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Killing a 6.5 Truck For Parts

I want to publicly thank bk95td for seeing and shipping a part that I was desperately needing. He shipped it out the part out as soon as he received notice that the money was in paypal. I was able to get back to work, now, on my normal schedule and once again enjoying my truck. If anyone needs any parts, I would not hesitate to recommend him.

Thank you bk95td for all of your assistance.
 
91 K2500HD Bites the Dust

I've been on a junking spree but not with trucks. I junked out 3 welder generators and cleaned up some junk in the back fence line. Finally got the 91 I bought for the engine in the shop. It had been sitting for 4 months. It fired right up when I started it to bring it in the shop. Very nice running engine.
The engine in this 91 is a 2005 GEP optimiser sold as a Goodwrench replacement engine. :D It is supposed to only have 25,000 miles or less:yikes:
It has a SM465 4 speed manual tranny and a semi-floating:???::WTF: 14 bolt 4.10 rear axle. It is a 8600 gvw truck.
It has decent tread 265/16 load "E" tires.
The PO told me the batterys and alternator were brand new less than 6 months ago:thumbsup:
I had to pay a whole $1000 for the truck. Many useable parts for my fleet.
Since the manual tranny trucks are a pia to pull the engine out of I'm going to lift the box and cab off the truck before pulling the engine and tranny/transfercase:eek:
 

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Just curious, what color is the OPS? Does it have a square filter FFM? Thanks Bk95td.

I haven't taken the air filter off yet to be able to see the FFM and OPS.I'm pretty shure it has the square can FFM.
 
Curious because I would like to take a FFM apart and see if I could rig the heater to work all the time. Also my OPS is gray metal and the guy at NAPA cant get one like it.
 
The new ops appear to be mostly plastic.I just looked on rockauto.
 
....................Finally got the 91 I bought for the engine in the shop................................

looking at those pics, all i can say is, WOW. was this an old man who listened to his shop mechanic(stealership?) and believed everything he said? i see a lot of dirt, (was he a farmer?) and some homemade fab work on a truck that is almost 20 years old and he spent money on an Optimizer! and it's an N/A at that. WOW. you made the buy of the week with that, sweet.
 
imadtchmn I agrree with u Barry is great to deal with as a knowledgeable and dependable businessman. I asked about some parts and bought two thngs from him and I got both in great shape and he threw in a hood release cable!!!! The man rocks!!!!
 
looking at those pics, all i can say is, WOW. was this an old man who listened to his shop mechanic(stealership?) and believed everything he said? i see a lot of dirt, (was he a farmer?) and some homemade fab work on a truck that is almost 20 years old and he spent money on an Optimizer! and it's an N/A at that. WOW. you made the buy of the week with that, sweet.

I wondered if any one would notice the fan shroud modification. It has a tall 6.5 radiator in it. The stock 6.2 radiators were a couple inches shorter.
You guessed right.It was bought from a [somewhat] retired farmer. He had bought it from his son. It was blown up and he had heard bad things about rebuilt 6.2s and 6.5s so he took it to the stealer and had them put a new engine in. I'm thinking it was a long block with no tin because it has the GM valve covers. There is no GM cast in the block and it was put in in 2005 so that would make it a GEP engine.It cost him $6500 for the engine 6 years ago. The reason he sold it was that the throw-out bearing is squealing and he didn't want to go through the tranny also and it was getting rusty. Weird thing is that there is no rust on the doors. I could not pass it up for the price. I was in the right place at the right time.
 
Getting The Body Out Of The Way

I started today on getting the box off. Much to my dismay the 91s didn't have a access hole in the front leaf spring hanger for getting a 1/2 drive extension through as the newer models do:mad2::mad2: Of coarse those 2 bolts were very stuck. I worked on those 2 bolts for 1/2 hour. I ended up having to cut the heads off with the torch. I could get the impact on the other 6.They didn't come out all that easy either. I should have washed the whole underside of this truck before I unloaded it off the trailer. I got a dirt bath every time I pulled the trigger on the impact:nonod: I didn't even try to take the rear bumper bolts out. As long as the torch was out i whacked them. Got the fuel filler neck loose and wired out of the way.After I lifted the box off I removed the fender flares.Much easier to do with the box tipped up :thumbsup: This box is too rusty to keep so I took the tail light harness out also. Off to the scrap pile with it:hello:
The front fenders and inner fenders were next. A couple of the inner fender bolts stripped out so I took the inner and outer off together. A couple of the lower bolts stripped so I cut the heads off with a 4 1/2" grinder.
Doors and interior tomorrow.

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Doors,Dash and Wiring

The doors were the first thing off today.Passenger side went good.Knock off the retainers on the pins and knock the pins out. Driver's side was not so easy. It seems the PO didn't know that you can buy new pins and bushings. He has raised the pins and welded them in place:WTF::mad2::mad2:
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I had to cut each pin twice with a sawsall.
This truck had the scottsdale interior. The door panels are completely different from silverado door.The storage pockets are bigger and the arm rest has 2 screws in it verses 1 in the silverado.
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I mentioned earlier that these doors are rust free. The drivers door has a bolt in the hinge which means it's a replacement door. Factory doors don't have bolts. Only glue.
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Removing the steering column was next.This truck didn't have tilt. Unplugged everything on the bottom and sides. Then removed the steering shaft from the steering box and column. 4 bolts in the firewall and 2 nuts on the dash frame and it dropped down . Disconnected the rest of the wiring and pulled it out.
Taking the dash out
Looking back, I should have disconnected all the chassis wiring from the convenience center before I went any further. I disconnected the firewall main connector and interior half loose from the firewall. Then took the center brace out and lower bolts on the outsides . The speaker covers have to come off both sides for access to the top screws. Then the center screws and tip it down onto the seat.

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A couple connectors in the center and the a/c control and the and a bunch of switches and connectors on the driver's side and the whole dash comes out.
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Next I took the clutch master cylinder and pedal assembly out. This has a better master and line than the 93s have:???:
All the engine wiring except the starter disconnected. Called it a day. Next is brake master/hydroboost and e-brake. Then I'm going to try to remove the windshield to save it:nonod: Heater/a/c has to come out yet also before removing the cab.
 
i was told by a glass guy that it is nearly impossible to remove and save a windshield

The junkyards do it all the time. I think it's mostly in having the right tool and knowing how to use it. Some of the removal tools are over $600. I've gotten very close on other attempts.
 
I liked my old 89 scottsdale. I think I will get scottsdale pannels for Ol'Blue when it come time to get it restored. The old ones are faded and cracked.
 
I liked my old 89 scottsdale. I think I will get scottsdale pannels for Ol'Blue when it come time to get it restored. The old ones are faded and cracked.

The door panels on this one are faded but not broke. My 95 2500Ld has the Cheyenne interior. it has no door pockets. I hate it.
 
The door panels on this one are faded but not broke. My 95 2500Ld has the Cheyenne interior. it has no door pockets. I hate it.

Same with Ol' Blue, its a cheyenne. My 93 is a SLE and 95's are Siverado's. IDK if scottsdale came in blue, I think I will have to shop LMC.
 
Windshield flop, Interior stripped, and cab removed

:(:( I was soooooooo close to having the windshield out. 2 very little strands of glue to trim and it cracked in 2 places:eek::mad2::shiiiiiite: Maybe I will succeed next time:nonod:
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I got the rest of the cab stripped of what I'm keeping. Hydra boost,master cyl, throttle cable[no longer available new] heater-a/c box,brake pedal
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Fan and clutch, lower fan shroud, radiator, a/c condenser,power steering cooler and headlight wiring were next. The engine oil cooler came out without twisting a line off:yikes:
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Core support, power steering pump and a/c compressor. Then cab mount bolts
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Throw some wheels and tires back on and out the door for cab removal.
Cab came off without a hitch:thumbsup: No missed wires or cables.
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I spent a couple hours washing most of the sand and crud off everything:nonod:
Clean pics next time
 
i have never attempted to remove a windshield. do you cut around the glue then put a wire between and 'saw' it off?
 
I cut it mostly with a razor knife. The rest was with a handle that I have the uses sawzall blades. I bought some of the braided piano wire. Didn't work, even after cutting with the razor knife. This was the closest I've gotten to getting one out unbroken. If I would have had help , it wouldn't have broke. A heated cutting tool would work well.
 
On to the fun stuff

Since the shop was full of parts, I had to tag and stack them all on a pallet and take to the barn/parts storage. Got the floor swept up and ready for the next round.
Got a couple pics of the cleaner chassis. Stll plenty of dirt and grime but much better:agreed:
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Got it pushrd back up into the shop and started in again. The exhaust was the first to go.I sawed the muffler off and took the nuts off the manifold studs. All came off easy.:thumbsup: The driveshafts were next. No problems On to the fuel tank. In had presoaked the fuel line connections and tank strap bolts with PB Blaster. All the fuel line connections came apart without breaking anything:eek::WTF:
I noticed the fuel tank lookrd caved in like the last truck I junked.This showed 1/2 tank on the gauge.I got 12 gallons out of it with the fuel pump. I have a harness I made with the correct connector for the lift pump and alligator clips to attach to a battery. I was thinking there should have been more fuel pump out than that. I was right. When I took the strap bolts loose there was 5 gallons or more in the tank yet.I got the floor jack under it before I took it all the way loose:thumbsup: I lowered it to the floor and slid it out from under the frame.
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I took the exhaust manifolds off both sides to get access to the oil cooler lines and starter wiring. The starter had been replaced without the front brace:yikes::yikes:
It must have broken on the old starter because the top half was still bolted to the block. The GM starter braces are junk. This is the 5th broken one I've seen. Luckily the block survived running with out it. :nonod:
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With everything removed it was time for the tranny mount and motor mount bolts and hook on with the hoist.
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Once out on the floor I dropped the transfer case off and drained the tranny onto the floor at the same time:mad2::mad2:
Next I dropped the tranny onto a cart. Then took the pressure plate off the flywheel. The flywheel and pressure plate looked good and a bit of disc left too. I did find why the throw-out bearing sounded so bad. There was no rollers to be found and the cage was laying in the bottom all twisted up.

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More tomorrow
 
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