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My new truck

Interesting, Might want to build a "sleeve" to space the gauge out some? I don't know of anything more compact.
 
Can't tell for certain from the picture, but the gauge ports have an inner chamfer that's designed to compress a single cone ferrule with a (direct fit) cap like you're making.
 
In person, does it look like it's shaped that way to accept/mate & compress a ferrule?

At least brass is soft & easier to work with.
 
Here's as good a pic as I can get. Second one has the ferrule sitting in the hole
 

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I bet that will seal just fine with the cap you're making. If you decide the ferrule should be further into the taper, I wonder if one of the common step drills might provide the taper you want but a little deeper?

I use step drills more & more in fabrication because they leave such nice deburred holes.
 
I bet that will seal just fine with the cap you're making. If you decide the ferrule should be further into the taper, I wonder if one of the common step drills might provide the taper you want but a little deeper?

I use step drills more & more in fabrication because they leave such nice deburred holes.
Was thinking more like this in the correct size. http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/drill-bits/hss-countersinks

metal-countersinks-1732.jpg
 
AK, in your post 88 you are questioning the angle adapters for the gauges that go into the overhead console. Several years ago I added an overhead console to my pickup so I could add gauges up there. I used the same angle adapters, for the same reason as your question, and they worked very well to angle the face directly towards the driver.

Now, on to the pillar gauge mount. I also used a pillar gauge mount and had problems with the way the gauges faced. The face of the gauge angles upwards too much to suit me. Not as easy to read the gauge as the ones in the overhead console. I'd be interested in hearing how they fit for you.

Also, when I installed the pillar mount, I used epoxy glue to mount the pillar pod to the stock pillar cover, instead of the supplied screws. I also, prior to the gluing, removed portions of the stock cover that were behind the gauge. This allowed me more room for the wires, fittings, and tubes.

Don
 
Alright guys I need some ideas here. So I got my bottoming tap and I can thread it all the way to the bottom of the cap by hand but the cap still won't thread on far enough. Evidently the tap is smaller than 1/8" pipe. But when I hold it up to the threaded tube on the gauge it looks smaller than the tube as well. What thread is that any way. Maybe I should get a 3/8-27 die and run it over the tube, not sure if there's room to do that tho.
 
Can you glue a washer in the bottom of the cap as a spacer so it is not so deep. Or make one as a bushing/spacer.
 
1/8 tubing with a compression ferrule to fit it (similar to an OP gauge) and the proper nut would be a 3/8-27 straight thread (like a lamp fitting). I probably have a couple in a drawer full of tube fittings if you just can't find anything. Check around online first starting with the gauge manufacturer.
 
So I finally got my tap. PO put it in the wrong box. Looks like I can make it work I did use my countersink and bevel the hole better too.
 

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