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It all began with the failure of the AUX fuel tank!

It is giving you valid codes and descriptions-you got a good 1.

First code-check wiring and perhaps change out the coolant sensor in the water crossover manifold at the frt of the engine with AC Delco part only.

Second code-get a boost gauge connected and verify that the code is describing a boost problem and diagnose it.
 
Can you tell me if I'm interpreting this correctly? This truck had a used motor installed last year. It ran great for a year! One thing though, the temp gauge barely moves off cold. Even in hot weather. In cold weather the heater never really puts-out hot air. It acts as if it has no thermostat installed. Did I read that it has TWO thermostats? I read where my problem is 95% surely a PMD if certain codes don't show up. That's why I invested in a reader, and they didn't. I got a good reader ($150 one) I mean as opposed to a $20 one. It's a CEN-TECH CAN OBD2 Reader / EOBD Scanner. I followed the instruction book but I really don't know how to use it. I didn't RUN the truck, I merely turned on the ignition and read the existing codes.
 
Ok with that new info it does sound like bad or no thermostats,yes it should have 2 t stats if the replacement engine took the same upper rad hose as the original-replace with AC Delco ONLY.

Can't comment on the PMD but would wonder if you have a failing ignition switch-no blower motor means no power flow,the ignition switches are multi contact switches and can and do fail causing stalling/no start sometimes.

To check you could rig a simple light wired into the fuel shut off solenoid circuit to somewhere in the cab-if the light goes out when it quits-then it's a power problem,if not more diagnosis is needed.
 
I have attached some photos of my eng compartment. This is how elementary we are getting here. I don't even know how to identify these components. In my defense, let me say, I just paid $407 incl. shipping for a remote PMD/FSD kit from Flash Off-Road. I read that since I don't get certain codes, it's 95% certainty that it's my PMD overheating. If you couple that cost with the $900 GM wants for a new aux tank and another $575 for a new sender unit, I'm almost to $2000 JUST IN PARTS! I'm afraid that if I take it to a garage I'm going to get a call saying, "Your truck's done. The bill is FIVE THOUSAND DOLLARS!" I don't think I'm exagerating here.
I would like to test that Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. How do I go about it?Engine Cmprtment 007.jpgEngine Cmprtment 001.jpgEngine Cmprtment 002.jpgEngine Cmprtment 003.jpgEngine Cmprtment 004.jpgEngine Cmprtment 005.jpgEngine Cmprtment 006.jpg
 
The easy test of the FSO is hold it with your hand while a friend turns the key from off to run-you should feel a firm CLICK.
 
In the future get your PMD here: http://www.leroydiesel.com/Page_2.html

OBE said:
I have attached some photos of my eng compartment. This is how elementary we are getting here. I don't even know how to identify these components. In my defense, let me say, I just paid $407 incl. shipping for a remote PMD/FSD kit from Flash Off-Road. I read that since I don't get certain codes, it's 95% certainty that it's my PMD overheating. If you couple that cost with the $900 GM wants for a new aux tank and another $575 for a new sender unit, I'm almost to $2000 JUST IN PARTS! I'm afraid that if I take it to a garage I'm going to get a call saying, "Your truck's done. The bill is FIVE THOUSAND DOLLARS!" I don't think I'm exagerating here.
I would like to test that Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. How do I go about it?View attachment 37732View attachment 37733View attachment 37734View attachment 37735View attachment 37736View attachment 37737View attachment 37738
Click to expand...
 
^ what Leo said.

IMO, see if you can return that Flash offroad kit.

Leroy's is likely better, and last check, was cheaper.
 
I'm having trouble posting. Am I the only one or is the website having difficulty?

I wanted to state that I should have gottten the part from Leroy, since he was good enough to offer advice to me when I was in a quandry. When I decided to go for it, I just Googled the part and picked the first name on the list. I didn't "shop" the thing at all!

I need some more stuff related to the tank and sender problem and I intend to give the business to those who support this website. Sorry!
 
Well, the new "remote" kit seemed to have solved the problem; at least it stays running. I still have the aux tank issue I want to address (sender lists for $575 at Chevrolet Parts) and the fuel gauge works when I first turn-on the key but then drops to "E" I've read that the gauge works with the lift pump and I have disconnected the pump that draws the fuel from the aux to the main tank so maybe THAT's my problem.

I now know where the IP is and the PMD/FSD and the fuel shutoff solenoid. I also see where the thermostats go and that looks like a job I can handle. I guess I should break-down and buy a Chilton Subscription for this truck!
 
OBE said:
Well, the new "remote" kit seemed to have solved the problem; at least it stays running. I still have the aux tank issue I want to address (sender lists for $575 at Chevrolet Parts) and the fuel gauge works when I first turn-on the key but then drops to "E" I've read that the gauge works with the lift pump and I have disconnected the pump that draws the fuel from the aux to the main tank so maybe THAT's my problem.

I now know where the IP is and the PMD/FSD and the fuel shutoff solenoid. I also see where the thermostats go and that looks like a job I can handle. I guess I should break-down and buy a Chilton Subscription for this truck!
Click to expand...

Had the same problem with my fuel gauge.
If you disconnected the aux tank sending unit you created your own trouble.

The dual tank trucks use a balance module that averages the readings of both sending units and sends that info to the gauge-both sending units MUST be connected and working for the gauge to work.
 
Racer55..."created your own trouble." I have been driving the truck around town all week. I thought my shutting-down problem was over. On Friday I drove it to my nephew's junk yard and we hooked up my 30' lowboy trailer to it and did a local delivery of a 20' van body to a farmer to use as a garage. On the way back the truck shut off. After sitting for about 15 minutes, it started, drove about a mile and shut off again. We limped home this way and finally got it back to the yard and dropped the trailer. As I was looking at the truck I noticed the plug of the aux tank dangling loose (where I left it weeks ago when I disconnected the aux tank out of the circuit) and your words rang in my ears. Just for the hell of it I connected it to the bad sender (which is just sitting in the hole in the tank to keep foreign matter from getting in) ans started the truck. I let the truck idle to see how long it took till it shut off again. A half-hour later the truck was still running!

I took the chance and drove it the 15 miles to my house. I figured if it shuts off the worst I'll do is call AAA and get them to tow it for me. It ran all the way. I wonder if I should just go ahead and buy a new sender and hook eveything back up to run two tanks will my problem be solved?
 
I suspect so.

The alternative is to remove the balance module and run only the frt tank,but it find it's small size a real problem.
My truck only has 2hrs range on the frt tank alone.
 
I fully intend to get that aux tank working again. It's just that I don't want to be forced to buy a sender @ $575 because I'm in a rush. I want to get some advice and maybe a lead on a cheaper way. As for the shutting-down problem, I suppose I still have it and I'm afraid to drive the truck now. I still don't know if my problem is fuel or electrical or electrical/fuel (such as a solenoid) because I was disconnecting devices when I didn't even know what the devices where! I am going to get a Chilton manual for the truck. Where's the cheapest place to get one?
 
You should be able to get an aftermarket spectra sending unit fairly reasonable from a jobber/parts store,just don't use the supplied fuel sock that it comes with.
Put the stock sock back on or remove it completely and install a screen inline before the transfer pump.

As far as manuals go -I would(and have done) buy a GM manual for your truck-look on ebay it usually has them.
 
Will L. said:
Iirc it's Leroy who sells a rod style aftermarket good one back to post 26 Leroy's
Click to expand...

If I am not mistaken Leroy sells the metrum fuel rod float/resistor kit,I think it has to be fastened to a stock sending unit and only replaces the float and variable resistor for the gauge.
 
55...I will look for a GM Manual on eBay.
I do need the entire sender assm. because my tubing is all perforated and rusty. I'll talk further with you on that "sock" issue.
I'll talk to leroy because I do want to patronize the guys who support this website.

I am getting two DTCs: P0126 "Insufficient coolant temperature for stable operation" and I am doing the following: I noticed that the rad cap looks like it's not for this truck and someone forced it on. I had to use channelocks to get it off. I just bought a new one at Advance A/P nearby, and put it on. They didn't have AC/Delco thermostats (which I've been cautioned by friends on here to use ONLY) so I'll try elsewhere. I suspect that this motor has NONE because, in the full year that I've been driving it with this new motor, the temp gauge barely moves off of the COLD side.
The other code is: P0236 "Turbocharger boost sensor A circuit range / performance" I don't know where that sensor is since I do not have a manual yet.

As-of the moment, the truck is starting and stays running. I just drove it down the highway to the parts store. The only change I've done since it shut-down last Saturday is that I have re-connected those plugs at the aux tank sensor and the device with tubing running thru it that is mounted along the frame. I thought that to disconnect these two plugs after I had re-routed the hoses at the front tank wouldn't make any difference. It didn't seem to, at first, but then the truck began to shut-down intermittantly.

More on my PMD in my next reply:
 
I noticed that the new PMD/FSD behaves like this: The heat sync is mounted on the fender-well, in the area just behind the left battery. The fender is warm/cool and the FSD is about the same. The heat-sync, however, is hot! I guess it's doing its job. Dissipating the heat generated by the FSD.

Where did my pictures go???
 
I would agree that you dont have a thermostat installed.

rockauto.com is where I get my AC delco parts without the dealer price.

what year is the truck?
 
It's a 2000 Chevy C/K3500 4X4 Automatic
We did put a junkyard motor in it a year ago. The motor is great but I really have to find out how to ID it to be certain what year it is. It was in our yard for so long I forget what we took it out-of.
I drove it for a year, pulling heavy trailer loads, and it worked great. Until that doggone aux tank sender quit and I ran the main tank out of fuel. That's when all my trouble began.
You can see photos if you go to my Profile and open my Albums.
 
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