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Injectors, GP's today, ATT and crossover tomorrow....

5

5akman

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It was time to install the ever increasing pile of parts gathering in my garage. Pulled the inner fender off the passenger side, pulled the glows, did a compression test and then installed new injectors. Hope to NEVER have to do that again. I followed the directions in the "2hour injector swap" post with no luck. If you have factory return lines with the little clamps, its a PIA no matter what even with the turbo off. Its easy to cut off the old lines but getting the little clamps off took hours...............

Have had an A Team Turbo in the garage since last fall. Pulled the stock turbo off, slicing my thumb right at the cuticle to the bone in the process. The driveway has nice little red spots of blood all over the place. Will install the ATT and Warp Speed cross over tomorrow. Hopefully it will be a shorter day with less blood shed!
 
Good stuff. Got any tips/tricks for the injectors for a beginner like myself? Out of curiosity what did you get for compression?
....and No job is complete until you injure or maim yourself in the process!
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
These 6.5's have been known to bleed their owners.
Click to expand...
That's mostly in the wallet from my experence:eek:):h
I don't even try to take the little clamps off nicely. Grab them with the needle nose and bend to stretch out. Ones that break off I tap a small screwdriver in behind to stretch the clamp. I can have them all off in 15 minutes or less. Then slice the hose with a razor knife or blade at the nipple on the injector. I use a dipico installation kit with the clampless hoses. Accurate diesel has the cheapest price that i've seen on them.:thumbsup:
 
I did the needle nose, utility knife and screwdriver methods but it was still a pain as some of the return nipples were oriented up against the head and it was just flat out tough to get to them.

My injectors and return line kit was from Accurate Diesel.

Chris4521, I'd take the time to remove at least the passenger side inner fender (less than 10 mnutes to remove). The turbo took probably 30-45 minutes to take off which I had to do for the ATT swap anyway. I could not imagine however, being able to get to the injectors or nipples with the turbo in the way! I just used a standard 30mm socket without the flat spots for using an end wrench, worked just fine.

Compression is questionable. Drivers side from front: 300, 270, 270, 300
Passenger side from front: 320, 330, not able to read due to downpipe interference, 320. This was done cold as I had warmed the engine up but by the time I had gathered tools, taken off inner fender, fabbed an adapter for my Harbor Freight diesel compression tester, etc, the engine temps were probably back down to about ambient air temps. I don't know if that makes a difference in the comp test or not. And, perhaps with 168,000 miles, these readings are acceptable?

Lance
 
Those readings are low, but they are close to 10% of each other so it could be partly due to your tester or a cool engine. 380-400 psi would be ideal.
 
Pull up your skirt and give the return lines a 'man sized pull' and the lines will come off with the clamps....at least that's how it has worked for me on the many 6.5's that I have swapped injectors on....maybe if the lines are rotten it won't work???
 
I tried that, cinched up my panties and pulled hard, all I got was a short piece of rubber fuel line! My guess is that the lines/injectors were original and they had lost their integrity.......................... :)

Lance
 
LOL!

In that case, cut the return lines as close to the clamps as possible. The OTC injector socket will fit over top of the injector even with clamps on the return nipples....

--> I do realize that you are already done the project....
 
chrisk1500 said:
LOL!

In that case, cut the return lines as close to the clamps as possible. The OTC injector socket will fit over top of the injector even with clamps on the return nipples....

--> I do realize that you are already done the project....
Click to expand...

this is good info! keep it comin guys ! ;)
 
chrisk1500 said:
Pull up your skirt and give the return lines a 'man sized pull' and the lines will come off with the clamps....at least that's how it has worked for me on the many 6.5's that I have swapped injectors on....maybe if the lines are rotten it won't work???
Click to expand...

I figured it out when I only had 2 left to go..

Pull AS HARD AS POSSIBLE but without it snapping, and then HOLD TENSION for 5-10 seconds until it slides off....

The first 6 I fought and cursed and everything else like you.:thumbsup:
 
I started to install mine,, Decided to do the pain in the arse side first. got that buttoned up, and started the truck, no leaks,, runs,, So I will be doing the Dr side Saturday, and then test drive. then I'll get in here and upload all the pics,, for a pictorial edition of my Injector install!!
 
Pruittx2 said:
I started to install mine,, Decided to do the pain in the arse side first. got that buttoned up, and started the truck, no leaks,, runs,, So I will be doing the Dr side Saturday, and then test drive. then I'll get in here and upload all the pics,, for a pictorial edition of my Injector install!!
Click to expand...


Pictures? We loves pictures...

drarvindr-albums-51-arvind-picture1012-gollum-maquette.jpg
 
Ran into a bit of a glitch today with the ATT install. My down pipe is about 3/8" aft of the interface with the ATT. I tried everything to move it forward to match up but no luck. Not a big deal but will have to cut the hangers loose, move the pipe forward a bit, clamp and reweld.
 
I had to cut my pipe free of the forward hanger to rotate the pipe to mate up. Not a biggy though.
 
Excited to read about your installs!!! How did it go?

Hope your boo-boo didn't delay progress!!!

Spring time is here boyz, people doing mods, economy trying to boom a little. I'm not too far behind.
 
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