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Is there a magic fuel or oil additive?

J

jrsavoie

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Is there a magic fuel or oil additive?

I got hosed on the Toro 220D we recently purchased. - the hydrostat trans on the 223D needs rebuilt. Trans model # 90-1274. Any ideas on getting the hydrostat rebuilt? A replacement is over $4,000.

Paid $1,100 and wasted a day for the Toro 220D with 20hp Mitsubishi L3C.

Do you know of any miracle diesel engine additive?

Got hosed on the Toro we bought to get by. The prick said all fluids and filters were changed.

The visible filters were new

I saw a couple things that set me off and checked the deck gear box.
It just had a little of the nastiest looking oil I've ever seen. Obviously he lied.

I checked the air filter and it had a hole rotted in it. And the filter canister had a lot of rust.

When I bought it, it was starting and running good.
Now it's not starting as fast. It no longer starts at the hit of the key. Maybe 5 seconds cranking time.
I am attributing that to having sucked very dirty air.

I ran in about 4 hours with the filter situation. No telling how much it was run before I bought it.

It's a run it until it drops or until we are done with it situation.

Are there any additives that may help extend it's life expectancy?

I guess I'd better up my prepurchase inspection game.

There was a 223D that we could have bought - 2 hours further from home and $300 more. Might have been a bargain comparatively speaking.
I've already got at least 2 hours and some materials into this one.
I still have to change the hydro fluid and engine oil.
 
I have a huge disliking for thief, cheat, lying robbers.
Drive back to their place and let them know about it. If it was a dealer then return it, claiming lemon law.
I once used that against a dealer over here, for a GF that bought this POS S10 pickup with a 2.8 V6. Within a few days, rods was knocking. She called the dealer, He told her tough 💩. I called a lawyer, explained the situation, he asked who the dealer was, told Him, he said he could not represent me as that guy had him on a retainer.
I was getting ready to call another lawyer and the dealer calls, tells me to take the truck to the shop of our choice, he would pay. I told him this engine will need to be dismantled and totally scrubbed. He said get it done.
 
jrsavoie said:
When I bought it, it was starting and running good.
Now it's not starting as fast. It no longer starts at the hit of the key. Maybe 5 seconds cranking time.
I am attributing that to having sucked very dirty air.

I ran in about 4 hours with the filter situation. No telling how much it was run before I bought it.

It's a run it until it drops or until we are done with it situation.

Are there any additives that may help extend it's life expectancy?
Click to expand...

Lots of J U N K for sale due to the inability to get things new and prices increases of new. Don't feel bad.

Bad air filters simply "dust the rings". Change the engine oil and filter, Now. Get the dirt out. The dust now embedded in the rings will only get removed when the rings are replaced as part of an overhaul.

Do a compression test to feel better. Maybe even a leakdown test in case some grit is on a valve seat. Waste of time IMO though.

I would actually look for an air leak in the Fuel System for long crank times. This is assuming the battery and starter are spinning the engine fast enough: aka troubleshoot the problem without assumptions.

The air filter simply indicate ignorant and/or bad maintenance. Most people don't know air filters age out at 1-2 years: They start falling apart after that age. It's a clue, but, not likely the cause unless you have low compression.
 
Since this was just to get us by until we got the hydrostat on the 223D repaired, we will add Rislone and run it.
I plan on changing the Fluids today and the lift pump filter.
Hopefully it makes the rest of the season.
I wish I would have checked back in while I was in town yesterday. I was at 3 parts stores and could have picked up the Rislone.

Now, I don't know what to do with this machine when we are done with it. It'll take up space. It only has a 62" deck.

He also apparently lost the piece with the hole and lock bolt that holds the throttle cable to the lever. He bent the cable in a U and clamped it, making the cable too short. The machine is only running at half throttle.
I knew that needed to be fixed and it should have been a clue to check things over better.

It either needs a thermostat or the temp gauge isn't working properly.

I am now looking at another 223D for $500. Another project I don't need.
The guy said he put to big a battery in and something bumped and shorted out.
If I can't get it running, - if the wiring is too torched. I can always use the hydrostat in my current 223D - if he didn't trash the hydrostat by dragging it around.
The John Deere we had, had 2 speed with neutral.
It annoys me that Toro doesn't have a neutral. It's only been an issue about 3 times. But a pia every time.
There are 2 buttons on the hydrostat that need to be pushed and held to release it.
I have yet to figure an easy way. I've used a piece of angle and tie wraps.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Just been watching this thread for fun.. but question.. I usually uses Lucas stop leak in my oil changes . Actually I put a bottle or 2 of that and a bottle of regular Lucas oil treatment. (Or vise versa) and then 4/5 quarts of Rotel 15/40. Seems to work good . But is that stuff a better option for older engines? I was always told anything that actually cleans the inside of engine is bad because it can unclog leaks that were plugged by the gunk...
Just asking cause always curious about better products
 
220D
I drained the oil.
Removed the filter. No oil came out of the filter. No oil came out when I set the filter in the drain pan, hole side down.
I never saw such a thing before.

I can't believe it would mow for about 4 hours without oil pressure or circulation and not exhibit major engine failure.

Napa Gold 1334 filter

I am going to remove the filter I installed and crank the engine.

It appears the front crank seal is leaking, but not bad enough to mess with now
 
jrsavoie said:
220D
I drained the oil.
Removed the filter. No oil came out of the filter. No oil came out when I set the filter in the drain pan, hole side down.
I never saw such a thing before.

I can't believe it would mow for about 4 hours without oil pressure or circulation and not exhibit major engine failure.

Napa Gold 1334 filter

I am going to remove the filter I installed and crank the engine.

It appears the front crank seal is leaking, but not bad enough to mess with now
Click to expand...
It was the filter. When I cranked with no filter there was plenty of oil there.
I never heard of such a thing before and still don't understand it.
 

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jrsavoie said:
The filter looked exceptionally clean.

I am guessing stuck bypass valve.

I never looked it over.

It's like the clean oil got there, but never got into the filter.

I thought it was odd when I loosened the filter and there was no black goo running down the side of the block.
Click to expand...
When I cranked it over without a filter plenty of oil was going to the filter .

Going to losen this filter up and see what happens.
 
Here is some stuff that might help, after using the rislone to get the rings, etc, loosened back up and maybe some scuffing on pistons and cylinder walls sort of filled in a little.

If You try this stuff, do it after the other engine treatments.
This moly lube builds platelets onto surfaces.
If it will help Your engine I dont know. I dump a can to every oil change on my truck and it had not harmed it. 🤷‍♂️😹😹😹
 
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