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motors motors motors

Yep that was the problem I ran into with the oil pan clearance.

Well bottom end of the motor is now assembled, hopefully it wont have to be touched for a very, very long time.
P4140131.jpg




With that stage complete Its time to move onto the cam!
Since the pushrods and the timing chain have already been removed for awhile there isn't much left to remove to get the stock cam out.
P4140132.jpg


Unbolt these plates that hold the lifter assemblies in (4)
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Then reach in and lift off the rest of the retaining plates
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Which leaves you with the lifters (16)
P4140135.jpg


Some of the lifters were coming out by hand, others needed a little bit better grip (still oil coated)
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With the lifters taken care of went to the back of the intake valley and removed you
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Then went to the front and removed the retaining plate (2 bolts)
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Need to get myself some assembly lube then the new cam will go in. Then to decide on closing up the front or the top of the motor next.
 
Just wanna touch on a few things. Turbonator....the pick-up used with my Hummer pan was different than my other motors! It had a clamp as well which I liked because I recently lost a 6.2 to a broken pick up. I just figured it was different for the pan but I really don't know much about the pans.

On the gear drive subject...I build gas race motors. Most of us circle track guy wont touch a gear drive! Not because of harmonics but because of the fact that they hardly ever degree out right! They just wasn't worth the trouble.

And as far as degree-ing the cam...there are many variables that will change the final position of the cam vs TDC. Core shift, timing chain or gear tightness are a couple. Not a big deal in our motors but in an 850 hp Alky motor its very important.

Roller rockers....15 hp would be very hard to believe in this setup. I have 2 personal motors I run in two very different race cars. One is a UMP modified with open motor rules. Friday night this motor was screaming at 8500 rpm. Saturday and sunday the other was running at 6500 rpms. The mod motor has a very large roller cam and high spring pressures. I have switched to a full roller shaft mount rocker setup mainly for the stability. But with the stuff that motor goes through it needs them!!! Now the other is limited by cam size, flat tappet cam, a 2 barrel carb, and more restrictions. Our new rules say to run roller rocker we must add 50# of weight. No where near worth it! I have rockers that will handle the load and the gain is only 6 hp on the dyno! Thats on a 575 hp race engine.

Sounds like you got a great project going Red. Can't wait to see how it turns out! Keep the pics coming.
 
countryboy69 said:
Roller rockers....15 hp would be very hard to believe in this setup. The mod motor has a very large roller cam and high spring pressures. I have switched to a full roller shaft mount rocker setup mainly for the stability. the gain is only 6 hp on the dyno! Thats on a 575 hp race engine.
Click to expand...

Sounds like fun :) What are the spring pressures, rocker ratio and valve lift on that engine? Did it dyno consistent enough to detect a 1% change?
 
It dyno-ed very consistent. An advantage to a 2bbl engine. I am running a split set of 1.5/1/6. It help flatten the torque curve and put my cam selection right at my .550 max lift rule.

I do have an option of losing another 50 pounds by running a .450 lift cam.......Not worth that loss!!!
 
I am very interested in more info on Heath's cams! I have a comp dyno program that is very consistent with live dyno time. Me and my computer geek buddy has been running numerous chain calcs with different turbos and more on the 6.x and the old IDI 7.3s.
 
This summer/fall I'll be able to get a few dyno runs with my motor, all with the new towing cam from Heath. One run with the gm-4 (will need to make or pick up a turbomaster), another run with the ATT. Injectors will most likely be stock nozzles with 2400psi pop pressure, need to call the injector shop to get that arranged (shipped them). Also need to call the machine shop about the pre-cups, going a little bit larger than diamonds. My elevation is about 2700ft

Last week my cam assembly lube and fluid damper arrived so I plan to get the front end of the motor buttoned up this weekend if I have the time, need to order the water pump.
 
Towing cam is in, nice and smooth install. Got a question on timing chains, which brand is best to go with?
 
For the hot rod motors I always bought double roller sets from Summit except the couple times when I put in gear drives.
 
ordered a cloyes double roller from summit and got it installed today along with the front cover, fluid damper, and the lifters for the cam. Next is the water pump and the pre-cups
 
Sorry currently at a standstill with the motor. Have run into some issues with the pre-cups taking longer than expected, can't progress until they arrive. Will start pulling the front clip and drivetrain out of the truck this evening though
 
Man thats a steep cost, and here I've been trying to keep a low profile with all the work on the truck :D











I'll start another thread for the details on the truck but heres how its sitting as of this morning.

P7110104.jpg


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even with the 31" rollers aired down I barely clear the door
P7110107.jpg
 
which motor for the pics? :D

P7120113.jpg






possibility for a center mount turbo, but not at this time. first need to get everything back together and get 2 dyno runs. one with the gm4 then another with the ATT.
 
the more I read about the center mount turbo setup the more I'm interested in it, and the fact that if I try it now it will save me money in the long run.

For the next 3 weeks though I'm outta town so can't touch anything till I get back.
 
Alright back in town and made some progress on the motor. Will get some pics up later but the cylinder heads are installed with the ARP head studs. need to complete torquing them down
 
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