• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Injectors, GP's today, ATT and crossover tomorrow....

Something I did after a little experimenting. Install the rubber cap that goes on the injectors closest to the firewall with the clamp and put it in the socket then screw it in by hand a ways the make sure it threads OK.

When you put the clamp on make sure the part you pinch with your pliers is rotated inward so it does not interfere with the socket.

You have a 50/50 chance of the nipple ending up in an area that won't cross over with your return line. If it's not going to rotate to the position that suits you remove the inj. and change the cap to the other nipple. If you have the threads clean and use anti-seize if you can get the injector within 1/2 turn before you actually torque them.

Be sure to use Hi Temp Anti-Seize on all threads.

Blow the area clean BEFORE removing any parts. If you think you missed some dirt/gunk after you've got the GP and Inj. out blow air through the GP opening and then through the Inj opening.

You can get a 30MM socket at Auto Zone for like $13 that has the hex on top. It makes it nice if you have a ratchet wrench to take them out and install them after the initial loosening. It's a taller socket then needed, but it works OK.
 
Well, the project is on hold for a bit. This weekend was the last of the season for the local ski resort (Mt Shasta) so I took the boys skiing on Saturday. Today it raining like crazy so I'll have to wait for a late afternoon after work to finish up. Still trying to figure out what to do on the mis-match with the downpipe to turbo interface. Cut the brackets and re-weld or just leave as is and take it to the muffler shop and have them do it up on the lift.

Lance
 
Install complete including two pins in my thumb!

Well, just about done with the complete install with a few metal additions to the thumb!

I mentioned in my first post about injuring my thumb while swapping parts out. I waited a week or so until my thumb was really red and puffy before going into the walk in clinic to get it checked out. I was sitting in the exam room when the doc walked in and I knew it was bad when the first thing he said was "Oh, Shet". He had it ex-rayed and I broke the end of my thumb into 3 pieces! He sent me to a hand surgeon who did an outpatient proceedure where he filleted my thumb, re-aligned the bone fragments and put in two steel pins to hold the mess together! I'm on two different antibiotics, one for the thumb, one for the gash on my forehead from my wife telling me "I told you so" many times in terms of going to the doctor! Pics to follow! :)

In the mean time, I took the truck to the muffler shop where they had to cut the downpipe loose, align and re weld. I also had them install the crossover. It was not a direct fit and they had to cut it and weld in a small piece to get it to fit correctly.

Haven't put any miles on except to the muffler shop and back but hope to try it out this weekend.

I do have an issue with the pipe coming from the CDR to the plastic intake plenum. It won't quit reach, do I just get some plastic/rubber hose to extend this?

Lance
 
I mentioned in my first post about injuring my thumb while swapping parts out. I waited a week or so until my thumb was really red and puffy before going into the walk in clinic to get it checked out. I was sitting in the exam room when the doc walked in and I knew it was bad when the first thing he said was "Oh, Shet". He had it ex-rayed and I broke the end of my thumb into 3 pieces! He sent me to a hand surgeon who did an outpatient proceedure where he filleted my thumb, re-aligned the bone fragments and put in two steel pins to hold the mess together! I'm on two different antibiotics, one for the thumb, one for the gash on my forehead from my wife telling me "I told you so" many times in terms of going to the doctor! Pics to follow! "


Man you really didn't want to do that exhaust...did you!!!! :D



And how could you stand having an ATT sitting in your garage that long??????
 
x2! I woulda been thrownin it on as soon as i saw the box on my porch!

Just a quick question on changing injectors. I have never done this and plan on doing it at the begining of the summer. On the rubber lines that you speak of if you have to cut them off do you have to replace them? Just wanting to know what to expect.
 
tanman_2006 said:
x2! I woulda been thrownin it on as soon as i saw the box on my porch!

Just a quick question on changing injectors. I have never done this and plan on doing it at the begining of the summer. On the rubber lines that you speak of if you have to cut them off do you have to replace them? Just wanting to know what to expect.
Click to expand...

Get yourself an install kit that has the new clampless return lines and new copper crush washers.

When removing the factory lines, just pull as hard as you can without snapping the rubber and hold tension for a few seconds until it pops off. Don't bother trying to remove the little clips, they should come with the line. Its a hard pull for sure.
 
Right oh, get an install kit with the new clampless hose.

I waited on the install as I knew injectors, glows, crossover and ATT was going to take a couple days in the driveway. Decent weather makes for sunnier dispositions when working outside!

Lance
 
tanman_2006 said:
x2! I woulda been thrownin it on as soon as i saw the box on my porch!

Just a quick question on changing injectors. I have never done this and plan on doing it at the begining of the summer. On the rubber lines that you speak of if you have to cut them off do you have to replace them? Just wanting to know what to expect.
Click to expand...

Here is what the kit looks like. A plug for the back injector on each side and the a tube to connect the rest of the injectors to each other per side.


http://www.heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1131/
 
5akman said:
Right oh, get an install kit with the new clampless hose.

I waited on the install as I knew injectors, glows, crossover and ATT was going to take a couple days in the driveway. Decent weather makes for sunnier dispositions when working outside!

Lance
Click to expand...

Thats why I am waiting to use my grandpas shop as soon schools out! I am doing injectors, gps, ip, crossover, down pipe, diamond eye exaust, and pulling the turbo to check shaft play (250,000 miles might be wearing on it) I have a low mile GM4 sitting around just in case.

Fun times!
 
Find out if your new injectors come with new copper crush washers, if not you will need 8 of them too.

The Napa ones I bought (Delphi) Came with new, for $65 a piece, but I think the Rockauto ones did not, for $41 bux a piece.
 
If your replacement injectors come with copper seals you can save some funds by not buying the injector install kit.

I went to the local VW, Mercedes repair shop and purchased 6 ft. of return line hose at $2.69 a foot. That's all I needed 'cause the rebuilt inj. came with copper seals.

Spend your $ on high temp anti-seize and use it on inj. gp's, turbo mount nuts.....and anything else that looks rusty and gets hot!
 
Alright, Thanks for all of the help! I will ask about the crush washers but I doubt they come with them. Mine cost $25 each.

I have high temp anti seize so that is covered.

The rubber return lines also sound like a better deal than buying a kit too. Are there different sizes are is there just a standard size?
 
Tanman, the return line hose is 1/8" inside dia. Napa has the hose also. I don't recall the part number, but ask for return line hose and ask to see the page describing it in their book. It will list "diesel fuel return line". I bought 3 ft in there for like $2 p/ft.

If you don't buy the return line "kit" and buy hose by the foot ask the sales folks about the end caps for fuel return lines. If you have an injection repair shop, or tractor repair, diesel repair, they'll have the two end caps you need, and those are usually use the clamps you hear about so much. If you do any business there they'll probably give you the caps and clamps.

If you can not locate the caps in your area you can take a one inch piece of the same hose and insert a short(cut it off if you have to) bolt, screw, welding rod end.....something to plug the end. That's all the cap is!

When you slide the hose on the injector nipple, lube the end of the hose with a squirt of oil, wd 40, or anything to make it easier to slide on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top