My New (To me) Hummer take out, courtesy of Ted's Trucks 'n Stuff.

[vegtech]

[QUOTE

With the ARP studs, you would probably be fine with leaving the HG standard thickness, even up to 20+ PSI.[/QUOTE]

See i have read so much conflicting poet on here and the other place about boost, gaskets and compresion. some say its fine others say they they have popped the HG with ARPs and 17psi. I figuer that the thicker HG will not drop it much but it will help.

 

[chevyCowboy]

iv got the thicker Hg and Arp's and iv been running 15+ since i got the motor running

 

[OrionThade]

And I ran 15 PSI with my GM 4 turbo and TTY bolts with now problems. I think you'll have better success with new head gaskets than you will with a HG that is 10+ years old and how ever many thousands of miles. I think the key is really taking care of your engine ... which today we do a lot better than we would have back in the day.

 

[buddy]

Rest assured that lower CR will be easier on the engine, higher will be harder on the engine, and too low is not good for you :rof:

IMHO, adding the +.01" gasket is a good choice, if you want to make power reliably for several years. You'll only be going down to 20:1 CR. I personally would not take it all the way to 18:1 in a truck. I have posted a spreadsheet before that shows you the effects on cylinder pressure and temperatures from modifying boost, CR and IAT.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Nice powerplant.....Good luck!

 

[vegtech]

so i got my Ted"s motor today and started another thread cause ITS THAT BAD! check it out. PICS too. SO SAD

 

[WarWagon]

I wouldn't go with the electric fans. I'll bet those fans flow 3000 CFM each. Maybe 3500. The 21" fan with HD clutch will flow 10K or more. I thought of that and even bought two 3600 CFM electric fans, but decided not to. They simply won't be able to keep up with the cooling requirements. If you search this place and the other place you'll see several posts regarding this and the problems the installers had.

HX35 would probably be fine. I'm planning to do an HE VGT on mine. I'm hoping to do this by the end of the year.

With the ARP studs, you would probably be fine with leaving the HG standard thickness, even up to 20+ PSI.

Electric fans are a bad idea. You put the truck to work on a warm to hot day and you will find out why.

I put in a 10,000 CFM fan from a trailblazer, 21". It did not do the job because it did not have enough pitch on the blades. I measured the 10,000 CFM on the Trailblazer SS, hood closed etc. The 20" 9 wing steel or the 21" Duramax fan puts out way more CFM than any electric fan. Only time I have had to turn off the AC pulling a hill was with a fan not up to par.

This body style is also airflow challenged so electric fans make that problem worse.

 

[OrionThade]

OK. So I pulled the right side head tonight to have a gander. I don't have pics. It's not a clean as I was hoping. Then again, I was hoping that it had never been run before.

I'll take some pics. Long of the short, it's got square precups and none-ceramic pistons. The plan right now is to first measure EVERYTHING. I want to know exactly where this engine is on tolerances. Then, I'm going to remove my new pistons from my 599 block and place them in this motor, as well as my diamond cups.

Pics to follow on Sunday.

 

[buddy]

So I wonder why they stopped with the annodized surface on the pistons? Maybe Mahle told them it wasnt necessary, but seems strange.

 

[DieselSlug]

I got a set of pistons once that werent coated from burning oil... I wonder if they were out of a newer engine? Mine were all coated, so i wanted to stick with coated.

 

[OrionThade]

I got a set of pistons once that werent coated from burning oil... I wonder if they were out of a newer engine? Mine were all coated, so i wanted to stick with coated.

I'm kind of feeling this, too.

These pistons will work just fine. I'm not worried about running it as it is, at all. But by the same token, I have a brand new set of Mahle ceramic coated pistons that have about 2 hours of runtime on them. I'd rather have the pistons in this engine than save them for a 599 build that might not even happen. Actually, at the price that I can get a long block from Ted, it doesn't make economical sense to rebuild a 599, which is the whole reason I got the optimizer in the first place. Besides, maybe by the time I'm ready for another block, they'll have P400's for the same price.


The plan for the next couple of weeks is as follows:

- Pull the 599 from my truck
- Remove the ARP studs, pistons and diamond cups
- Place them in the 506 block
- Take a sh*tload of pics. When I got it, I swore that my D90 wouldn't see the inside of my shop area. I feel that this is an exception that should be made.

To the folks at Ted's Trucks 'N Stuff: While I was secretly hoping that this engine had sat for 6 years with less than 2 hours of run time on it, I'm still very pleased with this engine. It's exactly what you described.

 

[DieselSlug]

The block i got from some joe on craigslist turned out to have a few more problems than i bargained for, but he said it had 90ish K on the odometer, when i saw the innerds it had to be true. I got lucky... Take tons of pics, you wont regret it. My rebuild thread has about 1000 pictures i took and posted on it lol.

 

[vegtech]

So I wonder why they stopped with the annodized surface on the pistons? Maybe Mahle told them it wasnt necessary, but seems strange.

These are N/A motors. Dont only the turbo's come with annodized pistons?

 

[OrionThade]

Wow. I didn't realize that this thread had fallen so far behind. Sorry. I haven't spent the time on that I've wanted to on this project. I blame the weather, since I'm at a standstill until I get my 599 engine out of my truck.

In the mean time, here are some pics of everything.

A couple of things to note. The precups are square. I'll be installing diamonds. The cross hatchings look good in all cylinders, but you might not be able to see them that well in these pics.

There are also no cracks between valves, not that I'd expect that at all on this engine.

There are only a couple of things that I've found of concern so far with this engine. Some of these won't be evident in the pictures I have. I'll take some better pics when I can.

#1 - On piston #6 there appears to have been and instance where both valves have come contact with the piston. There's a clear stamp of both valves on the top.

#2 - In cylinders 2 and 4, there appears to be something embedded in piston. It almost looks like the tip of a glow plug. I took a pick to try and remove it, but I wasn't able. I'll do this when I get the pistons out.

Weather permitting, I'll get the 599 out of my truck this week. I'm going to see if I can pull it as quick as I can. I'm shooting for a 2 hour pull time. This is for no other reason than to say I pulled a 6.5 in 2 hours.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I talked to an ex military mech and he told me that if the glows didn't come right out they just broke em off.

 

[OrionThade]

I talked to an ex military mech and he told me that if the glows didn't come right out they just broke em off.

That's good to know. My rig currently has all duraterms. All the more reason to install my new pistons.

 

[davo727]

did you look at the main webs yet?

 

[OrionThade]

did you look at the main webs yet?

Not yet. I still have the oil pan on it because I need to take it off my stand and put my 599 engine on it until I get my pistons out of it. Hopefully I'll have that done in the next few days.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

I talked to an ex military mech and he told me that if the glows didn't come right out they just broke em off.

And how did he extract the broken tip........Remove the Injector?

 

[ak diesel driver]

said it just blew out the exhaust. must be some other foreign object in Orion's piston lol