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My Plow Truck

The pumps are easy to find it the electric control for the plow that is hard to find. Northern sells hyd pumps with clutch. And then there is the price.
 
The link is just for mounting brackets.

Are you looking for elec/hyd spool valves?

None of it is cheap.
 
Oh I was looking until I found the set up I have now. No way I could have even touched them for what I paid for the complete plow
 
So I dropped the starter today, I don't know what the diff is but it was way harder than on my 96 DD. Anyway I dropped it cause when I left it parked out side at 5* above the starter wouldn't do anything. Finally got it to start with enough jumpers on it. Had to keep cycling the key switch and it finally took off. So I'm assuming it has a weak selenoid. So I called Napa and they told me a new selenoid was $289 and I could buy a new starter for $350. So I called one of the other parts stores and they said no one stocks them because they are too expensive. They would have to order it in and it would be $415. I can't believe a $35 part could cost so much. So my dad used to rebuild alt and starters so he said he would call the outfit he used to deal with tomorrow and see how much from them. I can buy them on ebay for $32 but they are probably chinese garbage. If anyone know of a good source for good quality selenoids let me know.
 
Did you try rotating the battery terminal post 180* on the sol. That will give you new a contact surface.
 
No I didn't the selenoid is a sealed unit. Can the stud just be turned? Been too long since I've had a selenoid apart the older ones you could disassemble and clean up or rotate parts.
 
Well now, I don't know, I'm familiar with the old ones that could be taken apart. Those had terminals that could be rotated. I've never seen a sealed one.
 
It does have bolts that hold the bakalite end piece on but when I took them out it acted like something was soldered together. I could wiggle it but not move it out.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Tell me about it
Click to expand...

Had a quick look on roack auto's site.

Sure enough, cheapest price is 158 bucks for a wells unit.

Sheesh.......that's unreal.

If it's built like hte picture on the rock auto site:

getimage.jpg


It looks like the end is staked in place and that's why it won't pull out...
 
Undo the nuts on all the terminals, they should allow the end cap to come off. IIRC the small ign. terminal will be attached by a wire.
 
great white said:
Had a quick look on roack auto's site.

Sure enough, cheapest price is 158 bucks for a wells unit.

Sheesh.......that's unreal.

If it's built like hte picture on the rock auto site:

getimage.jpg


It looks like the end is staked in place and that's why it won't pull out...
Click to expand...

It looks like the one in the pic but the shiny silver part that goes over the batt terminal is solder as well as the wire from the ign switch.
 
The end with the terminals and the two bolts. On older solenoids it was easy to take apart. I just did one one a dodge sol.

When you go for it just drill out the stakes to free it. Looks like they don't want anything serviceable anymore.
 
Does it work fine if you just jumper a wire to the S terminal, the Start terminal? If you had to play with ignition a lot to get it to do anything I would first suspect the ignition switch is not sending 12V to the S terminal of the solenoid when you turn the ignition to the Start/Crank position. You can test the igntion switch still by putting a meter on the wire to the solenoid and seeing if you get battery voltage when you turn the key.
 
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