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Need help with my 99 6.5 Tahoe please

Thanks for compliments on the two diesels. No dash light doesn't come on. I will wire them back. The Tahoe starts so much easier. Other then that this 95 is awesome. Runs mint. Rides good but feels like she needs a new suspension.

My main focus will be the Tahoe but this 95 is now my dd so if I can wire her back and get her to start easier that would be sweet! Thanks Will.
 
Which should I buy the Bosch or ac delco? Oh yeah Tahoe at 60mph 1.5 rpm suburban at 60mph 2.0 rpm
 
That does bring a good question. Can we help Bosch or AC Delco to mfr them in USA/Canada? Hmm.

If we all start calling/ emailing, including you guys that are on multiple sites, I bet we can make a difference. Both are equally quality products at similar prices. I'm willing to pay a touch more to put a neighbor to work.
 
Will, that's part of the problem with the USA economy. We as a country don't really produce much of anything anymore besides movies, music, overpaid sports stars and babies. I too would be willing supporting many upon many products if they were manufactured here in the USA. It would be great for our economy because it produces jobs in turn we don't send the US Dollar abroad which weakens our currency, it would also stimulate our economy because the more jobs the more people work they make money... Then they spend more money too.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Another thing to remember is a 99 should have key on lift pump prime for easier starting.
Click to expand...
Okay so the reason the 99 is easier to start is it has key on lift pump prime which means once the key is turned to the on position the lift pump primes which makes it easier to start. Is that correct? If so... Can I get the same set up on my 95 which lacks the key on lift pump prime feature?


tanman_2006 said:
Good looking rigs! You will enjoy both once you get them sorted out!
Click to expand...

Thanks they are both very nice. The 95 is in much better condition then the 99. The 99 sounds louder, whole dash makes loud rattles and noises <-- will be fixed soon. The body on the 95 is near perfect and interior is perfect. Yes the 95 has red intrior but i actually like the red interior. The 99 had no back seat when I bought it and the back seat is very very hard to come by. I got very lucky and was able to find one but had to pay $500 for it. Now I have to have it reupholstered to match the gray interior on the 99. The 99 also has to southern comfort seats which don't match but are very comfy on long trips(driving home from fl 832 miles when I bought it) they also have longer fold down arm rests and one on both sides which is nice but the stock front seats look better they aren't as big as the southern comfy seats..

The 95 only needs a few things. New power mirror switch, fuel gauge reads correct then goes crazy then fluctuates then goes back to reading correct then crazy and over again. The rear I want to change. I get a bang every once in a while while driving her. I think it's the rear end. Power windows don't up up as fast as they should but they do go back up. That is it. The more I drive her I will see if anything else pops up.

The 99 I am going to put a lot of time and as much money as I need to just to get her into better condition then she currently sits.

I want to do ground kits on both of them. I also want all steel braided oil cooler lines, tranny cooler lines, brake lines... Any lines I can do steel braided I want to do. First I need to fix the leaks on the 99. So depending on the leaks if they are any lines that I can replace with steel braided I will.

The 95 will come after the 99 with the exception of the glow plugs because that makes for easier starting which I need because I am going to be driving her everyday.
 
When you do the window regulators/motors- get the good AC Delco, the cheap ones only last a couple years. Cheaper in the long run to get the good ones. That's for gmt400 and gmt800. I learned the hard way on both.

Check with Leroy before ordering anything. He carries a bunch more than is on his site, and service second to none. And we are helping a Texan- that's always good.
 
6.5TD.Club said:
I used to upgrade all my lines to steel braided. Do they have them for these trucks and are they good?
Click to expand...

Shameless vendor plug so he doesn't have to. :cool:

http://leroydiesel.com/product-category/engine-lubrication/

You rev up a gas engine for power. You rev up this diesel engine for power as well. It's a short stroke high speed diesel. Other diesels like a 5.9 Cummins have a long stroke and can develop HP and TQ down low.

This isn't one of those diesels. Seriously let it breathe and REV it up!!!

It needs RPM to make HP to back up the torque. It was designed as a 305 gas engine replacement. Then GM added a "Asthma Attack" small turbo and a super tight converter not understanding the platform they were working with. This engine really needs a larger turbo and ability to bypass the low power low RPM band to get out of it's own way. Say like a 2400 RPM stall converter. They make gensets that run at 3600 RPM all day long so don't worry about extended high RPM. I don't.

A good tune should wake the engine up with a better turbo assuming the exhaust is 4" and the intake snorkel restriction has been removed from the fender.

The Diesel Tahoes are nice and highly valued. But NOT for towing.
Frankly I wouldn't tow a Bar B Q on a hitch extender with the Tahoe. :yuck: Never-mind the undersized and red hot overheated brakes just stopping itself, INOP out of adjustment rear drum jokes, weak transmission... It's the instability of the short wheelbase platform itself where it doesn't take much for the tail to be wagging the dog.

The Suburban is the better choice, but, brakes are needing an upgrade with Wagner or Raybestos semi metallic pads and shoes. Yes the rear set costs over $100 and you smile and pay it over the ice skate store brand s#it because they stop on a dime and give you change. Upgrades to the brake system - yes GM's brakes for these years need all the help they can get. Yes, you manually adjust the drums every other oil change. <-- That's a period.
 
ak diesel driver said:
2k rpm at 60 sounds too high. should be more like 1800. I wonder if the torque convertor isn't locking?
Click to expand...

My girl and I drove the 99 diesel Tahoe up to Greenville NC to buy the Suburban. Driving back we spoke on the cell phones and compared RPM's at different speeds. Here is a shot from our ride back of my RPM's in the 95 BURB.

speed-rpm.JPG
As you can tell by the pic... first my gas gauge wasn't going crazy and my speed was about 72 MPH @ 2.5 RPM the 99 Tahoe 6.5 was doing the same speed 72 MPH @ 2 RPM's. Now I was thinking... The suburban might not get as good gas mileage as the Tahoe because at higher RPM's you burn more fuel... Please correct me if I am wrong. So my rear is geared differently then the Tahoe, Right?

Or might the difference in RPM's at the same speed between the two be because the Tahoe doesn't have the stock wheel size and the suburban does????

The Tahoe is running 18' rims and I don't even know what size tires. Now taking that into account I was wondering how that would affect RPM's...ETC...

Even though the suburban was running higher RPM's I was surprised to see that I only burned 1/4 tank of fuel all the way back to my driveway. It was a total of 202 miles.

Now if the 99 Tahoe and 95 suburban are running different gears in the rear which would be better for towing? The suburban is 8 lug but a 1500 model not 2500.

Also does the Tahoe have a 42 gallon fuel tank like the Suburban?


WarWagon said:
Shameless vendor plug so he doesn't have to. :cool:

http://leroydiesel.com/product-category/engine-lubrication/

You rev up a gas engine for power. You rev up this diesel engine for power as well. It's a short stroke high speed diesel. Other diesels like a 5.9 Cummins have a long stroke and can develop HP and TQ down low.

This isn't one of those diesels. Seriously let it breathe and REV it up!!!

It needs RPM to make HP to back up the torque. It was designed as a 305 gas engine replacement. Then GM added a "Asthma Attack" small turbo and a super tight converter not understanding the platform they were working with. This engine really needs a larger turbo and ability to bypass the low power low RPM band to get out of it's own way. Say like a 2400 RPM stall converter. They make gensets that run at 3600 RPM all day long so don't worry about extended high RPM. I don't.
Click to expand...

Okay now the 1999 Tahoe has a Holset HX 35 Dodge Cummins turbo, 3 inch down pipe to stock exhaust, aem air intake. The Suburban is stock I am guessing. I know the PMD was relocated. The Suburban has just as much pickup as the Tahoe with the bigger turbo.

WarWagon said:
A good tune should wake the engine up with a better turbo assuming the exhaust is 4" and the intake snorkel restriction has been removed from the fender.

The Diesel Tahoes are nice and highly valued. But NOT for towing.
Frankly I wouldn't tow a Bar B Q on a hitch extender with the Tahoe. :yuck: Never-mind the undersized and red hot overheated brakes just stopping itself, INOP out of adjustment rear drum jokes, weak transmission... It's the instability of the short wheelbase platform itself where it doesn't take much for the tail to be wagging the dog.

The Suburban is the better choice, but, brakes are needing an upgrade with Wagner or Raybestos semi metallic pads and shoes. Yes the rear set costs over $100 and you smile and pay it over the ice skate store brand s#it because they stop on a dime and give you change. Upgrades to the brake system - yes GM's brakes for these years need all the help they can get. Yes, you manually adjust the drums every other oil change. <-- That's a period.
Click to expand...

Okay I don't really know if any other mods/upgrades have been done to the Suburban but the first owner did have the PMD relocated to inside the front grill and also do the not so good slow nogo glow plugs which I was already advised to change. I guess if those two things were done maybe there are other mods. I am not really qualified to be able to tell at this point :confused:. So I will take pictures of the engine bay tomorrow in the AM and throw up some detailed pictures for all of ya'll to see.I edited to add this.. The suburban brakes are actually REALLY REALLY GOOD!
 
6.5TD.Club said:
. . . my speed was about 72 MPH @ 2.5 RPM the 99 Tahoe 6.5 was doing the same speed 72 MPH @ 2 RPM's.
Click to expand...

Based on those RPM's the Burb probably has a 3.73 rear (which is common). Also, as mentioned, make sure the TCC is locking (feels / sounds like a 5'th gear when you hit ~50 mph).

The Ho might have a 3.42, but the question is whether those different tires have the same diamater as OE. If they are the same diameter as OE, then you are basically Ok. If they are a different diameter, the question is whether the PO modified the VSSB to account for this. When the two of you compared RPM's on the drive home, did you also compare indicated speeds? If so, and the speeds were close (within a few mph of each other), then the Ho either has OE tire diameter or the VSSB was adjusted.

RPO codes in the glove box will show what the acutal rear ratio numbers are.


6.5TD.Club said:
The 95 . . . fuel gauge reads correct then goes crazy then fluctuates then goes back to reading correct then crazy and over again.
Click to expand...

This is common. Get with Leroy. You want the MRFSU. Get two of them (one for the Ho and one for the Burb). And while you are installing the MRFSU (which requires dropping the tank), remove the in-tank filter (aka: sock) and install a spin-on filter just upstream of the lift pump (again, get with Leroy).


In terms of which vehicle will get better fuel economy, chances are that the Ho will get a bit better than the Burb due to weight and the rear gear. But I'd not expect a significant difference if you are sticking to the Myrtle area as the TCC will not lock much (need speeds of 50+ mph to lock), so the tranny will slip and give-up efficiency for most of the commute.
 
TCC lock is at 45 MPH +-. You can lock lower in a tune, but, the OEM TC clutch is too weak to hold on a good grade with moderate throttle below 45 MPH.
 
Will L. said:
That does bring a good question. Can we help Bosch or AC Delco to mfr them in USA/Canada? Hmm.

If we all start calling/ emailing, including you guys that are on multiple sites, I bet we can make a difference. Both are equally quality products at similar prices. I'm willing to pay a touch more to put a neighbor to work.
Click to expand...
Post up a link with a good number to call. I will make a call and share the post around

If you go with AC Delco use only AC Delco 60G Glow plugs
 
Okay I just got off the phone with Dave the PO of my Tahoe. Suburban gas tank 42 gallons Tahoe is either 28 or 30 gallons. He wasn't 100% sure about the Tahoe gas size so it might be wrong but he thought 28 or 30 gallons.
 
If tunes are stock the power will be similar no matter what common swapped turbo you have in.

Hx 35 isn't bad with 3.42s and a non towing rig. If you want a good towing turbo the A Team from Leroy will make you want drag race while towing! Otherwise keep the vacuum system in shape as it gets better mpg than a turbo master.

Keep reading and searching, your mind will explode with the knowledge floating around this site.
 
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