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International Diesel in NY quesiton

Justin just an idea..... But if you end up pullin the engine out of the 97 to kill the squirters maybe throw it back in the 94 instead of the 97. just a thought if it comes to that.
 
DEERE3594 said:
I never take anything to a mechanic, but after years and years of bad luck and dollar after dollar Im sure going back to an old TBI 454 for my next truck. :eek:
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Well the reduced maint cost on the simple tbi big block will probably pay for the extra fuel the 454 uses and more
 
just to let you guys know i have wiggled a pan outof a 4x4 with the motor in it was a really big PITA but i got her dun think i had to remove oil pump inside of pan and drop both together and putting it back in was another story so i wouldnt recomend trying on a 4x4 unless i just did it all wrong. :mad2:
 
btfarm said:
Just a thought... Can you pull the squirters out and stick a short piece of tube in behind where they insert to act as a restriction orifice or in the entrance of the squirter itself? In any case, If you can pull the pan I'd get a new oil pump and try that.
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The squirters are pressed out of aluminium, I wouldn't mess with trying to restrict them, as if you get it wrong, your pulling the engine again AND if don't restrict them properly and the piece comes out, you'll destroy the crank and bearings.



JiFaire said:
Thanks turbovanman. That answers a couple questions, Justin - you will need to pull the engine to get at the squirters, and you can identify the oil pump by looking at it.

Still doesn't tell you what to do... maybe Mike is right and a new pump will do it, or maybe there's another way to plug the squirts without disassembling things too much. If you have never done much wrenching, you probably don't want to be pulling the crank without some help.
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If he has the larger pump, I seriously doubt its an issue, I've been doing this along time and a weak pump is like winning the lottery, unless its old and worn out from lack of oil changes or a bad air filter. I did try 2 hi volume pumps with NO change, :(

chevyCowboy said:
just to let you guys know i have wiggled a pan outof a 4x4 with the motor in it was a really big PITA but i got her dun think i had to remove oil pump inside of pan and drop both together and putting it back in was another story so i wouldnt recomend trying on a 4x4 unless i just did it all wrong. :mad2:
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Remove the front diff, its cake and once its out, the oil pan takes seconds to drop.
 
ya that makes sence i guess its just the mounting bolts the u joint and the 12 bolts at the cv shatfs that dose sound alot better than what i did
 
I've never seen a close up of the squirters before...but what material is the tube made of? could someone crimp them closed to shut them off?
 
Pepperidge said:
I've never seen a close up of the squirters before...but what material is the tube made of? could someone crimp them closed to shut them off?
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As I mentioned earlier, aluminium, :thumbsup:

Its just pressed into shape, think of a barrel hollowed out with a tip, the tip is drilled out

ak diesel driver said:
what about a screw and plug the squirts?
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I wouldn't risk it, soft aluminium, the potential for brutal carnage exists, :(
 
Looks like Turbine doc answered a few questions in the international block thread...said Justin Reported good oil pressure when he first got the truck...then it went low...so if changing the oil pump is what needs doing can they reach up with some sort of tool an crimp them closed when they drop the pan? or is the crank that much in the way?
 
Personally I would not crimp the squirters off, let 's find out if there is an issue with them 1st, my "at risk" squirter blocks in both my 98's are doing just fine as designed, "issue" purportedly with "squirters" is weakened blocks, that happens when machining, so plugging off the squirters after the machining for them now would resolve just what?

I'm still leaning toward bad/tired oil pump issue since he once had good oil pressure but now doesen't, squirter issues wrong ID or wrong pump used with squirters would have manifested itself when block was first run in, not months later IMO.
 
Pepperidge said:
Looks like Turbine doc answered a few questions in the international block thread...said Justin Reported good oil pressure when he first got the truck...then it went low...so if changing the oil pump is what needs doing can they reach up with some sort of tool an crimp them closed when they drop the pan? or is the crank that much in the way?
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You can't get at them without dropping the crank, they are recessed.


Turbine Doc said:
Personally I would not crimp the squirters off, let 's find out if there is an issue with them 1st, my "at risk" squirter blocks in both my 98's are doing just fine as designed, "issue" purportedly with "squirters" is weakened blocks, that happens when machining, so plugging off the squirters after the machining for them now would resolve just what?

I'm still leaning toward bad/tired oil pump issue since he once had good oil pressure but now doesen't, squirter issues wrong ID or wrong pump used with squirters would have manifested itself when block was first run in, not months later IMO.
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I didn't realize it happened over time so yeah, I agree its not a squirter issue but unless they reused the pump, I'd be leaning towards a bearing issue.
 
btfarm said:
Once the pan is down it would be pretty easy to check some main and rod clearances with plastigage.
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Very true. I think at absolute least, we could get him some firm diagnostic action and a plan with some written direction. Best case we all leave with 2 smoke belching mothers that are good to go.
 
JiFaire said:
If I was gonna do that, I'd be looking at closing off the squirters... there was a thread on here a while ago where a member had problem squirts that dropped his oil pressure to almost zero. It doesn't take much, in the rebuild process, to mess those up.

I'll look for the thread...
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Pepperidge said:
Looks like Turbine doc answered a few questions in the international block thread...said Justin Reported good oil pressure when he first got the truck...then it went low...so if changing the oil pump is what needs doing can they reach up with some sort of tool an crimp them closed when they drop the pan? or is the crank that much in the way?
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Turbine Doc said:
Personally I would not crimp the squirters off, let 's find out if there is an issue with them 1st, my "at risk" squirter blocks in both my 98's are doing just fine as designed, "issue" purportedly with "squirters" is weakened blocks, that happens when machining, so plugging off the squirters after the machining for them now would resolve just what?

I'm still leaning toward bad/tired oil pump issue since he once had good oil pressure but now doesen't, squirter issues wrong ID or wrong pump used with squirters would have manifested itself when block was first run in, not months later IMO.
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I know what you are saying and my suggestion to crimp was only if the block had the correct working oil pump...as others incl TVM have stated that the squirters can be a problem and closing them off could be a solution...one quick question...does having the squirters intact really provide that much of a benefit, do they outweigh the risk when you are having such an issue( if it turns out the pump is ok and correct)...just asking...cause I sure don't have the answers...Lets just hope it was just a weak pump and nothing more...
 
Risk of squirters is a moot point, "problem" is there until block is changed out to a non drilled block, and I'm not really sure squirters are a definative cause of failures, fail mode on the 6.5 has not been proven to be caused on any one design flaw.

My personal experience leads me to believe it is a temperature related issue and if ignored those with squirters may fail in the region where the squirter was drilled, but the fact that one has squirters is not a certainty that it is predisposed to failure. Many 6.2s & 6.5s have had exact failure mechanism/location as the "bad squirter" blocked engines have had with non squirter drilled webbing

Myself I would not plug them, I'm not a big proponent on radical design changes without engineering data to back it up, if there are holes for squirters in the block, my major concern is "hot spot" at location that no longer has complete metal in it from drilling for squirters possibly needing flow thru the casting to cool the webbing as well as cooling piston skirts which could compromise the block even further than the squirters supposedly cause.
 
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