My Trip Today

[ak diesel driver]

its really not that bad

 

[Will L.]

The fuel return line (hose) you replace with clear tubing is out the front top of the IP is a 1/4" diameter rubber hose 3"-4" long. Circled in red pic#1.

This is the fitting on the IP it attaches to labeled here as "Fuel Return inlet" (I believe it should be labeled as outlet, not inlet as the fuel is leaving the pump).



Here is a pic with the IP gone, you are replacing the "Fuel Return Line" with red arrow point at it. It attaches to the metal line that goes from driver side injectors and passanger side injectors that is underlined in blue.



This is also an important line to know and be able to reach in case of failed fuel solenoid . You can make the "loop" larger if needed. If your key will not shut off the engine, this is the line you pinch shut with pliers (or if tubing is soft enough for fingers then great!)

WARNING do not do this for emergency shut off if engine is in runaway - over 4,000 rpm and MASSIVE smoke pouring out exhaust covering the whole road... DO NOT GET NEAR THE ENGINE. GET 100' away at least. It is no longer running on diesel fuel, it is running on engine oil and nothing other than blocking air flow you will not get it to stop, and it WILL become a huge granade. Injury and death can seriously happen. If you don't understand a runaway, lmk and I will post links to videos that show it well. I just dont want to sidetrack thread.

 

[MrMarty51]

Well, that should be easy enough. Thank You Will.

 

[Big T]

The male end of the plug to the coolant sender is missing the rubber grommet, so it rocks freely in the female end on the sender. Where can I get those grommets or seals?

 

[Big T]

I found a grommet on the ABS harness I had pulled off the wrecked '95. So check that flickering gauge off the list. Just need to do the clear tubing test, etc.

 

[Will L.]

Good thing about that clear tubing is they sell it 1 foot at a time, so when you cut it in half for this rig, you'll have the other half for the other 6.5...

Unrelated problems almost always throw me for a loop. I always jump to the "connected possibility".
It is a bad thing. Notice AK driver didn't get fooled by this and stuck to the normal diagnostic process. Copy him on that tecnique.
I am so used to having the trucks set up like I want them (clear tube always installed) that in real life I would just look at the tube for 5 seconds while le thinking what other options. Trying to jump to next possibilities before knowing the important step one: is there air in the fuel.

 

[Big T]

I got the clear tubing at Home Depot, so it only came in 10' lengths.

The truck fired up right away after installing the hose with only one slight hiccup in the engine. Took a bit for the fuel to clear the air in the clear hose. Shut it down and did several restarts throughout the day. Engine lit immediately with no hiccups and never any bubbles in the clear hose.

So I'm moving onto getting the pyrometer fitting welded back onto the crossover pipe. Also working on my son's '94.

Finally, the boat that's being repowered is back in my yard with a new cleaned up transom. The port side fuel tank was already drained, as that was my source of water in fuel which lead me down this chain of events. I drained the starboard side through the funnel filter and got ZERO water for 35 gallons. Just my luck that I first drew fuel out of the tank that was contaminated with water.

 

[MrMarty51]

I like that boat, nice deep V on the hull too.

 

[Big T]

I like that boat, nice deep V on the hull too.

It's a Conch 27. Pretty famous build and very popular in the Florida Keys. 22 degree deadrise. Still being built to order by R & R Boatworks in Stuart FL. They start at $150K with single outboard power. So you can understand why it's worth repowering, ironically from single Volvo Diesel I/O to twin Yamaha F200 outboards.

 

[MrMarty51]

Last time I was in Alaska, I seen the boat of My dreams, a landing craft river boat. 350 horse diesel with coolant recurculation system so it has a heater and sleeps four. It is a tunnel jet. I did not think that the price was so bad at $80,000.00, I just could never afford it. If I was living there and hauling on the rivers for a living, it`d definetely be worth it then.
The sign even has the name of the builder. LOL

 

[WarWagon]

View attachment 50783

And leaving the worm clamp on the return line while changing the IP is how I dropped it into the cylinder intake port.

 

[Big T]

And leaving the worm clamp on the return line while changing the IP is how I dropped it into the cylinder intake port.

The OEM hose has those squeeze clamps. I put worm clamps on. Other than the initial air gap from the tube change, no air in the system.

Engine now starts quick and other than one initial hiccup, ran fine. Several restarts through the day and no issues.

I tore into and dropped the crossover pipe as the pyrometer fitting had broken its brazing. The exhaust donut on the driver's side was shot. All that was left was a steel wool mesh and that only went 3/4 of the way around the joint. Explains why I was not getting full boost. We cut and welded a galv steel 1/4" coupler to the crossover and then screwed a new brass fitting into that.

While I was in there, pulled the oil filter adapter to replace the o-rings. They were stiff, even brittle, with at least one breaking as I used a pick to remove it. The $2 oil filter adapter o-ring kit from Rockauto only had the smaller o-rings. The larger ones in the kit would not fit. Tried an o-ring from an oil filter, but it was just over sized.

And the big find, the ground from the frame to the manifold bolt was not attached. That ground has cooked insulation and will be replaced. The braided ground strap from the frame to the firewall was worn through about 1/2 way, so that will get replaced. This could have been the source of hiccups on starts.

 

[WarWagon]

That would explain the gauges jumping... Yeah all bets are off with goofy grounds. The ECM being grounded to the engine doesn't help in all cases. I run a new second ground strap to the frame and body from the engine on all my rides. Just the cheap auto parts store cables do the job.

 

[Big T]

Alright, I reinstalled everything today and the truck starts and runs great. Following is the list of items addressed:

1. New seals on oil filter adapter (Thanks Leroy Diesel).
2. New exhaust donuts and pyrometer fitting on crossover pipe.
3. New ground strap to firewall and ground to intake bolt.

Engine compartment a lot quieter now. Boost is fully back. Temp gauge no longer going haywire. Engine no longer has hiccups on starts. I think I'm back.

 

[Big T]

Side benefit from all the corrections: far less smoke. The underboost was causing much more smoke. Nice to have the full acceleration back. It just loafed it while towing the boat, barely getting over 185 on the coolant temp a couple times.

 

[MrMarty51]

Side benefit from all the corrections: far less smoke. The underboost was causing much more smoke. Nice to have the full acceleration back. It just loafed it while towing the boat, barely getting over 185 on the coolant temp a couple times.

I guess I had better be for checking grounding straps too. I know the two on the right side of the intake are clean and tight, I have not checked the engine to frame and firewall though.
Coming back home from Denver, running over 75 but less than 80, boost would go to about 4 pounds, EGTs up to 1,100 and was pouring out quite a bit of black smoke. Temp gauge was just below 200 degrees.
I am also getting about 11 to the gallon of fuel at those speeds, attributing it to too much wasted fuel going out as black smoke.
On the way over to Denver, had a cross wind. I could see the black smoke crossing over the pickup box.
I dont think that is good.
After I got out of Denver, I cut speed back to a little over 65, engine temps came down to about 185, boost would run up to about 3 psi and eGTs would not go over 900, not so much black smoke but still just a little.
probably not enough boost at higher speeds huh.

 

[Big T]

I guess I had better be for checking grounding straps too. I know the two on the right side of the intake are clean and tight, I have not checked the engine to frame and firewall though.
Coming back home from Denver, running over 75 but less than 80, boost would go to about 4 pounds, EGTs up to 1,100 and was pouring out quite a bit of black smoke. Temp gauge was just below 200 degrees.
I am also getting about 11 to the gallon of fuel at those speeds, attributing it to too much wasted fuel going out as black smoke.
On the way over to Denver, had a cross wind. I could see the black smoke crossing over the pickup box.
I dont think that is good.
After I got out of Denver, I cut speed back to a little over 65, engine temps came down to about 185, boost would run up to about 3 psi and eGTs would not go over 900, not so much black smoke but still just a little.
probably not enough boost at higher speeds huh.

I attribute the lower boost and smoke to the exhaust leaks on the drivers side of the crossover pipe. All that was left of the donut gasket there was steel wool mesh and the pyrometer fitting had blown out it's braze weld.

 

[MrMarty51]

I attribute the lower boost and smoke to the exhaust leaks on the drivers side of the crossover pipe. All that was left of the donut gasket there was steel wool mesh and the pyrometer fitting had blown out it's braze weld.

OH Yeah. That blown out gasket would cause that.
On mine, I was thinking that maybe the grounding of the engine to body and frame may be causing some goofy signals to the PCM and causing it to not give enough boost. Smoke from mine is all out the tail pipe.
I bet driving Your truck with repaired exhaust leaks is a pretty nice experience now.

 

[Big T]

OH Yeah. That blown out gasket would cause that.
On mine, I was thinking that maybe the grounding of the engine to body and frame may be causing some goofy signals to the PCM and causing it to not give enough boost. Smoke from mine is all out the tail pipe.
I bet driving Your truck with repaired exhaust leaks is a pretty nice experience now.

It is a much better experience, both in terms of power and sound. Before I was getting a ticking type sound coming out the pyrometer hole. I thought it was a valve, but definitely not.

 

[MrMarty51]

Exhaust leaks can take on the sounds of many different things, other than what they are. LOL
The turbo and exhaust manifold flanges on Mine were leaking, plained them back to flat. I could not hear the leak but a friend riding with Me could. LOL