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Need help with hard miss with cylinder balance fault codes

I went fourth tearing into the engine. So far I haven’t found anything yet. Got the passenger side valve cover off and all the buttons and rockers are intact. I still have the driver side to open but my suspicion is something deeper with all the blow by I saw earlier.

It was not easy getting in under the turbo to get the lines off. We’ll see tomorrow about the driver side and go from there.

6A7632F2-B714-43A5-ADE7-B71A6AFEBCDA.jpeg
 
I unscrewed the bolt with my fingers and looked at the threads, there is no evidence on the bolt threads that it has pulled out of the head and the bolt was smooth when unscrewing it. looking online I found an attachment @Twisted Steel Performance posted on another thread that shows these bolts need to be at 40ftlbs if torque. the shaft is lifted ever so slightly but does not look cracked with out removing it.

I think I am going to torque it down and check the rest. unless others say I need to look at or do something else.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I unscrewed the bolt with my fingers and looked at the threads, there is no evidence on the bolt threads that it has pulled out of the head and the bolt was smooth when unscrewing it. looking online I found an attachment @Twisted Steel Performance posted on another thread that shows these bolts need to be at 40ftlbs if torque. the shaft is lifted ever so slightly but does not look cracked with out removing it.

I think I am going to torque it down and check the rest. unless others say I need to look at or do something else.
Click to expand...
This the bolt for the rocker arm shaft?

Replace the buttons while you’re in there. They are cheap and it’s a quick job.
 
I'm also debating on doing anything with the buttons, I'm tempted to do the bolt mod while it's apart but not sure if I should even touch them. it's gonna take a week to get new buttons in and my daughter called last night needing the dodge because her husband's car he discovered his rim is cracked to the point the tire won't hold air. they don't know how it happened ether.

with the Jetta down, my truck down, their car down, and the only spare vehicle being Ole' Betsy the dodge. it's not a good time for us to have everything break!
 
Big T said:
This the bolt for the rocker arm shaft?

Replace the buttons while you’re in there. They are cheap and it’s a quick job.
Click to expand...
Yup the bolt on the shaft! I have the 6.2 on the stand if the shaft is cracked. that I guess is a good thing. I will look around and see hope one of the local auto parts houses might have the buttons in stock. but I doubt anyone would have them. Home Depot is just around the corner from us. if all else fails, I guess bolts nuts and washers might go in!
 
dbrannon79 said:
I'm also debating on doing anything with the buttons, I'm tempted to do the bolt mod while it's apart but not sure if I should even touch them. it's gonna take a week to get new buttons in and my daughter called last night needing the dodge because her husband's car he discovered his rim is cracked to the point the tire won't hold air. they don't know how it happened ether.

with the Jetta down, my truck down, their car down, and the only spare vehicle being Ole' Betsy the dodge. it's not a good time for us to have everything break!
Click to expand...
I get that. My Honda is down, but the ‘94 Suburban is running great. I was looking at finally doing the GMT 800 rear axle swap on the ‘94 Suburban, but I can’t risk taking it down while the Honda is down waiting for a clutch replacement job.
 
Don't lose hope yet. When we did Ted's repair, he'd been pulling a Duramax on a heavy 5th wheel trailer. He noticed his issue around mid-Wyoming. Thought it was a bad injector. Got a new one and, of course, no joy. Drove it across the rest of Wyoming doing a couple of oil changes enroute to my house which is south of SLC on 7 cylinders. No damage from the push rod. New Button, new oil, no more issues. This was on a motor he used to replace the wrecked one I bought off him.

Check oil pressure next start up. Is it higher than normal? Could be a sign and an explanation of the increased blow by.

Feel ya on the downed vehicle thing. Touareg's diesel particulate filter (DPF) finally plugged enough to set code and engage perma-limp mode. No DPF's in the system so the car is deadlined until further notice. Son's car is down for a few reasons so he's got the truck. Spousal units need their cars so I'm stuck typing out bad advice on TTS until a vehicle frees up.

Hang in there boss.
 
Just torqued down the passenger side. None were torqued I probably got a good 1/4 turn out of the other bolts before it clicked!

No one has the buttons called our local Chevy dealer and they could only get their hands on 8 of them for Monday and would have to get the rest in about a week unless I paid over night freight! I want to replace with new but I’m not sure if this is the whole problem. So I’m torquing them down and putting her back together without spending much money and see what happens. If she runs, great, if not I guess she’s gonna be parked. I think I need to turn my attention to the 6.2 on the stand and see if it’s a viable engine of not
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yup the bolt on the shaft! I have the 6.2 on the stand if the shaft is cracked. that I guess is a good thing. I will look around and see hope one of the local auto parts houses might have the buttons in stock. but I doubt anyone would have them. Home Depot is just around the corner from us. if all else fails, I guess bolts nuts and washers might go in!
Click to expand...
Do they have them on Amazon?

Fridays a bad time to order parts. Won't have them until at least Monday
 
Amazon shows them but not with prime. Ended up getting about $30 in hardware from Home Depot. Couldn’t find any pinch style lock nuts so I grabbed some red thread locker too. Now it’s assembly time
 
Out with the plastic in with steel

Using 1/4” x 3/4” bolts, 1/4” flat washers, and 1/4” nuts. I figure grade 5 should be good enough since it was placing holding them in place. Had to do a triple stack of flat washers to make up the thickness of the button and the diameter is slightly larger than the button but the rockers still have play and move freely. Also using some red never come off juice on the bolts too. Gonna get them all done and button up the engine and see what happens.

image.jpg
 
Man, how did I miss all this excitement in just over a day!
If there is any question when you tighten those bolts- get heli-coil kit (or it there is better brand use them).

Before putting the covers back on, disconnect the fso and have someone crank it while you watch all them operate properly.
It is possible timing chain stretches enough to jump time and have piston smack the valves. HIGHLY UNLIKELY- but better to see it at slow speed instead of when it’s running.

Drape a towel (best to use the wife’s favorite ones for excitement factor) over each inner fenderwell and other stuff. Then fire that puppy up and let her shoot some oil around. See how it runs before the covers go back on.
 
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