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Injector Return Hoses: Looking for the Best.

GM Guy

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Messages
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Hey all,

I recall Warwagon having bad luck with the commonly sourced made in China push on braided return lines, and I am experiencing why he hates them. :(

Previous owner work on the 99 C3500. IDK if they did injectors, or just the loop lines. Injectors are shot, IDK if its the originals giving up, or junk that the PO installed same time as the lines.

Of course it can't be on a local run, it has to be in the middle of Wyoming. Luckily it is not leaking too bad, seems worse at idle (lowest fuel consumption and assuming highest return rates) Under load out on I-80 the fuel economy is not suffering too bad, probably 9 mpg compared to the usual 10.5-11 so rather than mess with it, make it worse, then find out I can't get parts, I am just going to run it and get to the Idaho farm so I at least have a parts runner rig and a cement pad.

SO,

I ask you guys, what does everyone recommend for return lines? I am after quality, not price. I imagine putting the tiny clamps on will be a bitch, but if its the best, I will have no choice but to do it. I would prefer US, Canada, or European (country of quality) lines.

Also, if the clamps are a must, any special pliers to make it suck less? Getting them off the 93 when I did injectors on it, I just used some common Craftsman needle nose pliers. Injectors are getting replaced at the same time, and I imagine I will be pulling the turbo like last time. Glows at the same time of course.

I might have an injector line that has rubbed and is leaking, so I think the intake manifold is coming off anyways.

And of course the J-41550 is in KS, so I will be buying some Kent Moore tools off eBay (Injector socket, GP socket, and line wrench) to leave in Idaho for the next go around, and to help out a buddy 10 miles from the ID farm that just bought a 500 dollar locked up 94 burb (oil cooler lines). :)
 
The clamps ensure the best seal, just a pita.

I've never had problems with Bosch line without clamps, my rigs or the fleet stuff. I only get it from the Benz dealership.
 
Mine were labeled "Made in Germany" and purchased at a stanadyne dealer. I forget I run B99 to *attempt* to pass emissions once a year and what Bio does to hoses in general. Of course there is always that state that mixes in 5% bio for you and no labels...

I got some slightly thicker 1/8 lines at the parts store and they are a major upgraded PIA to use clamps on. The clamps just don't have enough overlap to back them the F off enough for easy install or removal.

Lube the hoses with WD-40 to help install with clamps on and long needle nose pliers. Most of the time I do this with the engine out...

IMO the no-clamp install is outdated info with the BIO making it into our diesel fuel.
 
It has to be rated sae 30r9. Stanadyne's is not last I checked. Mercedes Benz is. They held the patent on making it for the first 7 years it existed, their engineers created it. That's why MB was the only 100% biofuel and methal or ethyl mixed diesel fuel rated car for the first decade.

As for the 5% bio in all diesel now, it was federal law in end of 2014 that said they don't have to announce it anymore. To be 10% acceptable nationwide by 2020 iirc.
 
This might seem ridiculous, but I run urethane with no clamps and change them out every couple years. I've run B20, WMO, kerosene, etc. The urethane seems impervious chemically, but it does age harden (probably due to temp more than age). I used to run the viton lines, but for whatever reason, they always seeped, -even with the little spring clampies..
 
JayTheCPA said:
I wondered why I lost a mile a gallon when the driving style did not change . . .
Click to expand...

There is way more to it than that. The cetane rating can run from 35-70 ~yup as much as double.

The btu range can be 110,00 to 145,000 a huge difference in power per gallon.

The carbon count I've seen in diesel has been plus or minus 20 carbon per chain.

Flashpoint difference of 15 degrees is not unusual.

It's all over the place. That's why the difference in power & mileage. Also why some people will get away with fuel line in one part of the country but not others.

I'm sure several guys out there travel multiple states across the country can tell they get better fuel some places than others. Most people assume it's just old fuel or has a bit of water in it. Most of the time it's the actual make up of the fuel, but without testing it one would never know.

That's why I say when getting fuel line, never look at the price. Just buy the highest rated and move on.
 
I got Tygon fuel line for my return hoses, which seems to be more commonly used for small engines. It is semi-transparent, almost lemon yellow in color. I used it previously on my motor, and with the motor refresh I put on new Tygon, both times without clamps, and no apparent leaks.

You may have to specifically ask for Tygon.

Don
 
How does the Tygon hold up to heat and aging? Does it get hard?

Do you guys have any part numbers or links for the Tygon, Mercedez or any other good quality line?
 
I don't have any long term experience with Tygon. What I had was on the pickup for about 2 to 3 years. It seemed to be holding good when I recently tore down the motor. I replaced it because I was concerned that the Tygon would have stretched enough to not go back on tight afterwards.

Don
 
WarWagon said:
Mine were labeled "Made in Germany" and purchased at a stanadyne dealer. I forget I run B99 to *attempt* to pass emissions once a year and what Bio does to hoses in general. Of course there is always that state that mixes in 5% bio for you and no labels...

I got some slightly thicker 1/8 lines at the parts store and they are a major upgraded PIA to use clamps on. The clamps just don't have enough overlap to back them the F off enough for easy install or removal.

Lube the hoses with WD-40 to help install with clamps on and long needle nose pliers. Most of the time I do this with the engine out...

IMO the no-clamp install is outdated info with the BIO making it into our diesel fuel.
Click to expand...

So you mean that the sellers that sell lines advertising "clampless" are kidding themselves thinking its clampless? Sorry if I am mis-understanding.

____________________________________________________

So Will,

Is the Mercedes line similar in appearance to the factory original line?

is there any online vendors, or do I need to go to a Benz Dealer? If so, what is the part number? do you buy it in bulk? luckily I am in Idaho, so a Benz dealer is just 90 miles away in Boise. way better than Denver or Wichita if I was in KS.

Where does a guy get the little clamps?
 
Mercedes is way different than the GM. I only buy mine at the dealer. I've bought some online that said it was Bosch, but was way sucky. It's not like it's pretty noted on the hose. No clue on part number.
 
Do you mean Angelofishes ? I have wondered if he was a forum member somewhere. He seems to usually keep nicer stuff than a lot of ebay stores.
 
GM Guy said:
So you mean that the sellers that sell lines advertising "clampless" are kidding themselves thinking its clampless? Sorry if I am mis-understanding.

____________________________________________________

So Will,

Is the Mercedes line similar in appearance to the factory original line?

is there any online vendors, or do I need to go to a Benz Dealer? If so, what is the part number? do you buy it in bulk? luckily I am in Idaho, so a Benz dealer is just 90 miles away in Boise. way better than Denver or Wichita if I was in KS.

Where does a guy get the little clamps?
Click to expand...

I am saying hoses without clamps have a tendency to leak air and/or fuel. Air leaks mean hard starts after sitting. Fuel leaks are just that. IMO clampless lines are a shortcut from the original design. I find the hoses shrink some like heat shrink tubing by design or from bio or underhood temps. This causes the hoses to become 'loose' from cracking on the return nipple and leak there. The rest of the hose is done and can't be reused by cutting a small section off. Maybe a better quality hose that can take whatever is killing them would help. I am not the only one with this issue as others have posted about leaks as well.

Clamps with P/N's.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/part-s-for-6-5.629/page-2#post-492566
 
I saw the 3.5 mm hose on ebay and thought it looked good. Also saw some 3.2 mm and was like are there 2 sizes that close????

I guess it depends on climate and fuel source. I haven't had any leaks from my push on hose at the injectors. Have had hose at the IP inlet fail with age when I plumbed in my fuel pressure guage. I think I bought return lines from heath or diapco.
 
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