dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
That color of parts reminds me of the army green as if these are military grade components
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My 2005 Yukon XL
- Thread starter DieselSlug
- Start date
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
It's together. Got a hodge-podge of parts. I can't find my dial indicator to save my life. We ended up using the donor case, gears, and bearings. Everything was disassembled and throughly cleaned. I pressed out my bushings that were in very good condition to the donor housing. Those bushings were wasted.
We used my internal 4wd engagement bits as the donors were very stripped. Also used my passenger axle tube as the donor was severely disintegrating. Did a thin coat of grease on all bearings to help until gear oil gets spread around.
I feel confident in it, but wish we had more time to do a bearing job and gear compound to check mesh. I couldn't fins issue with any bearings internally on the donor unit. Waiting for the anerobic to cure 24 hours, then will fill with synthetic gear oil.
We used my internal 4wd engagement bits as the donors were very stripped. Also used my passenger axle tube as the donor was severely disintegrating. Did a thin coat of grease on all bearings to help until gear oil gets spread around.
I feel confident in it, but wish we had more time to do a bearing job and gear compound to check mesh. I couldn't fins issue with any bearings internally on the donor unit. Waiting for the anerobic to cure 24 hours, then will fill with synthetic gear oil.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
The mutt is in, what a cumbersome piece to install. Test drove went well, all i could hear was rhe annoying power steering pump. I really want to replace it, so annoying being the 2nd pump ive put in. Time to get some miles on, oil change, rear diff fluid swap and t-case fluid check. Fingers crossed its ready to go.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
the 3/4 ton are harder to put in
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Does that donor have a PS pump you can swap in? just install an inline filter with magnet to save on your steering box and booster, give it a shot. 90%of the time the factory GM pumps that have never been messed with are fairly resilient for many miles!
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I think i will be swapping a PS pump, for the 3rd damn time. It's getting noiser, and for a while now low on effort while idle. Fluid is at full and clean.
The first pump was leaking badly, replaced with a Cardone reman, that reman was utter garbage and replaced with a Napa refurb, which i later found out was also a Cardone.
I really don't want to spend $350-450 on a new pump, any other options with success? For some reason the pump my Yukon requires is a bit odd. Non-Y91, and non-BPH RPO codes, which is more than the opposite RPO coded units. I am hydroboost, which may be it but i thought all 04 and newer vehicles automatically had hydroboost on the half tons.
The first pump was leaking badly, replaced with a Cardone reman, that reman was utter garbage and replaced with a Napa refurb, which i later found out was also a Cardone.
I really don't want to spend $350-450 on a new pump, any other options with success? For some reason the pump my Yukon requires is a bit odd. Non-Y91, and non-BPH RPO codes, which is more than the opposite RPO coded units. I am hydroboost, which may be it but i thought all 04 and newer vehicles automatically had hydroboost on the half tons.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I will have to look. The truck is severely rotted, was worried it's condition but agree with you.
I need to go back and drop off cash for the diff anyway
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Just to settle my OCD, we checked the rear out. No issues there. This fluid was changed about 3 to 4-years ago when I got it. The rear cover was leaking so I had a shop replace it.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Asked my buddy if he is willing to sell the PS pump on the crusty plow truck. No response yet, but he is on vacation. So I don't blame him.
I stopped by his place and dropped off the cash for the diff, took a look at the PS pump and it's crusty as hell. Might be salvageable, but I am not sure if it's the right one as I couldn't see of the truck had hydroboost. I'm coming to find out not many 1500 trucks had hydroboost if any (I havent found one yet to be honest, but Rock Auto does list hydroboost for an 05 Silverado 1500), mostly 04-06 Yukons, Suburban, and avalanches. Wondering if I should try for a non-reman, aftermarket unit. I am definitely not buying anymore Cardone ever.
Also side note, the old assumed stuck thermostat was placed in water on the stove. It started to open around 189 degrees, fully open by 195. This stats rubber was failing and you could see daylight through it.
The new assumed Delco unit (thay I took out and replaced again because it was running 211 degrees) was also tested. I could see opening about 193 and it seemed to fully open about 200 degrees.
Not all stats are equal.... the new Delco unit i purchased runs about 198 to 202 degrees in the Yukon.
I stopped by his place and dropped off the cash for the diff, took a look at the PS pump and it's crusty as hell. Might be salvageable, but I am not sure if it's the right one as I couldn't see of the truck had hydroboost. I'm coming to find out not many 1500 trucks had hydroboost if any (I havent found one yet to be honest, but Rock Auto does list hydroboost for an 05 Silverado 1500), mostly 04-06 Yukons, Suburban, and avalanches. Wondering if I should try for a non-reman, aftermarket unit. I am definitely not buying anymore Cardone ever.
Also side note, the old assumed stuck thermostat was placed in water on the stove. It started to open around 189 degrees, fully open by 195. This stats rubber was failing and you could see daylight through it.
The new assumed Delco unit (thay I took out and replaced again because it was running 211 degrees) was also tested. I could see opening about 193 and it seemed to fully open about 200 degrees.
Not all stats are equal.... the new Delco unit i purchased runs about 198 to 202 degrees in the Yukon.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
the pumps are mostly the same other than the orifice and pressure valve that lives where the pressure line connects to the pump. you can use a drill bit to check the size of the orifice in the center of the fitting and compare to yours. I would first try it as it is then if it's not to your liking, swap out the orifice and valve + spring and see what it does. iirc it's just three bolts that hold the pump on the engine that are in front behind the pulley.
should be a quick and easy swap so long as you don't need to change pulleys
if the res has an extra return barb, iirc there are metal clips that hold the plastic res to the pump. should be an easy but oily swap too
should be a quick and easy swap so long as you don't need to change pulleys
if the res has an extra return barb, iirc there are metal clips that hold the plastic res to the pump. should be an easy but oily swap too