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My Trip Today

Big T

Big T

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Got back from two week road trip, 4,000+ miles fly fishing Nor al Oregon, Idaho, Montana.

Took the '99 Burb up to Big Bear Lake today to finish cleaning up a lot. After the two week sit, truck hard to start. When it finally lights, it's rough with misses, eventually clearing about 30 seconds and runs normal. No smoke. No codes. Run it, shut it down, restarts no issues. Let it sit 3 hours, start and it has some roughness. Drive to and from Big Bear uneventful.

Other issue, coolant temp indicator on dash fluctuates like a fuel gauge. I broke the old one while replacing the crank position sensor, so this is a new one. Wondering if I got a short in the wire or the plug is screwed up.

Other issue, front AC only blows when setting is on high. All other AC works on various settings.
 
Might be a resistor pack or a melted plug there on the hi only front ac.

Other than that sounds like a good outing. I haven't even tried fly fishing yet. Need to.
 
Here's a video of a start after sitting 4 days (sorry about leaving door open keeping alarm on):


Roughness at idle clears up at 39 seconds. I drove it after this video and roughness took 1/4 mile top clear in the upper rpm range. After that it runs smooth.

I'll note that the pyrometer fitting broke it's braze weld on the crossover, leaving a hole there I need to get repaired, so you might be hearing some of that (I can).

What do you guys think?
 
If it weren't for the gauges all jumping like that, I would say it is sucking air and loosing prime, then clearing up once it's running because the air intrusion is small. How the electrical system is going off like that if an air leak,idk.

When it clears up and runs right, do the gauges all continue, or are they good? Is the alt gauge jumping like that also?

And yes, -2 points for the video. 1 for door alarm and 1 for not turning the phone sideways. Haha.
 
The gauges jump with the seat belt warning light flashing. Cluster ground for that I think.
 
Will L. said:
If it weren't for the gauges all jumping like that, I would say it is sucking air and loosing prime, then clearing up once it's running because the air intrusion is small. How the electrical system is going off like that if an air leak,idk.

When it clears up and runs right, do the gauges all continue, or are they good? Is the alt gauge jumping like that also?

And yes, -2 points for the video. 1 for door alarm and 1 for not turning the phone sideways. Haha.
Click to expand...

The gauges, except for the coolant temp, don't fluctuate when the engine clears clears up. I noticed their fluctuation here also. Disappears when I connected the seat belt, which is how I drive. All grounds were put back in the same spot. Only cluster are the ones on the passenger side, front of the last intake runner. It's been sitting about 4 hours, so I'll go do another video here to check again.
 
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Please tell me you have the clear tube on the front ip return line. When it starts with the shakey misfire, watch that line for bubbles.

I am still thinking electrical honestly, but that is the only other thing I can think of besides a sticky injector or 2. Did you replace them adter the water incident?

That is something else you could do... while it is misfiring, bleed the injectors. If you find a cylinde that opening the nut has no affect, swap that injector with another and see if the dead cylinder stays the same of follows the injector.
 
Will L. said:
Please tell me you have the clear tube on the front ip return line. When it starts with the shakey misfire, watch that line for bubbles.

I am still thinking electrical honestly, but that is the only other thing I can think of besides a sticky injector or 2. Did you replace them adter the water incident?

That is something else you could do... while it is misfiring, bleed the injectors. If you find a cylinde that opening the nut has no affect, swap that injector with another and see if the dead cylinder stays the same of follows the injector.
Click to expand...

Have not replaced injector post water incident, only IP. I am still working through the issue so and this is the last of them. Been a busy summer.
 
Picked up the boat from Ventura today. 225 miles total. No problems, save for that coolant temp gauge.
 

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A+ on the video.

I wanna see a video of the clear return line on the next start up...

Didn't see to much gauge jumpy jumpy that didn't coincidence with rpm variation.
 
Will L. said:
A+ on the video.

I wanna see a video of the clear return line on the next start up...

Didn't see to much gauge jumpy jumpy that didn't coincidence with rpm variation.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I eliminated the gauge distractions so the pro team could focus here. Sooner or later I'll get what I want.:brb::smuggrin:

Do I have to install the clear hose to the hard return lines on both sides?
 
Big T said:
Yeah, I eliminated the gauge distractions so the pro team could focus here. Sooner or later I'll get what I want.:brb::smuggrin:

Do I have to install the clear hose to the hard return lines on both sides?
Click to expand...

If you look right behind the t stat crossover on your ip you'll see a 1/4" line about 3" or so long. It comes out the top of the ip and turns down to your hard line. Remove it and replace it with a clear line. That's what he wants to see. It'll let you know if you have any air in the system.
 
Jaryd said:
If you look right behind the t stat crossover on your ip you'll see a 1/4" line about 3" or so long. It comes out the top of the ip and turns down to your hard line. Remove it and replace it with a clear line. That's what he wants to see. It'll let you know if you have any air in the system.
Click to expand...

Figured. I hate that line. It's a cluster**** in there.
 
Jaryd said:
If you look right behind the t stat crossover on your ip you'll see a 1/4" line about 3" or so long. It comes out the top of the ip and turns down to your hard line. Remove it and replace it with a clear line. That's what he wants to see. It'll let you know if you have any air in the system.
Click to expand...

Thank You for that bit of info. i know what I will be doing tomorrow.

Big T said:
Figured. I hate that line. It's a cluster**** in there.
Click to expand...

I think it could be cut, a splice coupler added and then the clear line run to the top of the pump. that might save some grief of having to get down there in the midst of the cluster.
 
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