randomid25
Rattle-Trap Cap'n
Not to give your grief here Missy, but shouldn't this be in the 6.2 section? Great thread. I'm waitin on pics.
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Missy goes full retro
- Thread starter Missy Good Wench
- Start date
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
No mods needed
The 203 uses the outer shift arm to control the H-N-L function and the inner arm controls the differential locking sleave assembly.
There is no connection between the two.
The original factory shifter did it all with some fancy MONKEY motion and a few internal parts.
This kept it all neat and tidy on one stick.
The inner workings on the 205 are quite different in their layout.
The differential lock on the 203 is in the back of the box and the H-N-L is up front.
The only reason that the factory did not use two stick was of course esthetics and probably cost.
The times were changing and the push to make trucks look and feel less like trucks was well under way.
The auto hubs came out in the early 80's (YUK) and things have been changing every since.
My Daughter and Son inlaws 99 GMC just has a little knob on the dash for 4x4.
I keep telling the Kid that this (Pointing and the little electric knob) is NOT 4 wheeling. ):h
I am going to wait till I get things a little farther along and then I can fabricate the new "Twins" to that they will fit right through the original hole in the floor of the 91.
There are twin stick boots available cheap and then all I will need is a nice bezel to hold it to the floor.
I dont want to have to "HACK" the floor and the carpet all up. :eek
The 205 rails can be mod'd to allow the twins and If I remember right they can even be setup to run Front wheel only ????????
MGW
Yep, the 205 twinstick lets you shift the front and rear independently from each other.. The "fwd" lets you take tight turns.
Have you looked at jeffs bronco graveyard? iirc they'll have the shifters and boots..
Acesneights1
New Member
He's just trying to bring some life in over there. Been a little stale. Doesn't matter.
Acesneights1
New Member
I still HATE 10 and 12 bolts diffs. No fun watching the wheel and axles pass you when the rear blows and it's 4am and your piss drunk and were out 4 wheelin all night. Happended to me twice. 1st time I got a jack and came back and shoved the whole thing back in and drove like 5 mph back to the shop pulling over frequently to jack it up and shove the wheel/axle back in. 2nd time I was drunk and about 700 ft from my house and it was 4am and I just threw the wheel(35 Mickey T) and axle in teh back, locked the truck in 4wd and dragged it home on it's ass to a wild spark show. Cut that junk out the next day and dropped in a nice 14 bolt/Dana 44(big hub) and never worried about blowing a rear again.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Hell I will dual post and irritate everyone. 
I will put a 6.5 sticker on the truck to make it better ok
I can start the official "Project is off an rolling" thread over there :thumbsup:
MGW
I will put a 6.5 sticker on the truck to make it better ok
I can start the official "Project is off an rolling" thread over there :thumbsup:
MGW
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
For my application the 10 Bolt with the "C" clip that breaks "When your Piss drunk" will do fine.
I don't plan on beating this little rig anyway. About the only wheeling will be in the snow around here in the winter.
Hard slamming sideways in ruts is what will pop the "button" off the end of the axle.
Then you drag the arse end of it home in the dirt.
I will Post the New thread over at the 6.2 area and get some pix taken today up and rolling.
Its Official, I actually turned wrenches today on the project.
Thanks for all the interest
MGW
I don't plan on beating this little rig anyway. About the only wheeling will be in the snow around here in the winter.
Hard slamming sideways in ruts is what will pop the "button" off the end of the axle.
Then you drag the arse end of it home in the dirt.
I will Post the New thread over at the 6.2 area and get some pix taken today up and rolling.
Its Official, I actually turned wrenches today on the project.
Thanks for all the interest
MGW
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Missy's Retro 91 project is officially on now
I will post the pics and other goodies here now on the 91 Project.
OK
Here is the gory details
1991 Chevy 1500 4x4 Burb with a 350 Gasser and 700R4 NP241 Tcase
1991 Chevy Burb 1500 Silverado Red/black with Red interior
Donor truck
1987 Burb 1500 4x4 with 6.2 diesel,700R4, NP208 Tcase
THE PLAN
Swap the 6.2 into the 91 Burb using the 700R4 from the 91
Now it gets interesting.
Scrounged up an NP 203 T case from a 1976 Chevy 1 ton pickup
Gonna bolt the 203 behind the 700R
The goal is to return to the "Good Old days" of full time 4x4 in a little bit newer truck.
Much of my ideas so far are still subject to change as things get up to speed.
Twin stick shifters are definately on the story board right now and likley will remain.
Whether I adapt the 700R to the 203 using a spacer between the TH350 adapter and the 700 or use an aftermarket tail shaft and then the 350 adapter only is still a guess as to how it will shake out.
The 700R in the 91 is very fresh, has a shift kit and works sweet.
I hate to rip it all down just to install a shorter shaft ??????
Now the exhaust system on the 87 is pristine ( we dont have salt here)
With the fuel tank out the tail pipes will slide over the rear axle and forward.
The head pipes are such that I can use a saws all and cut them about 4 inches ahead of the Mufflers and then reassemble after the parts are in the 91.
The brackets and exhaust mounts are all in fine condition and can be either unbolted or the rivets removed and the parts swapped.
So far things look like I will only have to swap the parts for the RH side. The 91 has the exhaust on the LH side.
Drive shafts are going to get interesting. I hope to be able to use the front shaft from the 87 or the 91 as they have CV joints.
The NP203 requires at least one shaft to have a CV joint to keep everything smooth while running at speed.
I may decide to use a CV joint on both shafts depending ????? Jury is still out.
Today I swamped out the shop area and cleaned up the crap.
The 87 has been in this area since before Christmas.
Rigged up a little carter electric fuel pump and a long hose and pumped the fuel tank out.
Got 15 gallons of nice clean ULSD from the sucker. Promptly poured some in the Bobcat machine :thumbsup:
Zero salt made the tank removal relatively easy.
Wire brushed the bolts on the straps and soaked them with skunk piss.
A little tug with an 11/16 wrench and the little buggers came right off.
Got the tank out easy enough along with the "DIESEL FILL SPOUT" :smile5:
I will install all the goodies from the diesel so the rig looks proper.
Still thinking about what I want to do for the instrument panel.
The fuel gauge from the 87 should drop right into the 91 panel and go right to work.
The 91 has an electric speedo and the 87 a cable.
Closer inspection may reveal that I can install the 87 speedo into the 91 cluster and be done with it.
A fresh cable to hook the NP 203 up to the speedo and Poof, all good to go.
The other option is a total custom dash cluster with Auto meter gauges.
Jury still out here too.
Under the hood of the 87 is still just as it left the factory for the most part.
My intent is to use a 93 6.5 serp drive setup to clean the area up a bunch.
The 91 being a gasser has the AC pump on the RH side and the alternator over on the LH side.
Using the serp drive will allow the use of the original wiring harness off the mouse motor and almost everything will plug right in.
I will use the large red power wire from the coil +++ to feed a large relay.
The relay will operate the IP, the cold advance feed and fast idle.
Pretty basic here.
Will need to make a wiring harness for the cold advance and control it with a temp switch either in the RH head or the water Xover.
I will likely wire in the original type glow plug controler that was used on the 87 and cut the glow plug wiring harness from the 87 and graft it into use on the 91.
The radiator is near new in the 87 (plastic and aluminum) should be brass copper.
I have a new RH battery tray from the general. The LH one that is in the 91 is in fine shape.
Will use the Hydro boost and M/C from the 87 along with the hoses and such.
The oil cooler lines on the 87 are a bit rough looking. I will likely replace with a different cooler and aftermaket lines.
Possibly braided reusable hose ???? Jury still out.
The cruise control is not high on my priority list.
The one on the 87 is ??????????/ who knows if it even works.
The one from the 91 will not work if I deleat the output sensor from the system but that is just too bad.
I rarely use cruise anyway.
I will keep the 87 components in good order and possibly reinstall them on the 91
Not sure exactly how the 87 is set up for cruise. Possibly run off the speedo or a remote secondary box.
Not high on the list at all.
Well not too much to show so far but here is what I have.
Missy
I will post the pics and other goodies here now on the 91 Project.
OK
Here is the gory details
1991 Chevy 1500 4x4 Burb with a 350 Gasser and 700R4 NP241 Tcase
1991 Chevy Burb 1500 Silverado Red/black with Red interior
Donor truck
1987 Burb 1500 4x4 with 6.2 diesel,700R4, NP208 Tcase
THE PLAN
Swap the 6.2 into the 91 Burb using the 700R4 from the 91
Now it gets interesting.
Scrounged up an NP 203 T case from a 1976 Chevy 1 ton pickup
Gonna bolt the 203 behind the 700R
The goal is to return to the "Good Old days" of full time 4x4 in a little bit newer truck.
Much of my ideas so far are still subject to change as things get up to speed.
Twin stick shifters are definately on the story board right now and likley will remain.
Whether I adapt the 700R to the 203 using a spacer between the TH350 adapter and the 700 or use an aftermarket tail shaft and then the 350 adapter only is still a guess as to how it will shake out.
The 700R in the 91 is very fresh, has a shift kit and works sweet.
I hate to rip it all down just to install a shorter shaft ??????
Now the exhaust system on the 87 is pristine ( we dont have salt here)
With the fuel tank out the tail pipes will slide over the rear axle and forward.
The head pipes are such that I can use a saws all and cut them about 4 inches ahead of the Mufflers and then reassemble after the parts are in the 91.
The brackets and exhaust mounts are all in fine condition and can be either unbolted or the rivets removed and the parts swapped.
So far things look like I will only have to swap the parts for the RH side. The 91 has the exhaust on the LH side.
Drive shafts are going to get interesting. I hope to be able to use the front shaft from the 87 or the 91 as they have CV joints.
The NP203 requires at least one shaft to have a CV joint to keep everything smooth while running at speed.
I may decide to use a CV joint on both shafts depending ????? Jury is still out.
Today I swamped out the shop area and cleaned up the crap.
The 87 has been in this area since before Christmas.
Rigged up a little carter electric fuel pump and a long hose and pumped the fuel tank out.
Got 15 gallons of nice clean ULSD from the sucker. Promptly poured some in the Bobcat machine :thumbsup:
Zero salt made the tank removal relatively easy.
Wire brushed the bolts on the straps and soaked them with skunk piss.
A little tug with an 11/16 wrench and the little buggers came right off.
Got the tank out easy enough along with the "DIESEL FILL SPOUT" :smile5:
I will install all the goodies from the diesel so the rig looks proper.
Still thinking about what I want to do for the instrument panel.
The fuel gauge from the 87 should drop right into the 91 panel and go right to work.
The 91 has an electric speedo and the 87 a cable.
Closer inspection may reveal that I can install the 87 speedo into the 91 cluster and be done with it.
A fresh cable to hook the NP 203 up to the speedo and Poof, all good to go.
The other option is a total custom dash cluster with Auto meter gauges.
Jury still out here too.
Under the hood of the 87 is still just as it left the factory for the most part.
My intent is to use a 93 6.5 serp drive setup to clean the area up a bunch.
The 91 being a gasser has the AC pump on the RH side and the alternator over on the LH side.
Using the serp drive will allow the use of the original wiring harness off the mouse motor and almost everything will plug right in.
I will use the large red power wire from the coil +++ to feed a large relay.
The relay will operate the IP, the cold advance feed and fast idle.
Pretty basic here.
Will need to make a wiring harness for the cold advance and control it with a temp switch either in the RH head or the water Xover.
I will likely wire in the original type glow plug controler that was used on the 87 and cut the glow plug wiring harness from the 87 and graft it into use on the 91.
The radiator is near new in the 87 (plastic and aluminum) should be brass copper.
I have a new RH battery tray from the general. The LH one that is in the 91 is in fine shape.
Will use the Hydro boost and M/C from the 87 along with the hoses and such.
The oil cooler lines on the 87 are a bit rough looking. I will likely replace with a different cooler and aftermaket lines.
Possibly braided reusable hose ???? Jury still out.
The cruise control is not high on my priority list.
The one on the 87 is ??????????/ who knows if it even works.
The one from the 91 will not work if I deleat the output sensor from the system but that is just too bad.
I rarely use cruise anyway.
I will keep the 87 components in good order and possibly reinstall them on the 91
Not sure exactly how the 87 is set up for cruise. Possibly run off the speedo or a remote secondary box.
Not high on the list at all.
Well not too much to show so far but here is what I have.
Missy
Attachments
just a number
Active Member
can I ask why your bothering with the old glow plug controller? why not just put the manual system in. simple and easy to fix. I know the CV used the run on the front driveshaft right at the transfer. I can see why you'd put on on the rear. aren't the only neede for short shafts?
P.S. My 79 burb was the exact same paint job as your 87. I had the read glass/ tailgate deal though.
P.S. My 79 burb was the exact same paint job as your 87. I had the read glass/ tailgate deal though.
Acesneights1
New Member
So will holeshots with a 454 LS6....
Acesneights1
New Member
That burb is sweet...
davo727
Member
I think our Missy can post wherever she wants to and thats fine
davo727
Member
Yep thats red inside! Perfect though and too nice to mess with.
I drove a red interior 80 Firebird for 11 years, if I ever get around to restoring that car I will go back black with it. I hardly ever sell anything, had that car for 23 years now.
I drove a red interior 80 Firebird for 11 years, if I ever get around to restoring that car I will go back black with it. I hardly ever sell anything, had that car for 23 years now.
randomid25
Rattle-Trap Cap'n
Missy, I wish I were closer to you. I would buy some of the body parts off the 87.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
The 87 is not all that bad.
The interior is a tad ratty but fixable. The body needs a little love on the RH rear (little dent by the fuel cap area.
NO RUST THOUGH at all.
Using a CV joint on both ends just makes things smoother is all.
A drive shaft with standard joints does some wierd stuff.
The shaft speeds up and slows down 4 times per revolution. Each joint has to be running in the same included angle as the one on the opposite end of the shaft to run smooth.
+- 1-2 degrees max of each other
A CV (Double joint) with the two back to back U joints cancel each other out and this eliminates the cycling.
SO
With a CV joint on one end the angle of the shaft and the need to have both angles the same then becomes a moot point.
At this time the only issue is the one joint.
Having joints running "IN PHASE" is also an issue with drive lines. The crosses MUST be runing in the same plane (looking at each other) if not they will vibrate horribly.
I will pass judgement on the drivelines as time goes by.
************************************************
I am looking at a 6 inch spring and block lift kit for the truck.
I want to get a good kit that comes with all the needed parts.
Any suggestions as to brand is welcome here.
I have looked at Skyjacker, Rancho and a few others ???????????
If anyone has some good things to say based on usage of a particular brand of kit on the Old style straight axle trucks, I am all ears.
***ACES ****
Yesssss the 91 is definately a Puff.
I could hardly believe how nice it was when I first saw it.
Its never been wheeled for sure. Was a ladies town rig for all its life.
She quit driving it because the paint started to flake on the hood a little and she could not deal with "What people would think"
Her hubby offered to get the rig painted. "Oh what will people think if I drive a repainted car"
Now this gal is in need of some therapy me thinks.
Time for her to lay on that couch and open he minf a bit.
NOW I can deal with a repainted hood, some 35 inch tires and a nasty old winch a hangin out front with the cable dangling down in the wind.
Missy
The interior is a tad ratty but fixable. The body needs a little love on the RH rear (little dent by the fuel cap area.
NO RUST THOUGH at all.
Using a CV joint on both ends just makes things smoother is all.
A drive shaft with standard joints does some wierd stuff.
The shaft speeds up and slows down 4 times per revolution. Each joint has to be running in the same included angle as the one on the opposite end of the shaft to run smooth.
+- 1-2 degrees max of each other
A CV (Double joint) with the two back to back U joints cancel each other out and this eliminates the cycling.
SO
With a CV joint on one end the angle of the shaft and the need to have both angles the same then becomes a moot point.
At this time the only issue is the one joint.
Having joints running "IN PHASE" is also an issue with drive lines. The crosses MUST be runing in the same plane (looking at each other) if not they will vibrate horribly.
I will pass judgement on the drivelines as time goes by.
************************************************
I am looking at a 6 inch spring and block lift kit for the truck.
I want to get a good kit that comes with all the needed parts.
Any suggestions as to brand is welcome here.
I have looked at Skyjacker, Rancho and a few others ???????????
If anyone has some good things to say based on usage of a particular brand of kit on the Old style straight axle trucks, I am all ears.
***ACES ****
Yesssss the 91 is definately a Puff.
I could hardly believe how nice it was when I first saw it.
Its never been wheeled for sure. Was a ladies town rig for all its life.
She quit driving it because the paint started to flake on the hood a little and she could not deal with "What people would think"
Her hubby offered to get the rig painted. "Oh what will people think if I drive a repainted car"
Now this gal is in need of some therapy me thinks.
Time for her to lay on that couch and open he minf a bit.
NOW I can deal with a repainted hood, some 35 inch tires and a nasty old winch a hangin out front with the cable dangling down in the wind.
Missy
Last edited:
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Just a number
Well now
I have others in the family who may drive the truck and having a basically fool proof system is a good thing.
Very easy to wire in the original "type" controler and go with it.
I agree the manual setup with a push button is great but for some folks the "turn the key" wait till the light goes out and go is the best deal.
I dont need the grief of someone burning out the plugs or Not being able to start the rig because they did not glow iot long enough.
Also I am trying to do the conversion in a way that the truck looks like factory in most respects.
May eventually have to go through emissions testing here ???? and those folks can be a real pain.
I am swapping all the fuel system components from the 87. Tank, lines and all the diesel stuff including the diesel fuel gauge. The emissions stickers, diesel fuel only sticker on the fuel door.
I can't change the Vin number but I always carry a 5 gallon bucket of BS and a trowel to lay it on with so were good to go.
So there ya have my reasons.
Missy
Well now
I have others in the family who may drive the truck and having a basically fool proof system is a good thing.
Very easy to wire in the original "type" controler and go with it.
I agree the manual setup with a push button is great but for some folks the "turn the key" wait till the light goes out and go is the best deal.
I dont need the grief of someone burning out the plugs or Not being able to start the rig because they did not glow iot long enough.
Also I am trying to do the conversion in a way that the truck looks like factory in most respects.
May eventually have to go through emissions testing here ???? and those folks can be a real pain.
I am swapping all the fuel system components from the 87. Tank, lines and all the diesel stuff including the diesel fuel gauge. The emissions stickers, diesel fuel only sticker on the fuel door.
I can't change the Vin number but I always carry a 5 gallon bucket of BS and a trowel to lay it on with so were good to go.
So there ya have my reasons.
Missy
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Aces
I had a 454 in a 75 Blazer and it did fine. Now it did have full time T case.
Used to take great delight in smoking the hydes off the line (ALL 4)
DAVO
Just to keep things where they belong in the forum, I have started the official thread for the build over at the 6.2 section.
Sure hope I dont end up building a 6.5 for the thing.
Now that would mean I would have to move again HUH ):h
MGW
I had a 454 in a 75 Blazer and it did fine. Now it did have full time T case.
Used to take great delight in smoking the hydes off the line (ALL 4)
DAVO
Just to keep things where they belong in the forum, I have started the official thread for the build over at the 6.2 section.
Sure hope I dont end up building a 6.5 for the thing.
Now that would mean I would have to move again HUH ):h
MGW
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Hell I will dual post and irritate everyone.
I will put a 6.5 sticker on the truck to make it better ok
I can start the official "Project is off an rolling" thread over there :thumbsup:
MGW
Merged into 1 thread now
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Great DOC Thanks
Good idea, will keep the whole thing so it can be read in Chonological order.
Good idea, will keep the whole thing so it can be read in Chonological order.
Acesneights1
New Member
All the kits are pretty equal althoug I have always thought Rancho was a little better but I don't think thye make alot for that gen anymore. I believe the is the softride and HD front springs. I went with HD(extra leaf) for my CUCV cause it rides like a bucket anyway and with the diesel and future snowplow/winch I think it it's best for me but I did use softrides in my 91 Jimmy(see photo album) and they were fine with the diesel.