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My Water to Air intercooler install

If you use water soluble oil, same as water wetter ratio.

The water wetter is the optimum blend, but the regular oil can usually be had free from machinists in small amounts , so a good cheaper option that's better than none.
 
I am no expert but am still a bit skeptical. Air bubbles or voids can siphon through a small hose I have done that but larger voids, like the end tank of the IC and end tanks of radiator under the truck, I don't see how a vacuum can pull all the air "under water" or through I imagine what are variations of something like a P trap. Yeah, a vacuum can draw fluid but 25" of water is nowhere near a complete vacuum so I wonder if air voids are still left.

I can see the advantage of the vacuum filler pulling initial fluid inward and not pushing extra air into the system by pushing the air in the hose (from the expansion tank/reservoir to radiator) towards the system. But evacuating all the air I am not so sure about.

Saying it similarly maybe the size of the fill hose is small enough and the vacuum is small enough that the fill rate doesn't fill the whole hose cross section (from reservoir to system) and it doesn't extrude the extra air towards the system.

Kind of similar I think the larger the hose the harder to pull a siphon and it may depend on the "curvature of the loop" and how high you have to lift the fluid. Kind of similar I have to get all the air out of my pool vacuum hose before I attach it to the skimmer or the pump cavitates. I am not sure the vacuum the pump can pull. It just might not be enough?
 
That guy got 25 inches of vacuum where he's at (elevation) and with his air pressure and volume. If you use the very best vacuum pumps here in Las Vegas when doing an air-conditioning system you cannot draw more than 28 inches of vacuum. Don't confuse a small number of inch vacuum compared to higher psi air pressure for being low in force.

Even when you get a bubble of air in the pickup line, when it is done filling you will see it push out the air bubble as it nears 0. Here the Lambo and Ferrari shop guys all use it out of a true need. Any trapped air in the Diablo creates havoc, not just a little overheating problem, it will smoke the heads and block in 1/2 hour.

I was skeptical when I first saw it and thought "tool junkies only". But after watching one guy school another in the shop it was an obvious difference.

The pro mechanic it's an obvious choice just for the time savings alone. For the convince of it a homemade kit is easier to swallow. Finding a used one is almost impossible. When I was on the tool truck I had 20-30 guys in line for a repo one to save a few bucks. When they went on sale it was like wildfire. All I had to do was leave a demo unit at a shop for a week and 1/2 the guys would order one within 2 months. (Amazon beet me up on some things).
 
I finally got the temp switch for the fans installed tonight. I borrowed some left over heat conducting epoxy from work but found out that the Part B was pretty much dried out when I went to use it. After I scuffed the switch and the radiator with a sanding pad I mixed what I could and applied the switch. I decided I would also use zip ties for insurance and just that pressure broke the bond. It should be ok with just the zip ties but I may try to epoxy it again some day. I also made a jumper to carry with me in case I have troubles with this switch so I can just go back to a hard wired setup anytime. It is nice not having those fans howling as soon as you turn the switch on. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Will point taken. I read a bit about the tool and it does seem to work well. I was thinking it could be used to get the air out of a system incorrectly. You have to start with an empty system and drain the fluid. It is not meant to extract fluid but can help. Some systems you have to vacuum then drain again and pull another vacuum. I watched one youtube video of a guy using it on the reservoir tank then again on the radiator. So some systems vary. I still am not sure it will fix a bad loop situation but can see it works.

I have always been a little amazed how you can create crazy high pressure 100,000 psi plus but there is only ~ 14.7 psi vacuum. And the incredible force it can make like sticking 2 or more jo /guage blocks together.
 
Let us know how the fan switch works. How long it takes to come on daily driving and when it cuts off. Interesting stuff.
 
schiker said:
Let us know how the fan switch works. How long it takes to come on daily driving and when it cuts off. Interesting stuff.
Click to expand...
Will do. There is a 1/8" pipe thread port in the radiator that would be cool to thread a temperature gauge into, but I don't have any immediate plans to do so. Maybe if I get bored I'll do that :D

Wow, I just looked at last night's pictures on the computer for the first time. Look at the rust, ewww!! Damn salt.
 
Back from camping and I have some feedback.

First, when I was running around town to get ready to camp I noticed the radiator fans come on. It was about 80 degrees out and very sunny. I wasn't moving much so I think it got heat-soaked by the hot pavement. They didn't turn back off while I was running those errands.

Second, the drive down to the campground went very well. I tried a new route that had a lot less stop-and-starts and I enjoyed that a lot. When I was starting after each stop that I did have, I was really giving it some fuel and my temps were all very good. Of course it wasn't hot, again about 80 degrees, but it was only 82-83 I think when I took the last trip and the temps were killing me. This route still took me over a test hill that was on the previous route. This hill always bothered me with our motorhome because I couldn't maintain speed up it with the 460. When I went up it last time with the truck and trailer I was disappointed that I still couldn't maintain speed and my EGTs went up to 1250 trying to do so. This time, I maintained speed and my EGTs only went up to 1100! Overall I was having a much more pleasant experience with the truck and I was on my way to actually arriving at the campground with a smile.....until..........

I got about 5 miles from the campground and when I was taking off from a light while in a town I heard a knocking noise when I gave it a solid amount of throttle pedal. So I backed off of course but all the way to the campground I kept messing with it to try to figure out what was going on. It wasn't a constant knock like a rod, it seemed to be load dependent and the closer I got to the campground the less load it took to make the noise. Once I got to the campground I popped the hood to see what I could hear. It was just plain noisy but I couldn't find a distinct noise to lay it to. I didn't want to be a nuisance in the campground so I only started it up a couple times for a minute at the sight to figure it out. I couldn't figure anything out but I did notice some oil on the back of the oil pan.

Luckily the campground is only about 50 miles from home, so we drove the Tahoe back home unloaded and thankfully it made it in one piece. As I was driving it I tried to figure it out...the thing got louder and louder, yet I could make the sound go away completely with the right application of throttle. Most of the time it sounded like a rock-crusher, but if I pushed the throttle past the quiet zone then it would knock. People would watch my drive by because I was making such a racket.

At the campground I figured it was a rod bearing (or 8) or a broken crank, but as I drove it I started to suspect either a flexplate, torque converter or transmission issue. I haven't had a chance to diagnose it further, but I will start this weekend. I was planning on yanking the engine in a couple weeks to swap a stock cam in it, but now the engine will be coming out even sooner.

I'll try to take video of the noise and see how it translates over video.

I was actually looking forward to sitting at the campground feeling content with the Tahoe in its current state...boy did that change. Oh and then I had the joy of driving the trailer home with the F150 with the straight 6 300 in it. Between the side wind, aggressive tires, dumbass Ford twin traction beam front suspension and weak engine it was NOT a fun drive. White-knuckle most of the way, but it got us home and that's the important thing.
 
Oh and I can also report that I haven't noticed any drop in boost pressure at my current setting of 16psi now that the intercooler is installed. It may pose a little bit of a restriction once I bump the boost up, but right now it doesn't seem to be one.
 
Only major item to change is the IC. Maybe it has a leaky core check for water on the intake side of it? Maybe it dumped water in the engine?
 
Good news, it's just the flexplate!! Took the inspection cover off and you can see it's sheared all the way around the crank hub. My brother is a mechanic and he had never heard one sound this bad. Unfortunately I can't find a heavy duty flexplate for a 6.5 so hopefully just getting a new one will last me a while. I'm gonna start yanking the engine today.

I'm not sure how nasty it sounds in this video but it is AWFUL in person. This is with the inspection cover off but it's just about as bad with the cover on.


image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
I'm minutes away from checking my flexplate. I finally found the time to track down my mystery bad noise. I'm glad its your flexplate.
 
I hope you have the same luck I did. I would sure feel better if I could find a stronger aftermarket one.
 
They are usually good for a couple hundred thousand miles no problem. Just remember to use proper torque specs and procedure.
 
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