pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Look forward to seeing that intercooler install, Hugh. Where in PA is the show?
Watsontown. Central-ish
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Look forward to seeing that intercooler install, Hugh. Where in PA is the show?
So a couple months ago I ordered a Heath cooling upgrade kit. I know I can build it myself for less blah blah blah.. anyways. I had debated putting it on my current engine because I have gotten this one up to 230 before, and I didn't want to use $750+ of parts on a beat engine. Well it looks like that's whats happening lol. Just got notice from work today that my vacation time in April to attend a tractor show in PA was approved. Guess when it was that I hit 230? On the way home from said tractor show, so in order to not let history repeat itself, its time to install the cooling upgrades.
My plan is to install the kit, which consists of H.O. water pump, 195 t-stats, 21" fan, and HD fan clutch, as well as the new radiator I picked up a little over a year ago. It is a Silla brand rad., I will be interested to see how it performs. I will also be replacing the rad hoses, and coolant overflow tank and cap. Basically all new parts in the cooling department.
In addition to that, I will be seeing what I can do with the 94-02 Dodge intercooler I picked up awhile back. A guy the next town over from me has a 97 CCLB with a 12v/NV4500 swap, and he runs an identical intercooler with the 6.5 rad. So it can definitely be done. But It will be interesting to see what mods are needed. I have some ideas already, but any input is appreciated.
Stay tuned, the old goat is gonna get some unexpected love.
I had to use a Ram Cummins radiator with the Cummins CAC/IC, I suspect the GM radiator he used is smaller than what was on my Burb.
I could force my 6.5 radiator between the CAC/IC but I suspect the composite tanks will prematurely fail.He says it's a 6.5 radiator, we will see
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I don't know about how long you can run that wheel, but I have heard that Turbo Lab of America (they're the ones that sell that wheel) has good support. So you may want to give them a call and see what you find out.Checking over the truck today as it is scheduled to drive 4.5hrs across PA in a few weeks and I see this:
So I am now looking at turbo wheels. I can't remember if it's a 60x83 or 60x86 but in talking with Nate, I have found what looks to be a good billet drop-in:
I figured it would be smart to rebuild the turbo as well, since I've put about 10k miles on it, and it got about 60k on my friends Dodge before I bought it. I have been under the impression that it's a hybrid built from a 16cm non-gated H1C and of course the HX40 cold side. Rebuild kits are cheap, but an HX40 kit is not compatible with an H1C. What am I to do? Can I safely run this wheel for say 3,000 miles before tearing into it?
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Whatcha doing?
Time for some cooling upgrades
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And a bath wouldn't hurt any....
How'd the battery relocation go?
Spent some good time wrenching on the truck today with my buddy kyle that's been helping along the way. Today we got the new water pump on, new tstats in, new radiator hoses in, check valve for the injection pump, 2/0 battery cables on, deleted the vacuum pump, and relocated the passenger side battery. Tomorrow we gotta put the fan on, new 100" serp belt, and then of course the radiator. Fun fun. We have been building a diesel tractor for awhile, so it was a nice change of pace to wrench on the truck.
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How'd the battery relocation go?
Nice. Sometimes all you need is a BFH.Cut out the battery tray, used the 3lb persuader to flatten the fender a little. Fits good haha.
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1 of the 2. Air or stuck stat.
Just running water I would yank the stat and try running without it just to see you can purge the air.
While stat is out, test it on the wife stove in her favorite pot. Use her candy cooking thermometer to verify when it opens. Hide the cast iron skillets before you start so she doesn't test the ring quality off the back of your head...