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Moving a shop/garage to my house

chevyCowboy

chevyCowboy

I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
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Location
Springfield Nebraska
A little over a week ago a buddy told me about a garage in town that was possibly free for the taking, I said that would be sweet try and find out more, that was on monday. Tuesday he saw the guy again and he said if you want it take it but I want it gone yesterday, he had plans to get his hoe there the coming weekend to push it In a pile.
Wednesday I made some calls to some buddies and started rounding up needed supplies and people to help.

The building was 24 by 38 according to city code the biggest I could do on a slab is 24 by 30 which is about all the bigger I can fit on my lot. so I had to cut 8ft off the front which was fine since I wanted to do one 18ft door instead of the 2 9ft ones that where there. Also the inside was set up with a wall down the middle and a bathroom and office on one side so that all had to be removed to get trailer in, by 10pm it was all out and cleaned up.

Friday I had to go on a little road trip to get the 20k 29ft trailer that we where going to use, also had to get plans submitted.

Got the 8ft cut off and the front reframed and the lifting beams in and walls braced by 11

We had to help one of the guys pour some concrete sat morning but where ready to start lifting by 1. Everything went smooth and had it on the trailer and moved off the slab by 430.

Just waiting on my building permit to come back before I remove my old mini shop and start to prep for the pad

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Well so far I'm Into it for 250 and that includes fuel to go get trailer and beer and food for the workers, my only expenses will be concrete 19yrds, I'll pour my self and I'm going to put 3 courses of block to make 10 ft walls allowing me to have a 9ft door which will be a big expense, I'm hoping to keep the cost to around 3000 but we will see
 
Looks good to me. I almost partnered into a house moving business here. We moved a couple buildings and a I thought - not bad. And I learned about all the permitting needed in this wonderful Desert State. Passed on that business due to the government's requirements of dealing with them all the time .
 
So I am going to be putting my wood burner back into this garage but I can decide where the best place to put it would be, I know I'm a long ways off from this yet but trying to get the layout right from the start. The options are the back corners or in the middle, what's every ones thoughts. I have a magic heat on it so it helps with circulation of heat
 
I was orginally going to do a slab for this with a thickened edge but have been giving thought to doing footings. a poured footing 12"x48" is going to be 14yrds of concrete at about $1200, plus the 3 courses of block on top of that bringing me to around $1500.

Or I could do a 12"x12" footing below frost line and build all the way up to my 2' above grade with block, which is like 612 blocks at around $650

With both of these options I still would have to pour floor wich is another $1200

What are some of your thoughts? I feel like footing would be best for strength, but in the interest of time, winter is coming, and budget a slab would be better
 
I've been around residential construction for over 35 years, but I'm not familiar with construction in an area that gets as cold as your area. So, take my suggestion with a grain of salt as it may not be any good for your area. But, around here (rarely gets down to single digit temps) it is real common to see garage footings and stem walls completed and then the garage built before a floor is even poured.

My suggestion would be to do the footing and stem wall so you can get the garage placed and closed in before cold weather hits. Then pour the floor when you can somewhat control the temps inside while the concrete is curing. This would allow you to spread out the expenses.

Don
 
x2, my shop had the footings poured with 2 rows of the styrofoam blocks on top. The slap was poured the next year.
 
I think pour the footing with plenty of Styrofoam to the frost line. Then do your knee walls, set the building down and then, like Don says, float the slab
 
chevyCowboy said:
I was orginally going to do a slab for this with a thickened edge but have been giving thought to doing footings. a poured footing 12"x48" is going to be 14yrds of concrete at about $1200, plus the 3 courses of block on top of that bringing me to around $1500.

Or I could do a 12"x12" footing below frost line and build all the way up to my 2' above grade with block, which is like 612 blocks at around $650

With both of these options I still would have to pour floor wich is another $1200

What are some of your thoughts? I feel like footing would be best for strength, but in the interest of time, winter is coming, and budget a slab would be better
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Your first description is known as a bullet, around here, and I'd not have a floor like that if it was free.

Pour footers and walls, or pour footers and then lay up block for your walls is my $.02. Our frost line here is 36" and I'd not put a building up that had 1" less than that. I'm not sure what your frost line is in Nebraska. Some guys, around here, have backed off to 30", but I'd still stay with 36" if I was building something today.

Since you're doing the pour yourself, have you considered radiant heat in the floor? No better heat and supremely efficient (although it's going to be worthless if it's a bullet design, since you'll lose your heat to the ground and air outside the building). It's not difficult to run the tubes - I've done it in a couple buildings, myself, for guys in the area. Four zones in total in dad's shop. The heated part is 40'x60' and we ran the extra two zones in another 30'x60' area. We got all that done in two days time and already had the rebar and insulation down.

Then you can still use your wood burner for your primary source of heat, but once the floor is in, there's no way to do radiant. A little extra cost up front, but I don't believe you'll be sorry you did it.
 
Well I got my building permits and have decided to go with footings for a couple reasons, much better structurally, better to heat, and lastly im afraid that if I poured a slab the weight of trailer and building would crack the concrete since it will stl be rather green.

Our frost code is 42" so im going to pour 12" footing to grade and then block up from there. lucky for me I have a buddy that's a block layer and he said he will help me lay the block if I put a clutch and ring gear in his 79 ford high boy, I love a good labor swap
 
chevyCowboy said:
I

The guy who bought the ground thought I was bat shit crazy when I told him it would be moved by end of weekend, I definitely wouldn't have been able to get it done with out some really good friends and my dad who busted there asses
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Did he think that like it was a bad thing? :woot:
 
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