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looks like i have to pull the motor back out

I'd pull it back out. Way too easy to not get it clean enough before reassembly. Much much easier to see what you're doing on a stand.
 
Well i got the motor pulled out and the head pulled off. the head gasket looks fine no damage. i used a big framing square (straightest thing i had) to try and see if there is a low spot and it looks like there maybe a low spot right where it was leaking, i held the straight edge against the head surface and shined a light on the back side and could see light. need to get a more precision straight edge to know for sure.
 
at this point i have a couple options

i could take these heads to a machine shop and see if they can true them up, not to pricey hope fully, these heads had a valve job done on them but with the head not being flat it makes me wonder how good of a job was done on the rest.

or i have another set that i can pull off of a parts motor and see if they are ok, these would need machine work done aswell

also i have the old heads off of the original motor they did not use any coolant but the heads do have cracks between the valves. this option is a gamble it could go either way. i have heard of instances where heads where put back on with cracks btwn the valves and they are still running.

and the last option that i have is to buy a set of Clearwater heads and be done with it. this is the most expensive option but it may be the best course of action to not have any more problems in the future
 
decisions,,, decision,,,decision,,, I'd go the way,, that I thought would give me the least amount of grief in the future. Sucks,, yeah but I KNOW you don't want to have to pull that bastard again!
 
ak diesel driver said:
So it isn't real clear to me. It's the head that has the low spot? Have you checked the block?
Click to expand...

Just what I was thinking.
Summit racing sells a precession straight edge for around $75. Add a set of feeler gauges and then you won't ever have to trust someone else's work. You'll be able to check it.
 
bk95td said:
Just what I was thinking.
Summit racing sells a precession straight edge for around $75. Add a set of feeler gauges and then you won't ever have to trust someone else's work. You'll be able to check it.
Click to expand...
Exactly.

some machine shops will resurface heads and blocks, needed or not,how does one not in the know tell.....its money eh...
 
sorry guys me and the gf decided to go campin sat night just got home, had some vacation time to use up before the end of the year. i checked the block as best i could in the same way i checked the head (framing square and flash light) didnt see any light there.
 
Grab your other used heads, check for cracks, and see if they seal up. I have not machined heads yet. No time or $$ to do so. So far been lucky. But I would go for other used heads before I machined any in need of it badly...
 
well a new development my neighbor ownes a mechanics shop and they have the mill to resurface heads and he will do both of them for $25 a piece. it seems to me that i should do both of them to keep things the same on both sides, so i am going to pull the pass side head off and have them surface both of them to keep things even.

i cant remember but what is the max that the precups can stick out past the head surface?

if they end up sticking out to far after the heads have been surfaced he has a guy that he can send them to to have the seats cut
 
IMO a guy should use a surface grinder for these heads,that way the precups can stay in place and the surface comes out smoother than cutting with a rotary cutter
 
If you believe the gm service manual , It says not to resurface. Replace
I remember reading somewhere that they had to be surface ground because a milled finish wasn't smooth enough to seal properly.
 
bk95td said:
If you believe the gm service manual , It says not to resurface. Replace
I remember reading somewhere that they had to be surface ground because a milled finish wasn't smooth enough to seal properly.
Click to expand...

if thats the case then my block neededs to be resurfaced as well beacouse the decks where cut with a rotory cutter.
 
it comes down to this. When i was doing the inital rebuild i spend the money to have the machinest do a valve job on these heads and supposedly check them for flatness. well that didnt turn out so well.

from what i read in the link that you posted the the heads can be resurfaced as long as the pre cups are out and a valve recese of .034-.048 is maintained also the precups should be any where from flush to .002 and they also mentioned that the "Word on the street is you can even get away with .003" above the deck, which is certainly preferred over flush."

i think i will take these heads to my neighbors shop and see what his head guys says at the most it could cost me $100 but more likely $50 so i think its a gamble im goin to take.

if they turn up bad i will try the last set of used heads that i have and from there i will get some new ones. might as well try and use the parts that i alread have first.
 
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