 or a good service manual? Thanks again boys I really appreciate the input.
 
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