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More winter projects...

Nope, that is definitely NOT from a gmt400.

Come to think of it...all the fog switches I have seen looked like the one you have...so i wonder what the hell this switch is from? Oh well...the colors and face plate textures match perfectly, so the only ones who are going to notice its not original are us
 
I know alot of people hate the look of lights below the bumper, but I was very happy with how I had these lights on my 95. When they are on with the headlights it looks like a newer style chevy with the fogs directly below the headlights. Now that the 95 is becoming the "un-official" parts truck, i guess I dont even need to buy another set.

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This is the info I have from LMC (2008 Spring edition) on the fog lights switches.
 

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I know alot of people hate the look of lights below the bumper, but I was very happy with how I had these lights on my 95. When they are on with the headlights it looks like a newer style chevy with the fogs directly below the headlights. Now that the 95 is becoming the "un-official" parts truck, i guess I dont even need to buy another set.

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That looks really sharp. Do you have any pics of how they're mounted there?
 
I have super rusted out internal doors, and its going to be an issue. It may be what ends up killing this truck. My PS window guts are all messed up, and the door doesn't open from the inside. I'm sure its just the Zbar fell off, but window falls off track, and I really dont' want to deal with it.

As long as the DS window works, I'm happy, but its not going to last forever. I spray the channels down with WD-40 almost daily to make it easy.

Bad doors may kill this GMT-400 platform.

The drivers door on my 98 K1500 was absolutely Fubar one winter, i already had a bad interior door handle, so i was rolling the window up and down to open it from the outside...the hinge pins and bushings were totalled and the door was getting increasingly hard to shut and the temps were dropping to -40 and colder. So i would slam the door and it in turn ripped the sheetmetal from the door jamb around the striker...so when it did shut it was loose and would make a shit load of noise over bumps.

THEN the window track had busted from all the door troubles and the window would only roll up a little over halfway...which is not fun when you are experiencing dangerously cold temperatures everyday....to cap it all off the outer door handle had finally broke and nothing on the door worked at all. So ii had to suck it up and pay to have it fixed.

If only my shop teacher wasn't such a douche i might have been able to get it fixed in a nice warm shop and learned a thing or two...but i had to bring it to a dealership (while i was enrolled in auto tech). Everything is still working great with the door still though even after 4 years or so since that happened.
 
That looks really sharp. Do you have any pics of how they're mounted there?

If I remember ill snap a picture today...its very simple, i just bolted them directly to the bumper. There was even holes there already so i didnt have to worry about drilling more
 
My '95 reg cab has that 60/40 split bench seat; it's original as far as I know.

Good to hear the quality/comments regarding LMC's bumper/rub strips. I've been planning to get the diesel/intake holes bumper w/ bumper guards/strips from LMC. As I live about 40 miles from LMC's location, I'll generally pick things up "will call" & check out the quality/looks of the parts in my order before leaving.
 
Looks great, by the way, what part of CT are you?

Thanks...Im in bethlehem, which is about 20min out from waterbury..in the sticks. I work down near stamford however, so thats where the truck is most of the time.

Smithville....nice to see you on the forum, havent heard from you in a while. Yea I wasnt very impressed with the LMC order. The bumper really wasnt that bad, but the impact strips definetly were. Id even consider buying some elsewhere so long as i knew they were of better quality. I didnt bother shopping around much as i had a gift certificate for LMC and they had what I needed.

As for the foglight switch...did a little investigating and found it was for a s-10 or blazer originaly. But as far as im concerned it looks like it belongs with the rest of the dash buttons, so ill just have to find a home for it somewhere. Ive also got a high idle switch on the way and im not sure where thats going yet either. Kind of have to think about these things before I start to go drill holes
 
What are you using for a high idle switch?

I actually found a rocker switch online that is marked "High Idle" It is only a two position switch with "off" and "on" so I will have to choose just one idle speed unless i add a secondary switch somewhere to change between the high and low speeds if desired. I placed the order some time ago now and still havent recieved it yet....so untill I get it im not going to recommend the seller to anyone :D
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So now that work has gotten busy, just about all my little projects have come to a stop. Just finished up some general maintnence like a service and replacing the serp. belt. I did however find some time to remount the "turbo power" engine cover. I know some people dislike them and they hold heat..yada yada....but it was taking up shelf space in the barn. Plus i think it gives the underhood a little bit cleaner look.

Now I took a little bit more time to mount the cover than you would expect. I have a habbit of spending too much time on simple projects like this :rolleyes5: The issue was with my exposed fuel lines and relocated filter, the cover wouldnt sit down far enough to reach the intake holes. So I came up with the idea of putting it on "stilts" so it would sit higher up above the intake.

I took 4 metric bolts and welded a small piece of round stock to the top of each one. I then drilled a small hole in the round stock to accept a hairpin clip. I think the reason these covers are so often left off the engine is because they are such a pain to remove and install without proper tools. I decided to use pins for easy on and easy off. The bolts then threaded into the manifold with a nut to lock them at the proper height. Like I said....simple project taken a bit too far, but im happy :D

-Nick

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That's a nice idea!:thumbsup:
I'd be tempted to put a small cable between each pair of hairpin clips so they didn't lose themselves but it wouldn't look as nice.
 
Thes split benches out of a Tahoe or Burb will bolt directly into a extended cab rig. My red split console jobber came out of a 98 Silverado extended cab and i too had to cut the rear seat support. What i ended up doing was cutting a section out of it and welding it back together. Looks great and is still very safe! regular cab trucks came with a bench seat, but the bottom part was a solid bench, still has the fold down center console, but it more acts as the arm rest. Will try to find a pic.
 
My brothers '98 has the solid bench, w/console.
 

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