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looks like i have to pull the motor back out

as long as i keep the valve recseses with in spec it sould stay normal i think. the block has been decked like .004 and i am using .010 thincker head gaskets so if any one know how to figure it out id appreciate
 
Went down to my neighbors shop tonight to have a look at the heads with the guy who does all the work on them. put the straight edge to them and shined a light and there seems to be a low spot where it was leaking. its only maybe .003 or .004 i would think the gasket should have takein that up but maybe not.

I was talking to the guy there that dose all the head work and he said that when he worked in a machine shop years ago when ever they had a head come with precups they always surface ground them with the cups in so that the precups stayed flush with the head

he has a guy that he uses for machine work that they cant do and is pretty sure he can surface grind them so i will know more tommorw on how much its ganna cost.
 
All of the heads I've taken off had the pre-cups higher than the surface of the head. I believe it was around .002 that they stuck up. Just enough to catch your fingernail on.
 
ya thats what i noticed as well but the specs that i found did say flush to .002 so i im thinking that it will be ok. it should be cheaper this way since i wont have to have him recut the seats for the cups
 
well turns out that it ganna be $96 per head to have them surface ground. He is checking on a price from another shop but im thinking that it wont be much cheaper if any. So what im thinking is i will pull the heads off the parts engine that i have and have them fluxed and maybe pressure tested and see where that lands me, hopefully they will test fine and i can get this put back together.
 
chevyCowboy said:
yes i did lube the threads on the nut side and yes i used permatex thread sealer on the block side. it is possible that i damaged the gasket i had some difficulty getting them on i think i did that side te wrong way and put it on after i had the studs in. the other side i took the studs back out and reinstalled them after the gasket was on.

how bad would it be to pull the head in the truck. will the studs make it harder?
Click to expand...

You remove the studs and then remove the head, they should be broached on top to make removal cake.

chevyCowboy said:
well turns out that it ganna be $96 per head to have them surface ground. He is checking on a price from another shop but im thinking that it wont be much cheaper if any. So what im thinking is i will pull the heads off the parts engine that i have and have them fluxed and maybe pressure tested and see where that lands me, hopefully they will test fine and i can get this put back together.
Click to expand...

Why would you go thru the hassle of having some more heads redone when yours are done and simply need a resurface?
 
that was kind of what i was wondering but thats what he said

would having this other set of head checked and fluxed be enough or should i have them pressure tested as well?
 
For all you've been doing/spending sofar i wonder if it aint cheaper to get a set of bare aftermarket heads.(just grind and swap the valves,they got precups in them)They're under $200 a piece.At least they where last time i bought them.
 
well its ganna be $35 a piece to have this other set fluxed and pressure tested so im going to go and pull them now and hopefully they can get them check tommorow unless i find an obvious flaw in them.
 
Well i got the tranny all rebuilt yesterday and today i droped the motor and trany in as a single unit today it wasnt exactly an easy job but i think it was a whole lot easier than having to lift that big lug of a trany into place. decided since i was doing so much else i might as well drop the tank and check the sock. well when taking the lines lose they proceded to break:mad2: so now i have to buy a new sending unit. but the motor is back in and all connected and filled with water and no leaks :thumbsup:

hopefully i will be able to fire it up later this week
 
i wish i had some pics of the install but when i got to where the truck is at i found out that my camera was dead. I wouldnt try it unless you have a realy stout hoist and a good load leveler (the one i had wasnt that great). and just to make life easy and since i have lifted this truck 3in. i decided that i would pull the front tires off and set it down on a piece of 2x6 under the lower ball joint. made life much easier
 
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