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Long, slow build of my truck

It would go faster without the parking brake on. [emoji38] [emoji41] trucks pretty quick. I think mine would blow up if I did that.
 
Haha thanks. Parking brake hasn't worked in 2 years. Needs a cable. The pedal hangs down just enough to trigger the light. Keeping the truck DS4 for now. I'm not sure what I would do for a trans if I swapped to a db2. Either a manual valve body 4l80 or an NV4500


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Update...
Got the Kojo ECM and put it in the truck today. Initial impressions... not in love with it. The truck is overall slower than with the Heath ECM, shifts are not as firm, truck does not seem to pull as hard. EGT's are lower, have to lay into it for awhile to see 1200, otherwise its 1000-1100. Boost is fairly consistent with the Heath ECM at 14-15 peak. I can tell it is using fuel as the pressure will drop right down to 3psi at WOT. Based on the success others have had with Kojo's tuning, I am a little surprised and disappointed. But not to worry, I will be working with Kojo to see where improvements can be made, after all this is a learning process for me and I am fortunate to have the Heath ECM to run in the meantime. Perhaps the Heath tune makes the truck as fast as it is ever gonna be, but Kojo is the man for the ATT so I wanna give him a good crack at it.

Here is a 0-90 video. 0-60 takes 13 seconds by my count, as opposed to 11 with the Heath ECM, and acceleration seems to drop off on the top end. I run a big air filter and a full exhaust so I don't think the turbo is starving for air. I still need to do the feed the beast and Raptor install, but I hope I can get more out of this tune with some tweaking.
 
I'd suggest double checking with KOJO to make sure that they took into account all of your mods when designing the tune. My new tune netted similar results the first time because everything was thrown off by me having a 3 bar MAP sensor, and the tune was calibrated for a 2 bar. Sometimes little things like that get overlooked, but can make a huge difference in performance
 
I still have my original MAP sensor. There are some other things that I would like changed about the tune, so I will most likely send it back to Kojo for some tweaks and have it tuned for a 3 bar sensor.


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quadstar87 said:
Not all tuners know the data that needs adjusted...it wasn't an area identified in most of the 'canned' tuning packages that are currently available to dealers who are doing the tuning.
Click to expand...
With the advent of bigger turbos on the 6.2/6.5 td platform the norm is over 2.0 pressure ratio equating in much bigger air and less charge heating which IMO requires a proper pressure sensor a better tune and more fuel up top.

It's 'kind of like' when most tune a blown or turbo gas fueled motor and retard the timing up top when advancing it and adding high pressure (1k) water injection to eliminate detonation will reliably yield much more power....up top....
 
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FellowTraveler said:
With the advent of bigger turbos on the 6.2/6.5 td platform the norm is over 2.0 pressure ratio equating in much bigger air and less charge heating which IMO requires a proper pressure sensor a better tune and more fuel up top.

It's 'kind of like' when most tune a blown or turbo gas fueled motor and retard the timing up top when advancing it and adding high pressure (1k) water injection to eliminate detonation will reliably yield much more power....up top....
Click to expand...

That's fine in theory but the firmware doesn't know what to do with a different MAP sensor so it's a waste of money. The fuel curve 'is what it is' and the firmware is setup to use subtract from that based on low kPA readings....nowhere does it ADD fuel for more boost.

There's a re-written OBD-I firmware that changes this but I haven't seen anyone running it. Let's start a new thread to keep Nick on track if we can bounce more data back and forth to support this topic.
 
quadstar87 said:
That's fine in theory but the firmware doesn't know what to do with a different MAP sensor so it's a waste of money. The fuel curve 'is what it is' and the firmware is setup to use subtract from that based on low kPA readings....nowhere does it ADD fuel for more boost.

There's a re-written OBD-I firmware that changes this but I haven't seen anyone running it. Let's start a new thread to keep Nick on track if we can bounce more data back and forth to support this topic.
Click to expand...

Now I wonder if some type of piggyback fueling would help or if it could actually be done on the IDI and made to work @ WOT w/boost reference?
 
No. Waste of time. Been there done that. Pressure control is the key. Get ahold of @greenmeanh1 and convince him to build you his electronic control unit. That dude needs to market it. NOT SO SUBTLE HINT HINT ya electronic crazy Canadian you. Market it through Leroy maybe?

I've seen nothing like it for sale anywhere, but it makes perfect sense - electric motor speed for control. Don't see why it wouldn't work with all different LPs extending life and maximizing setting output.
 
I can FINALLY post an update to this thread haha.

Out of necessity, the Raptor 100 that had been sitting for a couple months waiting to be installed went in. The old FRC10 was beginning to cut out intermittently and after too many miles driven on 0psi I decided it was time for the new pump.

When I get a weekend, I'll do the whole shebang but for tonight it was a matter of getting the truck pumping fuel again. The truck already had Leroy's bypass fittings with 3/8" hose, and the Raptor takes 1/2" hose with special straight-thread fittings. I got 1/2"x3/8" male/male barbs from the local Parker store, and 2x90* elbow adapters. I used the 90's to make a 180 as the Raptor is mounted rearward of where the FRC10 was. So it's a little convoluted, but the feed to the pump from the tank has to snake back via the 180 to the pump, then the high pressure side of the pump is a straight shot to the fuel line running up to the FFM. It's kind of a cluster but it's clean considering the circumstances. I hope to do the full install with all 1/2" hose and the sump relatively soon.

For performance, it is currently set to 13psi at idle. On a WOT run 40-80mph I could not get it below 9.5 or so.

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Took the truck from central CT to northeast PA on Sunday, and it ran warm. 205-210 most of the day, doing 65-70 with the AC on. So yesterday I ordered Heath's cooling upgrade kit. Should have that on within the next couple weeks as well as my new radiator. Also have some stuff in the works for the forced induction aspect of the truck.
 
It'd be interesting to see if you only needed to replace/clean the Rad and cooling stack. Shouldn't have many issues cruising unloaded with a '96 cooling system.

Sneak a bottle or 2 of Redline watter wetter in with your new mix. It's one of the only automotive additives I ever suggest.
 
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