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I've decided to do a Cummin's conversion

THEFERMANATOR said:
Every 4x4 retaining the ifs with a 12 valve swap I have seen or heard of required moving the torsion bar cross member. Don't think theres any avoiding it. It's not a huge deal, and is a good excuse to replace the bushings on the cross member(it's a FUN job to do with the trans and stuff in place, but a walk in the park with it and the crossmember out.
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I guess that is what I'll do then, I have the next to the highest rated GMT400 t-bars (8.6k +) (8,782 lbs rated) do you think I need the highest rated t-bars, or?
 
Your going to spend a wad of cash on the swap, I would be tempted to keep the ones you have, if not rally needed. Then after running it a while you can swap them for the next size up if you have to.

Does anyone make aftermarket ones that are even stronger (better in any way) than the highest rated ones?

How do they affect the ride if swapped in an otherwise stock truck if swapped in?
 
Will L. said:
Your going to spend a wad of cash on the swap, I would be tempted to keep the ones you have, if not rally needed. Then after running it a while you can swap them for the next size up if you have to.

Does anyone make aftermarket ones that are even stronger (better in any way) than the highest rated ones?

How do they affect the ride if swapped in an otherwise stock truck if swapped in?
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I was just wondering my factory t-bars are up to the task of the heavier 12 valve since I also have a bumper with brush guard and heavy hydro winch and a wench in the passenger seat.
 
smokymtn65 said:
Speaking of such things, Missing a couple cylinders.. but
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/5790365112.html
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That is an example of how NOT to do one. Thin single row 350 radiator, single small electric fan, hot air intake sucking in super heated air, radiator hose just flopping around right over the belt, left the compressor mounted low(they known to hit the frame under power if you do), and just alot of little details making it look thr.own together.

FellowTraveler said:
That is a very extreme angle fore and aft of that 4 banger so if drive angles are not right it would be a real shaker, rattler roller......
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Thats what happens when you just slap one in. The 545 is setup with 4 top mounts to be put in a bus, you would need to cut them off to make one fot better. My guess is he just slapped it in there. Not to mention the 545 isn't a good choice for this rig as it wants to keep the rpm's above 2k all the time. Wondering how he kept it 4x4 with the 545 allison as theres no adapters that I've heard of. Only way would be divorced mount, and that would make for some other issues.
 
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FellowTraveler said:
I was just wondering my factory t-bars are up to the task of the heavier 12 valve since I also have a bumper with brush guard and heavy hydro winch and a wench in the passenger seat.
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You're going to be adding in the 500-600 pound range of weight right out in front. Thats going to be HARD on your torsion bars regardless. Problem to swapping torsion bars is finding them. You would need to find a 3500 dually with a 454 and snow plow prep package to find the stiffer bars I believe.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
You're going to be adding in the 500-600 pound range of weight right out in front. Thats going to be HARD on your torsion bars regardless. Problem to swapping torsion bars is finding them. You would need to find a 3500 dually with a 454 and snow plow prep package to find the stiffer bars I believe.
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As always 'thanks' FERM...
 
FellowTraveler said:
Anyone know if I can use the tack signal for one of the GM gen/alts I'm using to trans controller?
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When I did my mechanical conversion I asked US Shift tech support when I was exploring options. As I recall, I *think* it was going to be possible, but then it was determined that the existing crank sensor was going to be easy to use so that's the direction I went. I would contact tech support for whichever controller you plan to use and ask that question. I can't recall, have you decided which controller you're using?
 
n8in8or said:
When I did my mechanical conversion I asked US Shift tech support when I was exploring options. As I recall, I *think* it was going to be possible, but then it was determined that the existing crank sensor was going to be easy to use so that's the direction I went. I would contact tech support for whichever controller you plan to use and ask that question. I can't recall, have you decided which controller you're using?
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It will be the Quick 4...I was hoping on the GM gen/alt-tach/rpm signal it would be easy then. I'll inquire, Thanks.
 
Like said above, I think you can use the alternator signal as it's just a 15v ac voltage spike. Only issue would be is the number of pulses and if the quick 4would work with that many. If your cummins came out of a dodge, just use the hall effect crank sensor that dodge used for there tach.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Like said above, I think you can use the alternator signal as it's just a 15v ac voltage spike. Only issue would be is the number of pulses and if the quick 4would work with that many. If your cummins came out of a dodge, just use the hall effect crank sensor that dodge used for there tach.
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Yep, it's from a dodge thanks....
 
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