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Looks like it's time for a lift pump and a "FOR SALE" sign...

Mezmorized

Mezmorized

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Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
After getting the issue fixed with the converter bolts backing off and also taking the starter nose out, we made a 3 hour trip to go race last weekend. The trip down was good except for one of the trailer brakes kept sticking.

On the way back, about 30 minutes from home it started... The truck started "missing" and then I noticed that it didn't like anything above 2000 rpm. I made it home, backed into the laneway, put it in park and shortly after it started to "miss" again, I revved it a bit and it quit. Didn't hear the lift pump like I normally do when I shut the truck off.

I can't afford a break-down that far from home. I have spent too much money to make this truck work well only to get something like that happen to me. It's time to sell it (once I fix it) and probably get a motorhome instead.

Can something like a Holley Red pump work or some low pressure in-line fuel pump that isn't going to break the bank?
 
Funny thing is that even when its not working right it still works. It is often our desire not to mess with things on the road. And now I even find myself with an intermittent hard start, which could be air in the fuel lines or a failing IP, as its more likely when hot. I have simply made it work and not really addressed it or tested anything but it runs good while driving and scanner doesnt show anything bad. I also recently noticed sputtering on low fuel tank, and I mean like 8 gallons left so I think my tank sock is clogged and fuel is sloshing lower then the bypass. But I keep driving it knowing it gets me from point A to point B without much trouble. If it was some other vehicle I wasnt really familiar with I'd probably be in a lot more trouble and would get things fixed ASAP.
 
buddy said:
Funny thing is that even when its not working right it still works. It is often our desire not to mess with things on the road. And now I even find myself with an intermittent hard start, which could be air in the fuel lines or a failing IP, as its more likely when hot. I have simply made it work and not really addressed it or tested anything but it runs good while driving and scanner doesnt show anything bad. I also recently noticed sputtering on low fuel tank, and I mean like 8 gallons left so I think my tank sock is clogged and fuel is sloshing lower then the bypass. But I keep driving it knowing it gets me from point A to point B without much trouble. If it was some other vehicle I wasnt really familiar with I'd probably be in a lot more trouble and would get things fixed ASAP.
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Looks like the PMD may be giving up???
 
sounds fuel related to me. 6 psi pressure is all you need to keep it running. hook up a temp gauge to it and see where it is. there is a screen on the back of the lp that can get clogged if you or the po ever had a filter fail or didn't clean out the trash when replacing one. tee a line from the FFM feed and exit to see pressures. i wouldn't get rid of a truck, after spending all that time/money, unless i got my use out of it. you will never get what you put into it.
 
JMJNet said:
Looks like the PMD may be giving up???
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Not in my case, PMD change makes no difference, still have one on the intake going strong for 4 years.

For the OP, if you have not done the OPS relay mod then this kind of scenario is about guaranteed in the course of a year or two of towing. If you have the OPS relay mod then the stock-type LPs often get weak within a year and then fail within a few. So you're looking at what might be the second most common problem after PMDs. Its something to be prepared for, and not difficult.
 
Mezmorized said:
After getting the issue fixed with the converter bolts backing off and also taking the starter nose out, we made a 3 hour trip to go race last weekend. The trip down was good except for one of the trailer brakes kept sticking.

On the way back, about 30 minutes from home it started... The truck started "missing" and then I noticed that it didn't like anything above 2000 rpm. I made it home, backed into the laneway, put it in park and shortly after it started to "miss" again, I revved it a bit and it quit. Didn't hear the lift pump like I normally do when I shut the truck off.

I can't afford a break-down that far from home. I have spent too much money to make this truck work well only to get something like that happen to me. It's time to sell it (once I fix it) and probably get a motorhome instead.

Can something like a Holley Red pump work or some low pressure in-line fuel pump that isn't going to break the bank?
Click to expand...
Put a stock one back on if you are selling it. Rockauto I think has them reasonable. Why modify something you are selling. Keep is simple...
 
ak diesel driver said:
talk to Leroy about a Walbro
Click to expand...

Get one of these and forget about it. My truck eats lift pumps for breakfast and I haven't killed the Walbro even with bad fuel that ate the tank up. Most gassers die and have to be towed when the fuel pump quits.

Even a new truck can die away from home. Odds are better that it won't. I would guess an unknown truck will be worse than a known known.
 
a friend told me about a co-workers brother who works up in alaska, has a two year old dodge cummins, and it died and left him stranded in an area with no cell phone coverage. had to walk 10 miles till he got to a roadside telephone.

point of that pointless story is that new trucks can leave you stranded too. nothing is truly reliable these days, due to the electrical systems on board, so I would keep what you have.
I have never had a 6.xL IDI GM diesel truck leave me stranded anywhere, and I dont forsee that record being broke. Dad tried to ruin my record, taking the very sick 96 to an auction with the gooseneck in tow, luckily a friend towed the gooseneck home after a panel of judges (his auction buddies gathered around the open hood) deemed the truck got an unladen trip home to enhance the chances of it actually making it home.

It may be a slow, sputtery trip home, but she wont let you down. when the noble steed dies in the driveway after making a multi-hour voyage, that kind of loyalty needs repaid with loyalty on your part.

in short, fix the ol tramp and keep it! :D
 
X2 on the repair & keep it, newer truck unless buying new-new with warranty is mega $$$, this one is paid for, you know it's quirks even newer used will be an unknown and significantly more complex and expensive to repair, plus you got us to help you out :)
 
Sounds like the decision has been made to sale it, though.
My first reaction was also to recommend an LP.

He is just asking if he should put a stock LP on it.
 
Stock L/P for sure would be the cheapest easiest way. Another cheaper way than buying a new L/P is a Carter unit. I am running one on my truck and it has been excellent for about a year now. You can get a used one cheap off of Dodge guys, they say they are junk. I bought two Carters and some fittings for about 60 bucks. I get a solid 12PSI pressure. But in your case stock would be the way to go.
 
ak diesel driver said:
talk to Leroy about a Walbro
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Absolutely, I am very happy with mine, I think what happens here alot is Guys will get one of these ol 6.5s for next to nothing with a Bazillion miles on them and expect To never have to put a dime in them, In reality about 1 evening of reading this forum will tell them everything they need to know to make these trucks darn near bulletproof, Even if you have to spend 2-3 grand to get it in shape you will be 10's of thousands of $$$ ahead of a New truck, But instead they spend the bare minimum to keep them going and get upset every time you have to drop a c note
 
racedaymechanic said:
.......Guys will get one of these ol 6.5s for next to nothing with a Bazillion miles on them and expect To never have to put a dime in them, In reality about 1 evening of reading this forum will tell them everything they need to know to make these trucks darn near bulletproof, Even if you have to spend 2-3 grand to get it in shape you will be 10's of thousands of $$$ ahead of a New truck, But instead they spend the bare minimum to keep them going and get upset every time you have to drop a c note
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true, true. spend money on upgrades and go fast dreams but skip the essentials. down the road it leaves them walking and then what, "it's a piece of junk". i am having trouble with my trans but it has over 250,000 miles and i expect that. i've owned a 6.5 for over 10 years and know what i got.
 
That is the truth about new trucks and the electronic systems on board, they can leave you stranded too. And you're not missing much with how they are setup nowadays. I'm a mechanic for Freightliner, so I know all about it. I am always thinking it in the back of my head, but every setup is better off with mechanical injection. That combination with the diesel engine is pretty much bombproof. :thumbsup:
 
Our initial intention was to get a motorhome to haul the enclosed trailer and the race car... We were in a bit of a hurry and went with a diesel pick up instead. So before throwing any more money at it and still having hoped we had purchased a motorhome, I will fix it, and sell it (probably with all the stuff I already got for it.), then get a motorhome.
 
Get a 6.5 Motor Home! :hihi:

On a side note, I put +80K miles on my 95 and limped it all summer long with a leaking water pump, IP w/ hard starting when hot problems, leaking oil cooler lines, and slipping tranny with 280K. One day the harmonic balancer and crank pulley come apart AND I DROVE IT 80 MILES HOME :eek: . The truck is being kept for its faithful service.

ON THE OTHER HAND my 93 has had one thing after another go bad ball joints, wheel bearings, all steering components, A/C, LP, OPS, and the last straw for the truck is the turbo, fly wheel, clutch, and synchros. I love the way the truck is set up but I have only put 10K on the truck :mad2: . I can't throw that much money at a truck that doesnt run long enough to make me money. Fortunately all of the parts I bought will transfer straight to Ol' Blue and that truck put over 300K miles of faithful service on the farm.

In the mean time, I cheated and got a DMax :eek:
 
Mezmorized said:
Our initial intention was to get a motorhome to haul the enclosed trailer and the race car... We were in a bit of a hurry and went with a diesel pick up instead. So before throwing any more money at it and still having hoped we had purchased a motorhome, I will fix it, and sell it (probably with all the stuff I already got for it.), then get a motorhome.
Click to expand...

I wish you the best in your decision.

I have two 6.5 vehicles, and the guys are right - once you understand how a 6.5 works, and the common failure or reliability areas, it is actually pretty simple and inexpensive to keep it running.

For example, when on a family road trip, the boost failed on the turbo. I had some general hand tools on-board, but no diagnostics or gauges. With the help of a mobile WiFi connection and THIS forum's members (Yay team!) I was able to get the old gal running strong again with only $200 worth of parts. In fact, the dealership was completely unable to help me, and I would have been stranded for several days without help. As it was, it was a simple sensor replacement, and even without the simple sensor replacement, I was able to safely wire the wastegate shut and get on down the road.

The point again is that the 6.5 is simple and easy and inexpensive to fix in most cases, and this forum is a great great asset to the vehicle ownership.

Again, best of luck in whatever you choose to do.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 
Ok, I replaced the lift pump, had a heck of a time getting the truck started again but it finally did. However, it was still "missing". I'd rev it up a bit and it would kind of go away but still "missing". I let it idle on it's own for a while, the occasion pop in the exhaust then a puff of black smoke. I got back in the truck and revved it again and the SES light came on and the "miss" stopped. I took down the DTC codes and went for a road test. It was ok for the most part, but when I decided to turn around, I shut the truck off to reset the SES light. Started the truck back up, it was "missing" again, put it in gear and it would stall. I tried starting it again and only a few times it did it fire up but would stall right away.

The DTC's are:

DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 54 - PCM fuel circuit error

I'll bet that's going to point to a PCM now ARGH!!!
 
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