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Missy goes full retro

dragogt said:
Ah shucks, whats a little hay fire.. Hey it'd be warm. lol
Click to expand...

Oh yeah...:D Just ask Mr. Scarecrow what he thinks of that staement.
Missy, Any chance you could snap a pic of where your block heater is mounted on the burb so I could prin it. I think I'm going to send the truck out to have it done. Just got too much on my plate this week and we are in for another cold snap.
 
Here is a piccy of the DaHoooley engine. (same heater loaction as the Burb)
The white arrow on the LH side of the engine points to the location.

Middle soft plug on the LH side


Missy
 

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  • Heater location.JPG
    Heater location.JPG
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Well today was a major work day around here for me.

Cleaned both Pellet stoves (That are burning shells) Got them back up and running again by about 11 am

Dunged out the 94 Burb and got it ready for the swaperoo coming up thursday.

Cleaned our 4 stalls in the horse barn and that about wrapped the day.

Had Pizza for dinner and I am ready to crawl through a hot bath and head for the sack.

Curl up with a movie on my lap top and be done with it.

Stove always work sooooooo much better after getting all cleaned and blown out.

Turn on the draft blowers and blow the heat exchangers out with the air hose from the compressor.

Does not work well if ya forget to turn the draft blower on. Makes a Helluv mess in the house, ask me how I know this. :eek:


The shells leave a lot more fly ash than pellets do.

Oh well, for the cheap price I can take the time and effort.



Missy
 
Acesneights1 said:
Oh yeah...:D Just ask Mr. Scarecrow what he thinks of that staement.
Missy, Any chance you could snap a pic of where your block heater is mounted on the burb so I could prin it. I think I'm going to send the truck out to have it done. Just got too much on my plate this week and we are in for another cold snap.
Click to expand...

):h It sounded good.. lol
 
The fuel pressure needs to be no more than about 5 PSI or there can be issues with the IP

Never heard of using these pumps. If you installed a pressure regulator to keep the PSI to no more than 5 PSI they should be fine. ????????///

I have always used NAPA replacements when I needed a fresh one.


Missy
 
The deal went together today at around noon.
The 89 Blazer is here now. YESSSSSSSSSSSS

The Burb headed for the coast with its new owners 3 kids and a dog.

Rig is in remarkably wonderful shape.\

I will get more piccy's tomorrow or as soon as the weather lets up a bit.


Missy
 
I'm running 8 psi right now at idle which I believe probably drops a little under load. I don't have a permanent FP gauge yet. I set my Raptor with a hand held gauge. I don't believe the Holley pumps have a check valve so they could also end up with drain back issues as well.
 
the reason i asked i have seen them on 5.9 cummings. as a holley red pump is preset at 6 psi and alot more gpm seems like it might work on 6.5 the one on the cummings had a blue pump but it made 500 hp on dyno run .looks like kennedy diesel offer dmax lift pump now for the 6.5 i guess i ll try the red pump see what happen
 
To my knowledge the Holley Pumps are not popular with Cummins guys. Most run either Air Dog or Fass. Holley can't even compare to those.
 
New years day has dawned and I am feeling pretty darned good.

Making a list of little stuff that needs fixing on the Blazer now.
First on the hit list is the rear drive shaft vibration.
Not sure wasup there.
Likely a Joint bad but ????????

The dome lights dont work unless I turn the dash switch and then only the under dash light comes on.
Need to check the bulbs first then move one from there.

PO had a tach clamped to the steering column shift sleave and it is a royal PITA as I hit my knee on the thing when I crawl my lanky frame into the command chair.

May just unhook the tach and toss that thing in the garbage.

I am going to start looking for a rig that has the Burl wood dash and accent strips that I can scarf up for the little beast.

Gotta be some laying around in the bone yard me thinks.

Rig is spanky new tires (33-12.50X15) on nice alloy wheels too.

License plate number is one I have already got in memory. Just a catchy number letter combo that stuck quickly.

Just very very happy with this catch.

Hopefully I can run the little rig for this year without having to incur an real repair costs.

Was out last afternoon and decided to climb on it a bit. Really runs great.


Happy new year to all here at the truck stop.


Missy
 
What a great new year

Missy Good Wench said:
The deal went together today at around noon. The 89 Blazer is here now. YESSSSSSSSSSSS
The Burb headed for the coast with its new owners 3 kids and a dog.
Rig is in remarkably wonderful shape.\
I will get more piccy's tomorrow or as soon as the weather lets up a bit.

Missy
Click to expand...

YAYYY!!!
:thumbsup: ):h :D :willynilly: :cheers2::lmao::bow::fest30::partay::eek:uttahere: :banana::unwrap:nanawrench: :th_CONGRA34:
 
Gonna head down in a few and drop the sahft out. I have a perfect one left from the 84 I had and will just swap them.

I found two repair invoices in a folder of stuff with the rig that mentioned shaft vibes and new Joints.

Maybe a rebuilt shaft that was not phased right when the welded the yokes on ????

The 4 inch lift kit could contribute to a drive line issue but this is a nasty vibe at lower speed.

I will definately check it out though.

Missy
 
Between downpours I crawled under the Blazer and it took little more than a few seconds to find that the rear U joint was totally trashed.

I yanked the shaft out right quick and it was very evident then that the rear cross was totally gone.

Rusty inside as well as chewed up.

Swapped in the SPARE shaft which took all of 15 Minutes total R&R time and all is much better.

With the lift kit it is most likely that the joint angles front and rear are not exactly the same.

I may look into doing a CV Joint on that rear shaft.

There are kits available to use a CV joint on the differential end of the shaft.

For now though it can stay as it is.

Too wet outside to do any other stuff.

I do want to check the oil levels in the engine and tranny.

While I was under the rig I spotted the rear Brake line from the frame to the axle was rubbing on the Aftermarket installed dual exhaust pipe that is now running in front of the fuel tank.

Line needs to be replaced as it is chaffed a lot.

Probably order up an extended line from Rough country as they are wire wound to stop chaffing.

Rig looks great on the bottom side.

Very little signs of leakage or other issues. Not at all bad for a 20 year old truck.

I am looking for the little plastic piece that covers the RH front seat tilt lever assembly.

This is the little plastic cover that fastens to the seat right where it folds forward.
There are two pieces, an upper and a lower one. I need the upper one (gray in color)

Missy
 
If it helps you can see in my Photo Albums I have two there plus I had more than I have pics of. I had atleast 6 Blazers all with min of 4 inch lift and never needed a cv. IN fact the broncos used them and they were a nightmare so my advice would be not to use it. What you can do it cut some 2x2 square tube and use it for spacer blocks where the crossmember bolts to the frame to lower the tranny and T case but with a 4 inch I really don't think it's nessicary. The 1/2 ton u joints and diffs in my opinion were a major weak point and the beauty of these vintage trucks are a rotted out 3/4 ton donor is usually availible for less than a few hundred dollars and then you can upgrade to a 4 inch driveshaft and much larger joint. It's all bolt in and fits perfect.
 
Never know what might happen.

I likely wont swap in any 3/4 ton stuff.

I have a set of 10 bolt axles with 3.73 gears in the 87 diesel Burb.

I may swap those into the Blazer to get rid of the 3.42's

With the tall tires the 3.42's are just too steep.

The issue I think with the drive shaft is that the differential pinion shaft is not parallel to the T case shaft.

If these two shafts are not parallel the angles of the two joints will be way off and Bide vibes is the result.

I will crawl under this weekend and use my angle meter to see wassup.

The lift kit is a spring lift and they installed a shim to adjust the pinion angle soooooooooooooooo there is little to do until I see where the angles are.

Blazer, Broncos and other short wheelbase rigs can have issues with drive line angles when they get lifted.

The rear shaft is quite short and the angle is steep as compared to a Burb or a full sized pickup.


No biggy, just gotta giterdone is all.

Missy
 
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