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Need some electrical info from the experts

Thanks gentlemen, I'll be back at it right after coffee. Maybe I'm either too stupid or making this thing too complicated. Will, I did find the knock sensor plug coiled up inside this shield.. Thanks again for your help, about to go out to the garage and see what else the little darling has in store. Thanks again Will. Richard.
 
Here is the latest saga of " as the wheel turns ". I always try to stay with design intent on any project. In this case that was the dumbest design I have ever seen. Even considering the previous jack legs that supposedly knew what they were doing, there was a much better way of routing the wiring. So out with design intent and in with a better and shorter cable rout. My way is 10 inches shorter and not close to a heat source. Being I am changing all the cables to prestolite thats a pretty big deal. I have located the HUGE 4000 CAT BATTERY in the tool box in the bed. I am assembling a single power source connection in the small " tool box " located next to the ECM. Super duty buss barr and presto instead of led cables stacked onto the positive terminal. I'll post pictures when I am a little closer to being finished. Please remember, I don't mind constructive criticism as long as it's not vicious, just please have what you perceive as a valid point . WE ARE ALL SMARTER THAN I AM. y'all have a great evening, Richard.
 
Quite an odyssey on this truck, I've had my troubles too moving from and early '80's van to a '96 GMC and learning about the new weatherproof connectors was greek to me at first, now that I've done the O2 sensors I now have an understanding. From the Jeep forums I belong to there some really great electircal threads that've helped me out on my old CJ5 and my GMC. The find of the Romex blew my mind on this thread, but then Jeeps have thier share of P.O. hacks.
I'm a believer in dedicated grounds and it worked so well on my Jeep, in a limited way I've done the same on BBB, my GMC. What I've done in this regard is rob the bimetal bus bars from derelict fuse panels at the junkyard and Hab for Humanity cut it to length and then with a minimum of 6 gauge from the battery with all copper lugs crimped and soldered, I then wire the body, frame and accessory ground to it. I've then slathered the works with dielectric grease and while there are other products for oxidation control, I seem to continue to have great results over the last 30 years.

Here's one of the electrical threads that I refer to often;
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/been-reading-good-book-jeephammer-833631/#post7724128
 
Thank you for your thoughts on damion. I kinda had to walk away for a few days so I could refocus. I restarted work on a little Fox body Mustang I have. Lo and behold the first thing I put my hand on was a brown drop cord running from the fire wall and thru the passenger side fender apron!!
On the truck, I'll grab a couple of pics to show the new positive attach point for the ecm and all add on"s. The truck didn't need it but was just something I wanted to do. I'm sure I will get both positive and negative comments.
I didn't change the grounding paths but did add an extra cable and cleaned contact points. Thank you again for your interest and thoughts. Richard
 
Here are a few pics of the new load control attach points. Also the battery and prestolite battery cable. The plan is to make a negative connection point, just don't know where yet. Gentlemen, this is the perfect time to get a few shots off at me on why this is not a good idea. Thank y'all, Richard.
 

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Here's where I put that bus bar right next to the battery on the inner fender;

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Now thats what I am talking about. Great idea on the panel buss bar. I would have never thought of that. We are both going in the same diection with cabling and I am using the copper lugs and soldering, crimping theology as you. I really liked the drawing showing placement of grounds. I studied it pretty closely and compared it with what I am doing. Only difference is location plus I learned a few thngs. Thanks for your time and effort. I live by the theory WE ARE ALL SMARTER THAN I AM. Richard
 
I'm hip that a top post battery is not stock, but I just detest side post batteries for various reasons, I like easily being able to check contact conditions with the terminals and I think the contact point is broader as well leading to greater continuity.
Since installing the backup alarm on 'BBB' behind the rear bumper on the left side I noticed another frame ground that's likely tied to the aft lighting. I'll be addressing that at some point as well.
 
What I done was sit at my welding table one day and just made up probably 20 ground cables in varying lengths and sizes. Now when I either need to replace or add to I go to the box and match up one thats very close. Have a great day, Richard.
 
That's great to have everything pre-fabbed. I would like to add that insofar as the battery cables I used welding wire, it's more heavily jacketed, way more flexible and the fine wires therein add to continuity.
 
This is just the 2/0 welding cable I pick up at Indstrial Welding when I'm doing battery connection projects. It's the same wire JeepHammer refers to in that linked thread, it's great stuff!
 
I'm sure it's Prestolite and you will NEVER do better than that. No one can say you did it wrong by using this cable, well I guess they can because I see people every day and wander how can they find their way home. Amazing, Richard.
 
I just found a spare piece of it, the maker is Flex-a-Prene, Heavy Duty, made in the USA. Top photo shows comparision with standard el-cheapo found at Advance Auto and their ilk.

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The shrink wrap is 3M, with heat activated adhesive for absolute protection from the elements.
 
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Yepers, manufactured under a different name. Hair like strands. I actually saw a man try to use 2/0 a.c. cable one time. He couldn't understand why this didn't work. He said " look how big this wire is, why is my truck hard to start". I guess giving him an Ugly's Electrical Reference book would have been out of the question. Richard.
 
The only drawback to welding cable is the oil, heat& fire stopping ratings. There is a version of it that is made for marine use- I can’t remember the number of it, but it is almost twice the cost of battery cable.
 
It seems odd that welding cable, resistant to slag would not be heat resistant (or oil or fire) but then I'm no expert. This is just what I've used over the years and in one of the rigs I had in the past that had an engine fire (related to fuel) there was no sign of damage to the welding wire, that I recall. Perhaps I was just lucky.
 
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