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New 6.5

You need to be more specific. Many of us here don’t get upset when a rebuild crushes the $10,000 mark. A couple of the builds on here break $20,000.

Get the better crankshaft, p400 rods and pistons which get machined down to 18:1 or 18.5:1. Gapless rings, halo girdle, better lifters & springs, roller rockers, larger push rods, diamond precups in p400 heads ported and larger valves, block flashing removed and okl drain down clean up, clearance out and flow the oil pump, everything fully coated & balanced of course and then sent to chryo treatment.

Lets talk about better fueling and turbo:
Still running a ds4- correct that and go to db pump is best, shy of that the rare ds4 that Rubber Duck sells, or a custom one built for even more fuel. Just know a well built db2 will still stomp the best ever built ds4. Going to db4 isn’t even a fair comparison.

Turbo- he351, hx35/40 hybrid, ATT, there is a lot of options before looking at twins, or compound turbos. Then air to air or air to water exchanger makes huge differences.

Then there is stuff like WMI and propane that help long life and performance if set up right. Stuff like NOS is power only at high risk of damage so I stay away from that.

I rattled this of top of my head so I know I had to miss stuff…
 
Cooling upgrades: all aluminum champion radiator, GM water pump for a 2000+ 6.5 engine, D-max fan from a 2010 Express van with a 6.6l, and the electro-viscous fan clutch from the same 2010 Express van. Hayden electric fan controller.

this gives you the ability to command the fan clutch on at your desired engine temp plus have an override switch in the cab as well as have it come on when the AC is running. the above credit for this goes to @ak diesel driver


if your sending the trans off for a rebuild / refresh, have the torque converter replaced with a triple disc version so you won't blow out the converter towing a load. iirc @WarWagon knows about that.

Fuel system: like Will said, if you can afford to convert to use a mechanical DB2 IP you will be able to run just about any fuel including homemade stuff without issues. also a set of balanced injectors. Injectors are an item that gets replaced on 100k mile intervals. Of course converting to mechanical injection will require you to invest into a stand alone trans controler and ditch the PCM on the truck.
 
Goose57 said:
Thanks Glad that is what I am looking for. Look like a clean installation bravo! 👍. Got the motor and trans out all by myself 2days worth of work. Still have to get it on the stand and send the trans. out for a refresh. Are there any up grades worth doing while I have it at the shop?💁. I plan on a bunch of new parts and or upgrades. Upgrades: IP ?, Turbo ?, LP ? any suggestions ? high vol. WP, cooling fan, fluid dampener , exhaust and trans temp, fuel press. gauges. Air intake box. Already have boost gauge. Parts: ING,s GP,s and wiring, motor and trans mounts, Trans. oil and PS. coolers. Rad. and coolant res. Already have Leroy,s upgraded oil lines😎. CK sensor, turbo oil lines and return pipe. I have a spin on fuel filter set up from Leroy,s to install. Fuel tank and fuel hoses. Go through engine bay wiring. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Nice job on how you anchored the engine on all four corners before you pulled it out.That’s how it should be done👍
 
Hi all still waiting for my new optimizer from Leroy’s. He said the regular shipping company quit shipping. I’m going to put a new IP on the new motor. Is there anything I need to pay attention to when removing the old pump from the old motor. Should I mark the position of the old pump and install the new pump on the new motor in that location? Thanks Gus
 
Goose57 said:
Marty you the man. I was looking all over for that info, you read my mind. Might as well put new steel lines on huh? Even though the old one look Ok. Thanks again
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If the old steel lines are not bent and twisted out of shape, and, they align well with the nipples on tue positions where they belong, and they do not leak then I would just run with the originals.
 
Thanks Man, i think my new motor is finally on its way waiting til it gets here until purchasing new IP and Turbo among other things from Leroy’s. Boy this going be costly. Better than a new truck🤔.
 
My Optimizer finally got here from Leroy’s. 506 seen in the valley is this the good one? Does this one have the arp studs? On picture shows an oil drip on bottom of oil filter. I asked Leroy if they ran the engines before shipping I believe he said they may have cold ran them before shipping What ever that means. in the timing chain picture it show the dot on the gear almost at twelve o’clock and the slot on the balancer almost at 12. Do I move the gear with the dot to 12 o’clock and install the IP gear with the dot at
6 o’clock to get the static timing right? And where should the slot on the balancer be. my engine has a crank sensor on it. Also do I have to remove the valve cover to verify that #1 cyc. Is at the top of it compression stroke like gasoline engines? Now the real work begins. Figuring out where all the different bolts go. I did bag and tag some but not all😂. And figuring the rats nest of all the wiring hook ups. I also did tag some but not all. Let the journey begin. Boy I have to buy a lot more stuff.😩
 

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I’m am getting ready to purchase parts for my build. I can’t find a new DS4 IP anywhere just reman. Also would also like to install a new turbo. Was looking at a Hole shotx35. Also a Walbro LP. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks Gus.
 
I will let others suggest the right turbo for you, but there are no more "NEW" hard parts being made for the DS4 IP's. all you can get is a reman unit rolling the die if it has a good head and rotor. I would suggest converting to a DB2 mechanical IP. check with your local regulations to see if it will still pass inspections before doing the conversion. the biggest hurdle you will have to jump is if you have an auto trans. you will need a way to control the trans since the conversion eliminates the PCM on the truck.

as for a lift pump. FASS is the best but is hard to swallow with the price.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I will let others suggest the right turbo for you, but there are no more "NEW" hard parts being made for the DS4 IP's. all you can get is a reman unit rolling the die if it has a good head and rotor. I would suggest converting to a DB2 mechanical IP. check with your local regulations to see if it will still pass inspections before doing the conversion. the biggest hurdle you will have to jump is if you have an auto trans. you will need a way to control the trans since the conversion eliminates the PCM on the truck.

as for a lift pump. FASS is the best but is hard to swallow with the price.
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Best deal out there for DS4 reman IP is AC Delco on their Amazon store. No core charge and free shipping with Prime. 2 year warranty.
 
Idk about getting from amazon. if going that route I would react out and go direct to the seller or at least making sure it's covered by Delco's warranty. I just recently ordered a AC delco lower rad hose off amazon for my truck and ended up receiving a gates hose. the hose had a paper sticker with the delco numbers on it but the hose it's self was embossed with the gates logo. I kept it since it was gates and not some other knock off.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Idk about getting from amazon. if going that route I would react out and go direct to the seller or at least making sure it's covered by Delco's warranty. I just recently ordered a AC delco lower rad hose off amazon for my truck and ended up receiving a gates hose. the hose had a paper sticker with the delco numbers on it but the hose it's self was embossed with the gates logo. I kept it since it was gates and not some other knock off.
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I called AC Delco and they said they would not honor warranty when bought through RockAuto, but would bought through the AC Delco store on Amazon. IP has worked flawless and haven’t needed the warranty. Anyone else is going to stick you with core charge and shipping costs.
 
Big T said:
I called AC Delco and they said they would not honor warranty when bought through RockAuto, but would bought through the AC Delco store on Amazon. IP has worked flawless and haven’t needed the warranty. Anyone else is going to stick you with core charge and shipping costs.
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That is good info. That gives me some hope for when that day comes I need another IP. I did not know they would honor warranty when bought though amazon! can you link the one your bought? I'm a bit weary on amazon sellers. in the past searching I have seen stores pop up called different names like with and without the word "the" and without "AC" in AC Delco and what not. I recently watched something on yourtube showing how sellers now have to register their "brand" or business on amazon and how many there are where folks from China and other places are now registering random letters and numbers that cannot be pronounced. it's crazy!
 
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