• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Need help with hard miss with cylinder balance fault codes

That's the plan. it's due for an oil change anyway. I had considered changing it before our trip to the coast since it was about 100 miles away from hitting 3k since the last change. now it needs it for sure. besides not knowing what caused that bolt to back out though the threads seemed fine and all the others were also not torqued (got another 1/4 turn when I checked them). if I have to go back in later for the same issue, I'd have to redo gaskets again along with what Will said about a thread repair insert.

I am curious how long it's been loose enough and the PCM constantly adapting for it trying to balance the injectors till it couldn't anymore and coded. I wonder if my fuel mileage will improve or have better power and responsiveness on the road now.
I am curious how all of them loosened up. I did not use loctite when I installed mine after replacing buttons, but I’ll get a shot again when I go after the leaks and use the Leroy girdles.
 
I’m only assuming that someone before me might have been into the engine maybe didn’t torque anything down.

I also forgot to mention that while I was pulling and installing the bolts for the buttons I noticed two of the push rods had some surface rust on them like the engine had been sitting or exposed to water at some point. Maybe it has had head gaskets replaced at sometime in its life.


I’m curious too when this went south and the PCM coded. The service engine light never came on. I know it works, it turns on with the key and it’s on now due to the sensors on the upper intake not connected.
 
I pray that them cover gaskets do not leeeeek.
Also, on the lower intake manifold bolts, did You use PTF sealer on some of the bolts and a gasket type sealer on the second from end bolts ?
At least thats what the Chiltons book says to do.
Book did not mention using any kind of thread locker on the rocker arm shaft hold down bolts so I installed Mine dry. I hope those dont work loose.
 
unfrotunatly no sealant on the intake or bolts. when I had done t he cover gaskets before, I just cleaned surfaces and laid the intake gasket in place, no sealant and bolted down. never had any issues. I'm hoping it sealed this time around.

Once I get the upper installed I need to get some carb cleaner and do the spray test to see if the intake has any leaks.
 
unfrotunatly no sealant on the intake or bolts. when I had done t he cover gaskets before, I just cleaned surfaces and laid the intake gasket in place, no sealant and bolted down. never had any issues. I'm hoping it sealed this time around.

Once I get the upper installed I need to get some carb cleaner and do the spray test to see if the intake has any leaks.
I've used grease on the intake gaskets when reassembling without issues. Not sure if it helps or hinders, but it seemed to work.
 
Got it finished up. Took it for a test drive and all seems good. No issues yet. I will have to keep an eye on the driveway for oil drips and monitor oil levels.

Used some brake cleaner around the intake listening for any rpm changes. All good there

Even attempted to fit the k47 air box sent by Big T. It all fits perfectly, only need to locate the elbow that comes from the box to the rubber boot unless it’s all one piece up to the turbo. Put back the old air box for now.

Just need to go pick up some oil and change it.
 
Back
Top